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outbackrider
02-17-2016, 07:42 PM
Planning on looking at a mid 50's D2 5U.

The unit has a Toolbar Blade that is not attached. Is there anyway to determine if the hydraulic pump is working/or will work?
I don't know the story of why the blade is not attached.

I have been wanting a D2 for many years, been a lurker here for about 2 years.

I don't mind having to turn some wrenches, most things I buy...I end up having to fix. But I don't want to buy something
that is going to take too much effort to turn into a worker.

Any suggestions?

Thanks,
OR

7U1216
02-17-2016, 11:35 PM
Take pictures like shes lady gaga and youre paparazzi....

Then show us pictures...

Then buy it so we can find out if the hydraulics work...

cheshire cat
02-18-2016, 12:56 AM
My guess would be unless its been full of water ,dirt or both or run without oil , they are a simple sort of thing
so would think there is a fair chance its OK or would be repairable..

dpendzic
02-18-2016, 08:22 AM
are the hydraulic cylinders hooked up to the lines? or is the blade and cylinders close by that you could hook it up temporarily to check it out?

outbackrider
02-18-2016, 01:04 PM
Thanks for the reply's. Once I get a set of good photos, I will post them for some feedback from
the collective wisdom on this Board.

Once I see it, I will check the dipstick/sump to see what it looks like with a flashlight?

The cylinders are nearby, but based on the condition of the hyd hoses, not sure if I will
be able to hook them up...but that is a good idea. I think the hoses have some kind
of early style quick connect.

Thanks again.
OR

Art From De Leon
02-18-2016, 06:39 PM
Once you see if there is any oil in the reservoir, why not take a hose and secure it in a bucket, and see if anything comes out, when you work the valve.

Or, loop a hose between the two outlets and you should see the hose twitch, or feel the vibrations as fluid runs thru it.

restore49
02-18-2016, 06:56 PM
If you have always wanted one - just buy it - the hydraulics will work itself out - not all that difficult to get working and may not be the reason they stopped using.

old-iron-habit
02-18-2016, 08:51 PM
Planning on looking at a mid 50's D2 5U.

The unit has a Toolbar Blade that is not attached. Is there anyway to determine if the hydraulic pump is working/or will work?
I don't know the story of why the blade is not attached.

I have been wanting a D2 for many years, been a lurker here for about 2 years.

I don't mind having to turn some wrenches, most things I buy...I end up having to fix. But I don't want to buy something
that is going to take too much effort to turn into a worker.

Any suggestions?

Thanks,
OR

If it has tracks it will take some effort and (usually) more than just some effort. Now and every time you use it. Thats what makes it all worthwhile. Its a huge satisfaction when it runs and works like it should. If you are looking for "not to much" effort you are probably dreaming and going to be dissapointed especially if it has been setting for a while. The good thing is there are lots of folks with yellow fever on this site that are very knowledgeable and willing to give freely of there vast experiance and knowledge. Good luck.

drujinin
02-19-2016, 06:42 AM
I wouldn't worry too much about the hydraulic pump! Use the SEARCH function here to glean info on D2/D4 pumps and you'll find lots of troubleshooting Info! I'd be more worried that the Steering Clutches are not froze up! This WILL give you a bigger headache! :sad:

outbackrider
02-19-2016, 01:57 PM
Thanks for all of the input...I do appreciate it. I have yet to see the machine and
am working out those details.

I have been trying to read up on the 41 and 44 style pumps. I'm just used to the
individual pump/hydraulic tank/valve body setup. Seeing the 41's and the 44's they look
relatively simple, but having the support of the ACMOC team strengthens my confidence
in taking this unit on.

The machine supposedly runs (pull start), but the pony needs mag work...sounds familiar.
I asked about turning and the owner stated that he thought that it turned fine....so when
I look and test it out...I believe I am looking for the main clutch to "snap" for engagement and
for the steering clutches to disengage enough for the crawler to turn...without having to engage
the brakes....correct? If I want to "turn on a dime" then I could also engage the brake on the side
the clutch is pulled in....I hate to admit...but Yellow Fever is contagious...but it sure is fun. I can't
get enough of reading about and viewing these machines...

Thanks,
OR

cheshire cat
02-19-2016, 04:33 PM
Thanks for all of the input...I do appreciate it. I have yet to see the machine and
am working out those details.

I have been trying to read up on the 41 and 44 style pumps. I'm just used to the
individual pump/hydraulic tank/valve body setup. Seeing the 41's and the 44's they look
relatively simple, but having the support of the ACMOC team strengthens my confidence
in taking this unit on.

The machine supposedly runs (pull start), but the pony needs mag work...sounds familiar.
I asked about turning and the owner stated that he thought that it turned fine....so when
I look and test it out...I believe I am looking for the main clutch to "snap" for engagement and
for the steering clutches to disengage enough for the crawler to turn...without having to engage
the brakes....correct? If I want to "turn on a dime" then I could also engage the brake on the side
the clutch is pulled in....I hate to admit...but Yellow Fever is contagious...but it sure is fun. I can't
get enough of reading about and viewing these machines...

Thanks,
OR

Unless you are pulling something you would need to use the brakes to steer , if you have it in gear and the main clutch engaged pulling the steering levers should stop the tractor, the main clutch should snap over centre and stay engaged however sometimes they just need a simple adjustment , the most difficult job can be the steering clutches if they don't disingage as you need to remove the tracks and pull the final drive units to gain access...