View Full Version : need D6600 parts and information

01-09-2007, 04:12 PM
Well I got the stuck sleeve out:), thanks for all the good suggestions!!
I remember seeing on previous posts a supplier for sleevews that was very reasonablly priced. Does anybody have the name and phone number?
I also need torque specs for head bolts (has large bolts and small bolts) and rod bolts.
Should I replace the pre-cumbstion chambers (I think thats what they're called) in the head? They look kind of rusty. I recall reading on one of the posts that it's a good idea while you have the head off. How do you remove them? I have a servicemans manual for early '40's D6 that show the 6 cyl. It talks about removing a set screw and then screwing it out of the head. I can't find any set screw on the head, so it must be different. Screwing the chamber out of the head sound easier said than done:eek:
I sure appreciate all of the help you guys hand out so freely, it sure helps us greenhorns!!:D

Old Magnet
01-09-2007, 06:37 PM
Hi beaver-flat,
The D6600 precom chambers were pressed/driven in. and yes it would be a good idea to replace them if you can get them.
I believe the source mentioned for the liners was www.regalcorp.com.
Sorry I don't have the torque specs for the D6600.
Good to hear you were successful with the sleeve pulling.

01-10-2007, 05:43 PM
The Cat P/N for the liners is 2B3712. that converts to a newer number, 8N5676, which is $189.17ea list from cat, and only $47.74ea from Regal, and weigh 31.3lbs ea(for shipping purposes) They seem to have enough, as I checked for 6 of them to be safe, and they didnt tell me there werent enough. So you might call Reno or the other states if they are closer. CHeck the website for their locations.


01-11-2007, 01:23 PM
thanks Matt,
Have you decided to overhaul the engine in your grader?

01-11-2007, 04:01 PM
ok, I've got the liners and seals coming. Question on the rings, I though that the D8800 and D6600 were the same. My pistons have 1-3/16 and 3-5/32 comp rings and 2-1/4 oil rings. This is the line from the Hastings catelogue--D7, RD7, D8800, D17000 8 Cyl. Late type oil cooled 4 Ring Piston (Sleeved Engine) 5 3/4 4 2C7633
(2 Cyl.) 2 - 3/16
4 - 5/32 2 - 1/4
The 2 cyl I assume means you would need two kits for a D8800. Now, either the D8800 has 6 comp rings or??? Doesn't make any sense to me :confused:
Does anybody have the crankshaft specs??

01-11-2007, 04:05 PM
I think I just figured it out, the late D8800 must have a total of 4 rings, 3 comp and 1 oil. To make this work for my engine, I would need 3 kits. The bore dia is the same, would the rings be the same just more of them???

01-11-2007, 05:00 PM
I don,t have a parts book to check on the rings on them but I know that I have rebuilt lots of the older D7s & D17000s etc. & they have a ring below the piston pins toward the lower part of the skirt.Later pistons went to the 4 ring piston & none below the piston pin.The early 1100 series V8 engines only had a two ring piston in them.

01-11-2007, 05:26 PM
Yes, I've got it upside down in the shop now. Trying to find time. You need any parts? I found another grade with the d6600 engine.


01-11-2007, 05:37 PM
Specifications from the 5-3/4 bore 6cyl Serviceman's Reference Book:

Main: 3.749-3.75" Dia aluminuim bearings .004/.0085 clearance .015 Max

Connecting rod: 3.624/3.625 dia, max wear .009, max out of round .007


01-11-2007, 06:43 PM
thanks Matt
Have you already pulled the sleeves? If not my homemade puller works pretty good and you can borrow it if you want. Have you sourced rings yet?
I do need a few parts, will let you know when I get a little further along. Are you still getting the RD6 from Missouri?

01-11-2007, 08:00 PM

Still getting the dozer. Have not pulled the sleeves, the pistons are still stuck in them.lol. Have not sourced out rings yet. Appears your the guina pig there. Been looking in the same places though.
Might have to come see your operation soon.


01-11-2007, 08:41 PM
your welcome anytime...I have saturday-sunday days through first of Feb, then back to tues-wed-thurs days off. PM me when you want to come so I can clean up the shop :D
I soaked my engine in penetrating oil for couple of weeks, then disconnected the rods, moved the crank out of the way, and used a 4X4 peice of oak and a 2 lb hammer. Piston came out easier than I thought it would. Sounds like yours is stuck tighter than mine was though.