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Sweet D2
03-18-2013, 05:56 AM
I need to reduce tension on my right track but adjusting nuts and bolt have heavy wire on them. Can anyone tell me what wire may be for prior to my removing with torch?Thx3535735358
Wire wraps around adjusting bolt and then is tied down under top clamp nut.
thx

drujinin
03-18-2013, 08:59 AM
Go ahead and cut it off.
Its hard to guess why its on there as it isn't strong enough to hold anything there.
Loosen those clamping bolts and squirt lots of "Loose Juice" in the grooves in the adjuster nut to make it turn easier.

old-iron-habit
03-18-2013, 11:49 AM
Forty years ago we had a D2 that had tight wound wire wrapped like you described. I had forgot about it until you prompted my memory. Underneath the wire we found a rag wrapped around the nut and threads with grease inside of that. I hope you are so lucky. Ours adjusted easily after wiping some greese out of the way. We set it back the same way.

dpendzic
03-18-2013, 12:14 PM
I wrap all my track adjusters,screw thread and/or hydraulic rod with grease and a rag. Seems to prevent rust and corrosion.I have no idea on that wire.That adjuster looks 100% better than mine did--I ended up putting on two nuts to hold the idler out.

Kelly
03-18-2013, 12:49 PM
I would have to guess that the threads on the nut/bolt are striped and it’s was/is to hold the nut in place. But, that’s just a guess.

Also it looks to me at least, that the adjustment is out as far as it will go, and not being able to see the track frame and idler it’s hard to tell about the adjustment, but! Having to “reduce tension on my right track” leaves a question also…is the tension bolt broken?

Wrapping an old grease/oily rag around the tension bolt threads is an old trick, but a good one.

Kelly

Sweet D2
03-18-2013, 11:24 PM
Thanks for the great feedback.
I will take your advice and next I have to explore what it means that the tension bolt may be broken.
The track on the right side of my tractor is very flat with no sag inbetween idler roller and main sprokets.
On left side i have the prescribed 1-1/2" sag.
Thanks again.

drujinin
03-19-2013, 08:43 AM
Inside the spring that bolt rusts away and breaks no longer holding the spring in the proper position but allows the spring to go to full tension on the idler.
Its easier to see in the manual than to explain it.
Do a Search on D4's and or D2's with this part broken.

I like the idea of the greasy/oily rag as cleaning that nut and bolt, then squirting it with loose juice is a pain!

dpendzic
03-19-2013, 08:48 AM
The track adjusting bolt is under tension in the spring area when it is used to hold the recoil spring in a compressed condition.
Otherwise it is in compression forward of the spring when holding the idler out into position.
At any rate to produce more sag in that track back off the adjusting nuts and the idler should move back.

ccjersey
03-19-2013, 09:06 AM
If you measure the length of the large recoil springs on each side of your tractor, they should be held to a maximum length of 17 1/16" by the spring bolt. The process of dealing with one of these that has broken isn't simple because there is a lot of potential energy in that spring, just waiting to kill or maim someone.

In general, you have two ways to handle it, the simplest way is to heat the coils of the spring with a torch so it relaxes and you can break the track, replace the spring and broken bolt, tensioner etc. Or you can put a pin between the track and the top side of the sprocket and back up until the spring is compressed to approximately the correct length, lock the brake to hold the tractor there and then weld bars between the end plates of the spring to hold it captive. Then drive the tractor forward to release the tension on the track so you can break it and remove the spring. The spring bolt can then be replaced and the spring tensioned to the correct length after the restraining bars are cut off. The spring with the restraining bars is about like a bomb, so careful handling and respect for it's ability to cause grievous injury should be formost in the mind of anyone near it.

I've got one on a D6 that I have dealt with by welding a stop on the track frame to keep it at the correct length, but have had to replace my stop once already, the spring does hammer against it as you use the tractor.

Kelly
03-20-2013, 03:54 PM
If you measure the length of the large recoil springs on each side of your tractor, they should be held to a maximum length of 17 1/16" by the spring bolt. The process of dealing with one of these that has broken isn't simple because there is a lot of potential energy in that spring, just waiting to kill or maim someone.

Sweet D2,

Then the D2 recoil spring is assembled, to the assembled length of 17 1/6” it has as an assembled load pressure of 5,400 lbs., more than an enough to cause brutal body jury, if unlashed. So play it safe.

Kelly

Sweet D2
03-21-2013, 12:08 AM
Thanks for the advice and warnings.
I will remove the spring covers and measure both springs.
But I bet the bolt in question is broke as Kelly has guessed.
It seems like the idler is fully extended.
If the bolt is broken, i will have to let a shop deal with that for me; don't have the tools.
If needed, that repair will have to occur right after the parade at Tulare next month though.
Can't wait and thanks again.

dpendzic
03-21-2013, 04:01 PM
If it was me I would still try to slack off the adjusting nut. If the rod is broken inside the spring slacking off will let the spring expand to its no load condition if there is enough movement available. Then it could be removed, a new bolt installed and compressed back to the 17 inch dimension. I always try the cheapest solution first! :lol: