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driggars
01-23-2007, 08:42 PM
can someone tell me the model number of the engines are in old cat 955K track loaders?
I have been looking for a parts manual for one.
Clint D

Old Magnet
01-23-2007, 09:04 PM
I believe the entire 955k series used the D330T engine. The US production being 115hp.

driggars
01-23-2007, 09:24 PM
Thanks, do you know where I might find a parts manual for it?
Clint

84WD10
01-23-2007, 09:34 PM
Hello Driggars,
I note that you are asking what "CAT" engine the old "955" traxcavators used, the first model "955" traxcavator, Series "12A" used the "D315" engine, which was basically the same engine used in the 7U Series "D4" with a H.P. increase. I beleive that the next "955" 60A Series used the then new engine , the "D330" turbocharged engine.
The first ever "CAT" built Traxcavator, the model No 6 Shovel which was built on a redesigned "9U" Series "D6" tractor chassis with many major changes, this tractor the Series "10A" was followed by the "12A", then the "955".

If you can give the exact model, then the exact engine data can be given.

Sincere regards

Alan T. Lewis
Christchurch
NEW ZEALAND

Old Magnet
01-23-2007, 09:44 PM
You can get them from Cat Legendary Literature Services
http://www.cat.com/cda/layout?m=90800&x=7

The Cat stuff is excellent repro but pricey. At least check the list for the correct form number for the manual then you could also check ebay and ebay vendors.
They made a lot of different models of the 955K.

Avoid the "Jensales" repros, they are very poor copies.

driggars
01-23-2007, 10:28 PM
Alan
The only numbers that are recognizable is a serial number on the engine, which is the same as the tractor ser#

61H1659

Clint

rusted
01-24-2007, 01:28 AM
Clint, OM's info is correct...the 955K is powered by the D330T. As far as a parts manual is concerned the ebay advice is also good...there weren't many 61H series machines built, but a parts manual for 48H, 53H, or 31J would also be suitable as they are listed as equivalent to 61H in Cat literature.

driggars
01-24-2007, 08:31 AM
Rusted

thanks! that is just what I need, a confirmation. I to found out last night that there were not many references to the 61H series , seen lots of 60A, but I was thinking the 60A was closer to matching the 955H series.

I see some D330 manuals on ebey but no D330T's I would assume the D330 didnt have a turbo?

Clint

driggars
01-24-2007, 01:15 PM
OK, thanks for the help so far, now I have one more question if someone can answer. I need to know the head bolt torque setting for this motor? anyone know?
Clint

Old Magnet
01-24-2007, 01:40 PM
From the 955 60A1-up Service Manual for the D330T

driggars
01-24-2007, 01:45 PM
OLD MAGNET
thanks so much, and quick! I take bacl everything I ever said bad abot you, ;) Just kidding.

That is exactly what I needed

Clint

driggars
01-25-2007, 03:04 PM
Thanks guys for al your help, I fired the engine off today and it purrs like a kitten sucking mommies tit.

Clint
PS: I also have a parts manual on its way

driggars
06-21-2007, 12:09 PM
OK, thanks for the help so far, now I have one more question if someone can answer. I need to know the head bolt torque setting for this motor? anyone know?
Clint


From the 955 60A1-up Service Manual for the D330T

OK, If some one can help. I need the head bolt torque settings again, Please
The water pump went out and after rebuilding it, I have water blowing out from around the injector and getting in the cylinder. Is this more than likely the gaskets or just a seal around the injector chamber?

ccjersey
06-21-2007, 12:50 PM
first round on the head bolts 85 foot pounds
second round 120-130 foot pounds
The pattern of tightening is starting at the center and doing all of the two middle rows of bolts in a criss-cross pattern down the head and then returning to the center and doing the outside two rows in a criss-cross pattern.

