View Full Version : D2 5U Steering clutches
12-22-2008, 09:57 PM
I am needing advice for pulling the D2 5U steering clutch packs off the drive shraft, I can't seem to gett them to pop loose, I thought the shaft is tapered and I had a puller pulling from the two 1/2 inch treaded holes, I I was wondering if there is something more holding the clutch pack on beside the bolt in the center, Any help or experiences would be greatly appreciated
12-23-2008, 05:15 AM
The bolt is all ,just back it out a little,put some pressure on it with a puller and heat the inner drum hub up some with a torch.It should pop off .The Farmer
12-23-2008, 07:15 AM
I agree with farmer3 and you are correct that the shaft is tapered. I removed one of the clutch packs on my 5u years ago but my pulling bolts weren't as long as they should have been and I stripped the threads out of the hub. I redrilled and enlarged the tapped hole to the next size. I used some torch heat on the hub and the pack finally came off (It was definitely on there). The one down side is the heat ruins the clutch springs which I just replaced with new from CAT. Good luck.
12-23-2008, 08:29 PM
The first puller I made up used standard grade all thread rod and a bottle jack , this wasent enough so I got a 17 ton porta power, that pulled the soft threaded rod in 1/2, then I got some grade 8 all thread rod. That did the trick. a key saftey point is to only back out the bolt +/- 4 turns so the clutch wont fly off. Ill try to get a pic posted tomorrow
12-24-2008, 04:36 AM
I do hope that you removed the bolts that thread in horizontally through the yoke into the throwout bearing in the back of the clutch pack.If you look on the ACME site you can find where BruceOz responded with printed instructions for the steering clutch job.I (with help from my wife)resized and printed them and put plastic page protectors on them to make a nice booklet to use in the shop.I found it very helpful.The Farmer
12-24-2008, 08:00 AM
Thank you all for the help, I was able to get them off, I built a heavy plate that bolted to the pulling bolts, then I put a heavy bearing splitter behind that, then I was able to get a good pull on it, It took heat and a few good jars with the sledge hammer, but they did come off
12-24-2008, 08:42 AM
When I was pulling the clutch pack off the tapered shaft we tried everything-heat, one inch impact, pullers, sledge hammer...it was only after I decided to knock it real good with an 8 pound sledge, under pull pressure, that it let go. The other side was a breeze.
I wish now I would have tried melting candle was down the shaft...
12-26-2008, 06:56 PM
In the past I pulled steering clutches on several D2's an two D4's. I always used one of those old fashoned wheel pullers where the handle is made to hit with a hammer. You whack it up tight and give it a good whack on the end of the puller screw. Don't ask how they were re-installed but none have ever come loose.
06-26-2009, 12:13 PM
Put the steering clutch back on without a press?
Anyone have any ideas?
06-26-2009, 08:24 PM
I heated mine, put them on using my welding gloves and had the impact ready to tighten, be prepared to do it fast. Make sure both surfaces are very clean.
06-26-2009, 09:28 PM
I picked up a 20ton Simplex RC202 hollow ram hydraulic cylinder off of eBay to take off and put on my steering clutches and brake drums. Works real good.
06-27-2009, 05:30 AM
I'm undecided on heating the clutch pack only because I put the new springs in it and don't want to affect the temper/springiness. I would hate to have them go soft. I have thought about just trying to get the torch into the splined hole section and heating that a little maybe to 200 degreesF. I think Old-Magnet or someone has done this.
But am in search of thoughts out there.
This clutch wasn't tight when it came off.
I guess the biggest question is:
"If I heat this, then slide it on there and give it a whack with a BFH and it slides past the end of the shaft due to wear."
What do I do then?
06-27-2009, 07:49 AM
I've put the clutches back on by heating the hub (from the rear so as not to heat the springs) to around 230° (or so spit boils), then jam 'em on the well cleaned shaft and hit the bolt with a 3/4" impact. Never had any come loose with that treatment. .
06-28-2009, 05:26 AM
Spit boils on the back surface or the front surface of the splined hole?
06-28-2009, 06:23 AM
It'll boil on the back surface and evaporate real fast on the front where the springs are. I wet a finger and touch the back surface and if it just "pops" when I touch it, I slam 'em on and hit the bolt with the 3/4" impact. The heat in the hub rapidly dissipates into the shaft so there's no danger of overheating the springs.
06-28-2009, 08:28 PM
I'm comvinced! I'll try it this week, hopefully we are slow at work so I can get out at regular time.
06-30-2009, 05:47 PM
I heated the clutch pack spline hot, not as hot as you suggested (I think?).
It went on but left a slight amount of difference (not flush with the shaft).
Not quite 1/16" but maybe 1/32".
Is this acceptable or should I be flush with the shaft? :confused:
06-30-2009, 05:55 PM
The shaft should be just short of the end of the hole in the hub. That way when the bolt and washer are tightened down it can pull it up a little, maybe.
07-01-2009, 05:18 AM
I measured it last night, said a prayer that all of you would say its fine, stuck the new case gasket on, then slid the final drive on. Put 3 bolts in to draw it up close, then called it a night.
Any comments or thoughts before I put the rest of the bolts in?
07-01-2009, 06:45 AM
Sounds like you got it right drujinin. Go ahead with the rest of the assembly.
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