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Lou McMaster
04-22-2009, 02:17 PM
Does anyone use Rotella 15w 40 motor oil in their older Caterpillar 2U and 7U tractors and Cummins NH engines?

Roland
04-22-2009, 04:57 PM
If its the same as our shell 15/40 DEO which is called rimula here now then yes it gets put in everything with a diesel engine from the lawn mower to my truck and yes Cats too ... good oil I highly recomend it

2HIGHTEN
04-22-2009, 05:03 PM
Lou I have used rotella 15w - 40 in all of my older cats and other makes.
I am careful about putting any detergent oil an old engine that has used non detergent oil for many years. The newer oils keep the dirt and crud in susspension with the oil where the older non detergent oils left it settle out. Therefore when you put the new oils in the old engine it will bring a lot of the crud out from hiding and may clog the screens and filters. So I use the 15w-40 after an engine is rebuilt or completley cleaned inside. Ron Meeder

brialin
04-23-2009, 05:03 AM
I buy it by the 55 gallon drum. I also use it in everything I own, new and old. When putting it in an older tractor I sometimes fill the crankcase with diesel fuel and run for a minute or two and then drain. I the refill with motor oil and a new filter. Never had trouble yet. My Toyota corolla knocks for a few seconds when the temperature gets in the single numbers and I now use 5-30 in that during the winter and change over in the summer. It just seems easier than having to buy different kinds of oil.

Brian

Joe_Black
04-23-2009, 07:54 AM
I've occasionally used the Rotella 15w40 but only when I couldn't get the straight 40 weight Rotella. Works well in the old Cats and my Detroits too, but as mentioned just need to watch for junk getting loose and clogging filters/screens and such. If you have a discount club like Sam's or Costco they usually have it by the 55 gallon drum for a good price.

tanker
04-25-2009, 01:08 AM
:( I tried 15/40 shell rotella T in my fresh rebuilt D8- after bout year it started building up yick on the valve guides in pony-[did the same thing to 392 chrysler hemi in pickup] so got nervous in big eng- switched to mobile full synthitic 10/40 for high millage eng's-{regular full syn seems to go through valve guides etc @ an alarming rate- while the stuff for high millage engs doesn't} seems to be a better oil -specially since for last year or so? most of additives in oil have been taken out which protect cam & lifters-[thanks gov- same for sulpher etc that made diesel what it was] theory being the full synthetic might keep cam & lifter in better shape -[first clue of problem-- local racing engines started losing cam/ lifters as soon as oil changed]

jmvmopar
04-25-2009, 10:29 AM
They took all the zinc out of the oil. Good old STP is mostly zinc. I started adding a bottle to all my flat tappet cammed engines.

Old Magnet
04-25-2009, 11:02 AM
Better do a little homework....STP is mostly mineral oil....contains 1-5% zinc dialkyl dithiophosphate. (check MSDS). The diesel engine oils still contain adequate quantities of zinc (Shell Rotella included).

I don't see the need for the fancy multi weight oils in these old engines. There is nothing in them to utilize the light end viscosities like the hydraulic lifters in gasoline engines unless your running in very cold climates. I run straight 30wt in everything I have, 40wt is also a good option if running in hot climate.

raklet
04-25-2009, 01:02 PM
I don't see the need for the fancy multi weight oils in these old engines. There is nothing in them to utilize the light end viscosities like the hydraulic lifters in gasoline engines unless your running in very cold climates.

But is there any thing detrimental about using multi weight oil in the old engines? I buy 15W40 for my modern ag tractors by the 250 gallons. I use it in my old graders because its what I have on hand. Anything wrong with that?

Old Magnet
04-25-2009, 03:42 PM
No, I don't believe any harm will be done.....might be a little higher consumption though.

raklet
04-25-2009, 05:01 PM
No, I don't believe any harm will be done.....might be a little higher consumption though.