The water blowing up around the injector and getting in the cylinder could be a combination of problems, but the one problem that could cause that would most likely be if the precombustion chamber itself has a hole in it. It will have to be removed to change the seals anyway, so check it good for pits while you have it out. Could also have a cracked head or blown gasket and some bad o-rings on the top of the precombustion chamber.

Hope it isn't too bad. The precombustion chambers probably aren't too expensive (aftermarket).

Old Magnet
06-21-2007, 02:13 PM
Still had em on file:D :D . CCJersey seems to have the symptoms covered.

bob
06-21-2007, 05:24 PM
Hold on here a minute Drigger. Does your engine have a cast aluminium valve cover or a pressed steel one? Aluminium is on a D330 and pressed steel is on a D330C. Different engine different torques. Also the 330 has a belt driven water pump 330C has a gear driven one. OM has a file of pic to identify your engine. 85J is also a common serial #.
Later bob

Old Magnet
06-21-2007, 07:02 PM
Hi Bob,
A check of my TRW parts interchange indicates the 955K serials # 61H1-61H1801 uses the 330A turbocharged engine (early) same as the 60A1 series. Still a bit tricky identifying the 330TA, 330TC and 3304 engines across the K & L series:D :D

driggars
06-21-2007, 07:09 PM
Hold on here a minute Drigger. Does your engine have a cast aluminium valve cover or a pressed steel one? Aluminium is on a D330 and pressed steel is on a D330C. Different engine different torques. Also the 330 has a belt driven water pump 330C has a gear driven one. OM has a file of pic to identify your engine. 85J is also a common serial #.
Later bob
Bob

My engine has the belt driven water pump and pressed steel cover. Thanks
Clint

driggars
06-21-2007, 07:13 PM
Still had em on file:D :D . CCJersey seems to have the symptoms covered.
Thanks to all, a fe wmonths ago I got this same info from you, but have since had a couple of puter crashes, I have the info saved on CD, but cant find it, to many dang CD's.

I pulled the head today, the head looks OK, the gaskets looks fine, so its looking like it is the injector chamber seal, I hope?
any know the best way to remove it?
or should I run it down to the cat dealer and let them get it out and put a seal back

Clint

driggars
06-21-2007, 07:18 PM
first round on the head bolts 85 foot pounds
second round 120-130 foot pounds
The pattern of tightening is starting at the center and doing all of the two middle rows of bolts in a criss-cross pattern down the head and then returning to the center and doing the outside two rows in a criss-cross pattern.

The water blowing up around the injector and getting in the cylinder could be a combination of problems, but the one problem that could cause that would most likely be if the precombustion chamber itself has a hole in it. It will have to be removed to change the seals anyway, so check it good for pits while you have it out. Could also have a cracked head or blown gasket and some bad o-rings on the top of the precombustion chamber.

Hope it isn't too bad. The precombustion chambers probably aren't too expensive (aftermarket).
The gaskets look fine, and these head bolts are the hardened bolts so will take the higher torque settings.

another quick question, once I get the engine running again, and the head bolts torqued, how long should I run it and re-torque them? or abou how many hours?

I replaced the hed gasket back in January, and torqued them to 160 # but when we pulled it today, they seemed easy to break loose, just a regular breaker bar did it, does that sound normal? I figured that I would have needed to use a cheater?
Clint

Old Magnet
06-21-2007, 07:49 PM
Takes special tool (splined bolt) #5F8353 to remove combustion chambers.

Re-torque should be done after engine cools following one good work out at operating temperature. You state gaskets looked fine, I'm assuming you men head gasket. You stated earlier you were getting water in the cylinder, is that the case? Need to check out pre-com seals and check for pin hole as CC mentioned next.

bob
06-21-2007, 08:11 PM
Driggers, belt driven pump should be a D330 4.5"bore engine. Pressed steel valve cover should be a D330C 4.75" bore engine( very similar to 3304).
The aluminium valve cover is held on by 4 long 3/8" bolts in the center, the pressed steel one is held on by many short 5/16" bolts in the outside flange.
Later Bob

Old Magnet
06-21-2007, 09:52 PM
D330 Normally Aspirated engine picture.

rusted
06-22-2007, 02:03 AM
The serial # quoted indicates a '67 build, the same year the "c" series engines appeared...so it may well be.

