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7mileranch
12-10-2014, 12:26 PM
Have two top rollers shot. They are pressed on, ordering replacements. Can someone help me with the best way to do this job. Thanks

Old Magnet
12-10-2014, 01:30 PM
What type rollers are you planning to use? Original grease type or life time lubed?.

7mileranch
12-10-2014, 03:16 PM
What type rollers are you planning to use? Original grease type or life time lubed?.

Not sure dealing with the guy right now. Found the greaser in the back of the shop buried in some stuff for the rollers. 5b3581 I believe is the number that is on there right now. The greasable ones

Woody
12-10-2014, 03:31 PM
Old maganet makes a good point on whcih type of roller your going to repalce with. For my money I would repalce it with the life time lube. In order to do that you will need to either repalce the roller stand or you will need to order a weld on addapter from Henderson Manufacturing. The life time lube is a slightly larger roller, and you will not have to grease or lube it. The roller comes with the shaft attached and it is held on the new stand with a a clamp type arrangement that works very well. The newer D6B and D5's all use this type of top roller. You can buy alll the updated stuff from CAT just be prepared to fork out some money.

Aftter removing the end cap on the old roller there is a 3/8 bolt in the end of the roller shaft with a lock tap on it. Once that is removed you should be able to pull the old roller shell off the shaft. I would also make sure that you dont have a bad shaft. If that is the case and you want to use the old style rollers you will need to take the roller stand to a machine shop have them press out the old shaft and replace it with one that is up to spec.

Woody

7mileranch
12-10-2014, 03:38 PM
Old maganet makes a good point on whcih type of roller your going to repalce with. For my money I would repalce it with the life time lube. In order to do that you will need to either repalce the roller stand or you will need to order a weld on addapter from Henderson Manufacturing. The life time lube is a slightly larger roller, and you will not have to grease or lube it. The roller comes with the shaft attached and it is held on the new stand with a a clamp type arrangement that works very well. The newer D6B and D5's all use this type of top roller. You can buy alll the updated stuff from CAT just be prepared to fork out some money.

Aftter removing the end cap on the old roller there is a 3/8 bolt in the end of the roller shaft with a lock tap on it. Once that is removed you should be able to pull the old roller shell off the shaft. I would also make sure that you dont have a bad shaft. If that is the case and you want to use the old style rollers you will need to take the roller stand to a machine shop have them press out the old shaft and replace it with one that is up to spec.

Woody

thank you very much

Old Magnet
12-10-2014, 04:59 PM
Yup, Woody is on to it.....but wait!!!.....there's more LOL
Job usually goes to hell when you unbolt the stand which uses fine thread cap screws and usually one or more strip out requiring a helicoil job. If you do that go to coarse thread. Cobblers will weld the stand to the frame.

The shaft bore in the roller stand does not fit the lifetime type shaft. (slightly larger) That's where the Henderson conversion comes in.
All new roller stands to fit lifetime type are also available.
Cobblers split/torch the old stands and spread the bore to fit and then weld up the works. They also ditch the two dowels that hold the inner race from rotating.

Pressing the old/new grease type shaft takes a pretty good press...up to about 75 ton.

7mileranch
12-10-2014, 06:47 PM
Yup, Woody is on to it.....but wait!!!.....there's more LOL
Job usually goes to hell when you unbolt the stand which uses fine thread cap screws and usually one or more strip out requiring a helicoil job. If you do that go to coarse thread. Cobblers will weld the stand to the frame.

The shaft bore in the roller stand does not fit the lifetime type shaft. (slightly larger) That's where the Henderson conversion comes in.
All new roller stands to fit lifetime type are also available.
Cobblers split/torch the old stands and spread the bore to fit and then weld up the works. They also ditch the two dowels that hold the inner race from rotating.

Pressing the old/new grease type shaft takes a pretty good press...up to about 75 ton.

Thanks for the help appreciate it

rjh-md
12-10-2014, 08:02 PM
If your going to use the grease type ,and you pull the old roller off the shaft and find that its wore bad on the top because of down pressure of the track and roller on the top of the shaft .You can save a couple of dollars by removing the stand and have the shaft pressed out and turned 180 degrees .This sets a new ware surface on the shaft and roller bushings ,and the worn slde of the shaft will be turned down Saving cost of 1 to 4 shafts

OzDozer
12-10-2014, 08:14 PM
The later model lifetime carrier rollers utilise two taper roller bearings instead of bronze bushings.
This is a simpler and superior setup and these rollers have virtually no rolling resistance, thus improving "power to the ground".

Carrier rollers often suffer from flat spots because they stop turning due to dirt buildup, due to lazy operators who don't keep the area around them clean.
Alway keep a shovel handy and shovel mud away from carrier rollers when working in muddy soils, to ensure they keep turning.

Another point to be aware of, if re-using carrier roller shafts, is that they are often bent downwards due to excessive track pressure.
Always check carrier roller shafts for bends before re-using.

7mileranch
12-10-2014, 08:54 PM
those are some good options. thanks for the help. Going to do some pricing tomorrow, see what my options are.

OzDozer
12-10-2014, 09:03 PM
Don't forget, when installing carrier rollers, to run a string line between the centre of the sprocket and the centre of the front idler and centralise your carrier rollers so they are in correct alignment with the track.
This is to ensure you don't get unnecessary roller flange and rail wear that is created by misalignment. It's also important to check that the front idler is running in correct alignment.
Front idlers can become misaligned vertically and longitudinally, and this increases undercarriage wear and costs you extra fuel and lost power to the ground.
Vertical misalignment can come about via worn idler guides, and longitudinal misalignment can come about via a bent idler pushrod.

Ray54
12-11-2014, 08:27 PM
Some years ago Berco made life time rollers that had a shaft the right size to be pressed into the original towers.I looked for more of them and Berco had run out,several dealers for them said more where come but didn't know when.So check with after market track dealers as well as used parts dealers.Cat did have all the pieces to change to what was current for D5 but was very pricey.Regal had some new old stock Cat grease type at a very good price so that is what I used.