:rolleyes: Lets see....about ten hours a year on the old grader - I can probably manage a little higher consumption. :cool:

tanker
04-27-2009, 12:56 AM
[QUOTE=Old Magnet;37667oil... The diesel engine oils still contain adequate quantities of zinc (Shell Rotella included).

My shell supplier told me that the goodies went out of 15/40 rotella T when it went out of all the other oils??- ---Strt wt 30 mobile delvac doesn't hold oil pressure when hot like the 15/40 or the 10 /40 mobile full synthic for high millage engs- have used aeroshell but they got real proud of it so switched to the10/40 syn--pick it up when wallmart has on sale..

Old Magnet
04-27-2009, 12:38 PM
Depends on what API designation you are looking at. CI-4 still contains at least 1200 ppm Zinc.
The latest designation CJ-4 is no more than 1000 ppm zinc and is considered inadequate for flat tappet engines.
Desirable is 1200 -1400 ppm.
These specs are changing very frequently as the industry looks to cleaner burning engines and catalytic converters even on the diesels.

jmvmopar
04-27-2009, 10:10 PM
So we still need to add zinc to our oils. Even at 1% of zinc in STP that's the same amount of zinc that's in 4.5 quarts of 1000ppm oil. So adding 1 bottle of STP (at 1% zinc) to 23 quarts of 1000ppm oil should raise the zinc level to 1200ppm.

I know there are other zinc additives for oil but they are like $8 a bottle. STP is $2.50 a bottle. I'm not trying to sell the stuff I'm just cheap, and thought I'd pass the info on.

Old Magnet
04-27-2009, 10:44 PM
A spec of "no more than 1000 ppm" is to loose to be fooling with. There is no problem getting higher zinc oils......just costs more.

tanker
04-28-2009, 12:30 AM
So we still need to add zinc to our oils

I know there are other zinc additives for oil but they are like $8 a bottle. .

got my attn-what other brands @ what %zinc??and or what zinc compounds are soluble in oil?

jmvmopar
04-28-2009, 10:21 AM
When I say Zinc I mean ZDDP. Here are a bunch on ebay. http://shop.ebay.com/?_from=R40&_trksid=p3907.m38.l1313&_nkw=zddp&_sacat=See-All-Categories

Old Magnet
04-28-2009, 10:50 AM
When looking for higher zinc/phosphorus content oils you will need to look into the SEO's (special engine oils) that are found in the racing and specific vehicle requirements. I'm still using the CI-4 stuff myself but it's all subject to change.

If the oil specification does not tell you what the additive quantity is you are stuck with an oil analysis to find out. More is not necessarily better (up to 3000+ available) as you may begin accumulating deposits where you don't want them...like valve guides.

The range of ZDDP desired (Zinc Dialkyl Dithio Phosphate) or (Zinc & phosphorus) for the old flat tappet engines is 1200 to 1400 ppm or 0.12 to 0.14% by weight.

Aaron
04-28-2009, 11:33 PM
What you need to do is talk to the man that works in the bussiness, and not the counter pimple, call Union, Shell,Chevron and talk to the oil expert they'll tell you what they have that is recomended for the older motors turbo and non, Union recomends Guardoil for Cummins turboe in a straight 30 for the older stuff, it can also be used in non turbo such as the older Cat engines, T5X is for the older 2 stroke Driptroits in a straight weight either 30 or 40, useing the correct oil is important as the additivies are formulated for specific things, such as the T5X don't use it in Cummins its strictly for a screamer, but note you won't have adverse affects useing 15/40 except in a detroit, but they highly recommend useing the oil you engine was speced out for

Old Magnet
04-29-2009, 11:30 AM
Hi Aaron,
You make a good point about knowing what your engine requirements are, as best supplied by the engine manufacturer but even then the old stuff didn't delve into lube specifications as defined today and the info can be hard to come by and obsolete by today's available lubrication products.

You can talk to anyone but in general they are somebody's oil peddler and are biased towards their represented products.

The only sure way is to get hold of the API specifications for the product and check for yourself. This system was set up years ago to sort out the same type claims we see today.