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Neil
11-28-2014, 08:58 PM
Team,
can someone lend me this piece (or let me know if there's an easy way to procure it) - I need the hex tool to remove the pre combustion chambers from the J-series cylinder head. The machinist says we need to plane the head so we need to pull the chambers.
I'll pay all shipping etc.
Cheers,
Neil

Lance Jones
11-28-2014, 09:12 PM
Hi Neil I have one here in Ozz , but postage Would Kill You . Get a Hex socket the Right Size and Cut a piece out the Side so it Fits nice may need to Cut Socket and Lengthen it ,just can't remember .LJ

gauntjoh
11-29-2014, 06:37 AM
Hi Neil I have one here in Ozz , but postage Would Kill You . Get a Hex socket the Right Size and Cut a piece out the Side so it Fits nice may need to Cut Socket and Lengthen it ,just can't remember .LJ

Hi Lance,
Neil is looking for the tool to extract the precombustion chambers and I think what you refer to is making a tool to remove the injectors...

Neil, I'm afraid I can't help you, if I had one of these, the postage from the UK would be very expensive also.
Best Regards, John

Old Magnet
11-29-2014, 11:40 AM
Thought we've been through this before....Just make one up using a 7/8" grade 8 bolt (1-5/16" head) with a few stacked nuts welded together.

Lance Jones
11-29-2014, 11:46 AM
John You are right on there , I must have had a Seniors moment there ,I borrowed a Tool to do one some time ago . A multi splined Bolt Type Tool , But I can't recall Tool Number , sure someone will Chime in with That No. Should still be available from Cat . You will need to Replace the O-ring seal which will be available from Cat . LJ

Neil
11-29-2014, 12:15 PM
Thought we've been through this before....Just make one up using a 7/8" grade 8 bolt (1-5/16" head) with a few stacked nuts welded together.

That's what I'm going to do but the reason I asked is I'd prefer to use the tool if it was easily available. Have ordered a 2 1/2" long coupling nut and a grade 8 capscrew. I think the nut may even be long enough by itself because with the lower edge even with the lower edge of the hex inside the chamber, the nut will protrude 1", which "should" be enough for a socket and rattle gun

Old Magnet
11-29-2014, 12:16 PM
LJ,
Wrong again, takes this tool for the 3-3/4" bore D2.

Old Magnet
11-29-2014, 12:30 PM
That's what I'm going to do but the reason I asked is I'd prefer to use the tool if it was easily available. Have ordered a 2 1/2" long coupling nut and a grade 8 capscrew. I think the nut may even be long enough by itself because with the lower edge even with the lower edge of the hex inside the chamber, the nut will protrude 1", which "should" be enough for a socket and rattle gun

$45.00 for a grade 8 coupling nut seems a little rich to me.

Neil
11-29-2014, 10:38 PM
Such is life...

Texasbest
11-30-2014, 09:25 PM
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Here is the tool I made. I ended up having to pull the head as the injectors & precups were TIGHT in there! Heads on the ground, still have 1 injector & 2 precups in it. I ended up rounding the edge of the nut on the tool and the internal teeth inside of # 2 precup before pulling head. Motor was pressurizing the cooling system. #2 & 3 holes look like this. I'm afraid this head may be cracked.

Neil
12-01-2014, 07:58 PM
I'm going to have the machinist put the chambers through a heat/cool cycle just to loosen things up and then spray some Kroil on it and scrape any thread that protrudes as this head is gold - I've ordered new guides, seats, valves, springs, keepers, I'll check the chambers once they're out to see if I want to swap them out too - probably will, then the head will be like new

Texasbest
12-01-2014, 08:50 PM
When you get it all done why don't you send it on down to me...:whistle: 👍

Neil
12-02-2014, 09:53 PM
Heh heh, well I am keeping the two others that I have on the off chance that I might spring to fix them one day : )

Newbie
12-03-2014, 02:46 AM
G'Day Gents,

Can someone give me the hex sizes, and their respcetive lengths, for the removal tool that Old Magnet posted? I think I will whip one up just in case I need to change out my combustion chambers when I remove the head....


Cheers,

Phill.

Neil
12-03-2014, 07:19 AM
For the part that engages into the chamber, 1 5/16" across the flats of the hex. The other end is 1 1/2" across the flats but as noted, you could just make the whole thing 1 5/16". Tool is 4" long. For mine, I'm considering adding round piece that fits snugly into the top part of the chamber to prevent the tool from canting over.

Texasbest
12-03-2014, 09:36 AM
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I dug around through my bolts this morning and came up w/ this genuine Cat bolt & nut. Gonna make a new one.

Old Magnet
12-03-2014, 10:58 AM
Might consider a bolt that is fully threaded with added nut to get full purchase on the chamber.

Neil
12-03-2014, 10:15 PM
The long nut arrived in the mail today so naturally I slipped it into the cylinder head that just happened to be sitting nice and warm in the mud room, underneath a bridle, a pair of knee high black boots, a piece of celery, and some swimming goggles. Bottoming out, it still sticks out 3/4" so I don't think I need to deploy the bolt that I got with it. I'll take it down somewhere that has a 3/4 rattle gun and give it a shot.

Texasbest
12-03-2014, 11:08 PM
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Old Magnet thanks for the pointer. The first one I built I had double nuts. I left a gap & welded between and at each end. The lower nut started to round the edge where it engaged. It was still below the welded center section. I think this nut being longer and hardened should be ok. Do you see a problem with it if I plug weld the bottom and around the top? May weld the washer on as it just sets perfect in the countersunk champfer at the top of the precup.

Old Magnet
12-04-2014, 01:40 AM
I don't see any reason why you couldn't plug weld the nut. I was thinking you would be putting the bolt head end into the chamber but works either way.