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View Full Version : Cat High Ten Runs And Drives...but



Catmatt
12-27-2007, 06:49 AM
YEsterday my brother and I were working on our completely rebuilt high ten and had it started for the second time. This time was different as We have the tracks mounted so the machine can now move! One problem

The tractor runs great with the clutch pedal out (engaged). However, when the clucth pedal is pressed to disengage the clutch to engage or switch gears, I can hear the engine struggle a little bit as it is underload. The machine drives really strong when in gear.

My thoughts- The clutch is not totally disengaging? Should I back off the nuts on the flywheel that compress those springs? My clutch brake is not adjusted to tight as this problem occured even with the clutch brake not fastened. I believe there is also adjustment on the clutch pedal too?

I will post another post about the throttle linkages- what a pain!

Matt

catrjw
12-27-2007, 08:24 AM
Matt , Did you have the clutch relined? A freind of mine had his Fifteen clutch relined and had the same problem. Turns out they made the lining too thick. Maybe your problem ,but I hope not. Rick catrjw@aol.com

Catmatt
12-27-2007, 09:09 AM
I did not have the clutch relined, however I did use a good used one I had. However if the clutch was too thick, wouldn't that give me problems disengaging the clutch, as in the tractor will not stop moving? The clutch disengages nice

WyoCat
12-27-2007, 10:04 AM
Matt, If there was a slight drag on the main clutch due to thickness problems or something similar, your clutch brake might still be able to stop it. There is a lot of leverage with the leg through the pedal. I would start it up again and start to release the pedal (start to engage the clutch) just to the point that the clutch brake was not making contact again. If it grinds while going into gear then the main clutch is dragging for some reason. There should be a small window where niether clutch (main and clutch brake) should be making contact and this should be mid pedal but slightly closer to the top. Hope this helps.

Neil
12-27-2007, 11:56 AM
If the clutch or pilot bearing isn't dragging and making it hard to get into / out of gear, then it's probably your thrust bearing. It's probably making some noise too right? (and the clutch pedal seems to pulsate or throb?). My 22 does the same thing and when I strip it down (yeah, right), the clutch lining, pilot bearing and thrust bearing will all be replaced, and the flywheel will be skimmed. Those tasks should be considered standard practice when doing clutch work if you find it at all inconvenient to pull the tractor apart.

Cheers,
Neil.

Catmatt
12-27-2007, 12:42 PM
Neil,

The pilot and thrust bearings were replaced and lubricated and there is no noise or pulsating/throbbing. Actually, every bearing in the machine was replaced with new ones. The flywheel was also cleaned up. The gears shift easy with little to no grinding of the gears. That is why I am confused.

If anyone knows, can you overtighten the nuts that go on the studs on the flywheel which compress the springs? I was told to tighten them till the nut runs out of thread on the stud. That is where I think my problem is, however I cannot understand/visulize what is going on.

What I am going to try and do this weekend is something I have not done ever. I am going to take a video of the tractor running and then engage the clutch and disengage so you guys can see first hand what is going on.

WyoCat
12-27-2007, 02:12 PM
Matt, Doing what I mentioned above will tell you if it is the clutch disc or not. If it is, you narowed it down and can see what is causing the disc to drag.

2HIGHTEN
12-27-2007, 09:18 PM
If the springs on the clutch are uneven in pressure and the plate doesn't pull away straight it will bind, also if the bolts the plate rides on are tight in the plate making pull at an angle it will cause this.
With engine not running . Remove inspection cover and hold clutc pedal two thirds down take a screw driver and see if the clutc disc is free before the brake contacts the surface. This is sometimes a troublsome adjustment to get the frist try.
Good luck Ron Meeder

Catmatt
12-29-2007, 04:01 PM
I just posted a video on you tube showing the tractor running and disengaging the clutch. Made some minor adjustments and ran the tractor some more, and the problem seems to be going away. The tractor still only has less than 1 hour on it since totally rebuild and has been driven less than 500 feet, that is back and forth many times in a thirty foot section of the shop.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X8wM1C0pUU0

More videos to follow in the future as I got a Flip video camcorder for xmas and it is the coolest thing- easy to use and great quality!

edb
12-29-2007, 07:02 PM
Hi Matt,
enjoyed your videos, nice looking hi-ten and assistant.
Seems to me that the engine is hunting--surging-- in RPM's on the governor when unloaded, disengaging the clutch always puts a little extra load on the crankshaft and clutch throw out bearings, this in turn would load the engine just enough to steady out the governor and lessen the hunting and make it seem that the engine has slowed down, due to it now running smoother and threfore sound quieter in the exhaust.
This can be heard in the video when I listened to it a couple of times. So maybe a little bit more tuning of timing, valve clearances, and carby settings as the engine beds in will get you there. Have never seen a Ten let alone heard one run, it sure sounds like a double pony engine--crackly exhaust--they are half a Ten, Fifteen or Twenty engine depending on the Diesel they are fitted to.
I seem to get the incling that you painted the clutch face of the flywheel, if this is so the paint will become sticky when warm and cause drag, but you did say that it does it with the clutch brake disconnected so this may not be the case--I stand to be corrected on this point.
Hope this helps.
Cheers,
Eddie B.