Old Magnet
06-22-2007, 08:48 AM
With the cylinder head off, go measure the bore...then you'll know for sure.

driggars
06-22-2007, 09:28 PM
With the cylinder head off, go measure the bore...then you'll know for sure.
OK guys, thanks for the help, I decided to take the head to the head machine shop, they magnufluxed it and it has a crack running all the way right thru the middle of all the pre-combustion chambers. the cylider where the water was coming out you could see the crack by eye.
So, $1100.00 they are gonna completly rebuild the head including fixing the cracks, new combustion chambers, injectors, valves guides and so on. This was a virgin head, so they said it makes it better since they cut out all the areas that are cracked, fill in then machine the head. only problem, it takes two weeks, LOL
Clint

ccjersey
06-22-2007, 09:55 PM
Ouch!

I think I would find another one and start over.

AJ.
06-23-2007, 03:50 AM
Have you found the cause of the heating that caused the cracking,bit of a waste of time and money to put a head back on and not have found the reason,while waiting for the head I would remove the radiator,take off the tanks to see if the tubes are nice and clean,if not "rod" them and put the pressure washer on each one, I'v had machines come to my place with heating problmes and been told that the rads had been repaired at rad shops only to find when the tanks were removed that too many tubes had been blocked off rather than the core replace, few tubes don't matter but there is a limit,you should also check the liner protrusion, if you have a low liner hot compression will leak into the coolant from the cylinder and cause overheating very quickly,you may need someone that has experience to check the liner protrusion for you,if you have a low one the liner will have to be removed and the seat recut.there has to be a reason for the heating so you need to find it before you put the head back.
AJ

Old Magnet
06-23-2007, 09:20 AM
I was just assuming that there was an overheat scenario involved with the water pump failure. I don't think I would reuse that head.....a crack across all the pre-com chamber cavities is pretty severe. Yes, there are those that claim they can repair em but will they guarantee the work for longer than a tail light warranty?? There should be plenty of D330's around to chose from as they were not one of Cat's finest engines.

SJ
06-23-2007, 09:41 AM
Welding shops that repair cracked heads are few & far between esp. good ones but from the dealer we used to send all our heads to a place in Brooklyn NY & he even came & picked them up & over the years he did probably 100s or more heads for us & we never had one that didn,t hold up and no matter how bad they were you couldn,t tell hardly where they were fixed.We also sent bad blocks to him & he did a good job on them too.To find a good shop could be a challenge & one close by so maybe a used head would be the way to go.Cat has an exchange head program but probably is quite expensive.

matt mcguffee
06-23-2007, 07:12 PM
hey, Old Magnet
when I had my d330a apart the tool you listed was too small for mine . Is their another tool, my tractor is a 955h 60a 6070 eng ser # 6459, head ser# 2s9000. I found a 12 point socket that I used .

Old Magnet
06-23-2007, 09:11 PM
Hmmmm...that's interesting. Shows the 5F8353 tool complete with picture being used in the 60A1-up service manual.....but it's hard to tell how far up is.;)

A check of the parts manuals shows a combustion chamber change at 60A9890 so there could be a different tool required. The early head uses a 9H5888 chamber that changed to a 2S8957.

A check of my other service manuals for units that share the same chamber got the same results. The service manuals just don't take into account the later serial numbers.

I show a head number 2S9004 for the 60A and have no info on a 2S9000 so maybe there was probably a head change in that machines history.

A check of the later Caterpillar Service Tools catalog ought to show it but mine is the 8th edition (1955)

Never enough manuals:rolleyes: :rolleyes: