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muzz
04-04-2007, 12:30 PM
I have a D47u and a 12 8t grader and was thinking of going to a direct electric starter. I have paid close attention to everything Old Magnet has posted here and at his Image shack. I finally got around to calling Components Parts Co in CA for the starter drive 3-293A. They said "out of stock" try our other store in KS. They said "can't sell to anyone but rebuilders". I had done a lot of surfing to find someone closer and then anyone at all with no luck. Today I found what looks like a great supplier on EBAY.

They are:
Ebay seller name: triodiode

Following is copied from their Ebay store:
Weitzel's D.C. Electric Norwalk, Ohio 419-668-2844

Custom Rebuilder of Starters, Alternators and Generators

Doing it yourself? We sell parts.

BUSHINGS, BEARINGS, BRUSHES, BRUSH SPRINGS, SOLENOIDS, ARMATURES, FIELDS, STATORS, ROTORS, GENERATOR KITS, STARTER KITS, VOLTAGE REGULATORS, THREW BOLTS, SHIFT FORKS, BRUSH HOLDERS AND MORE!


Have questions on other parts. Give us a call. Open 8:00-5:00 Monday- Friday.
Saturday 8:00 to Noon
Closed Sundays
Ohio 419-668-2844
Toll Free 1-866-840-2844


They have the 11 ($61.39)and 12 ($56.04) teeth starter drives.

Caterpillar Helix Starter Drive 40 MT Conversion 12 T Item number: 250072356243
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Caterpillar-Helix-Starter-Drive-40-MT-Conversion-12-T_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33576QQihZ015QQitemZ2 50072356243QQtcZphoto

Delco Remy Starter Starter Drive Helix Gear Caterpillar Item number: 250027274280
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Delco-Remy-Starter-Starter-Drive-Helix-Gear-Caterpillar_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33576QQihZ0 15QQitemZ250027274280QQtcZphoto

I have a 42 MT starter, should I use the 11 or 12 tooth?


Thanks,
Muzz

Old Magnet
04-04-2007, 03:02 PM
Hi Muzz,
Didn't know you were having trouble locating parts. Should have put up a post as I have several alternative sources for the special drives and housings although this is the first time I've head of Component Parts not having the stuff.
Either the 11 or 12 tooth helical drive works fine on the 40MT, 42MT and 50MT starters. Just make sure you get the right rotation as there is both a LH and RH helical drives available.
Yes, some suppliers are touchy about selling directly to users, which makes it difficult to source.

Eds-oldiron
04-04-2007, 09:01 PM
I have dealt with C C Battery in Corpus Christi, Texas. 800-531-1038
www.ccbattery.com. Ed

John in Wy
09-02-2007, 10:57 AM
Another guy that knows what he is doing and can set you up with a new starter is Tom at Wyoming Starter and Alternator. One man shop and owner really nice guy. His number is 307-682-1311. You can thro my name at him if you want. He keeps busy. John Rose from Moorcroft, Wy.

metisse1965
02-06-2008, 08:53 PM
Hi Muzz,
Didn't know you were having trouble locating parts. Should have put up a post as I have several alternative sources for the special drives and housings although this is the first time I've head of Component Parts not having the stuff.
Either the 11 or 12 tooth helical drive works fine on the 40MT, 42MT and 50MT starters. Just make sure you get the right rotation as there is both a LH and RH helical drives available.
Yes, some suppliers are touchy about selling directly to users, which makes it difficult to source.
Say Old Magnet do we want a LH or RH heli drive. My local stater shop is building me up a MT 42 rig right now. PS how do I cancel a For Sale Ad. Also can you refer w to a thread that describes now to verify a stuck fuel rack. My D4 7u sat in a Humid Michigan climate w the fuel detent in the closed position. So the only thing I have not tried is the throttle lever fuel off detent. This old Traxavator is going to be running this spring. By Hell or High Water. Metisse1965

Old Magnet
02-06-2008, 09:03 PM
You need a RH helical gear drive.
Open up your ad and delete under the edit function.
Take the side cover off the fuel injection pump housing and check for movement. A little pushing and prodding along with some WD-40 should get it going again.

firekat
02-28-2008, 02:25 AM
Hi there.
just found this source out.

http://www.rockanddirt.com/dispads/0000001783.pdf
firecat

metisse1965
05-01-2008, 08:34 PM
Say Old Magnet do we want a LH or RH heli drive. My local stater shop is building me up a MT 42 rig right now. PS how do I cancel a For Sale Ad. Also can you refer w to a thread that describes now to verify a stuck fuel rack. My D4 7u sat in a Humid Michigan climate w the fuel detent in the closed position. So the only thing I have not tried is the throttle lever fuel off detent. This old Traxavator is going to be running this spring. By Hell or High Water. Metisse1965

Old Magnet--- Got starter its Sweet! However looking at drawings from Image Shack. My Traxavator has a reinforcement plate over the (3) 1/2 inch holes that provide and up / down reference for the drilling fixture. Its nearly impossible to remove this plate as the up / down cylinder is hooked to it. Center of starter is required to be 3/4 of an inch above center line of 1/2 inch threaded hole on the bell housing casting. I do have the (2) 3/8 threaded holes that are along the edge of the bell housing.

Am I making sense? I can send some photo's if you need them.

Thanks

Ron K
Metisse1965

Can you give me a measurement from either of these 3/8 holes?

Old Magnet
05-01-2008, 09:59 PM
Hi Ron,
Yes, I follow what you are describing.
Let me take a look at referencing off the 3/8 side cover bolt holes.
My drill jig picks up those holes as well as the three 1/2 holes on the side of the bell housing.

metisse1965
05-03-2008, 01:01 PM
Say Old Magnet:

I'd donate $100 to your favorite charity or put it towards taking your significant other out for dinner. If I could use your fixture for a couple of days.

Likewise pay shipping both ways to Michigan and back again.

Thanks
Ron K

Old Magnet
05-03-2008, 05:22 PM
My jig wouldn't do you any good if you can't access the three 1/2 in. bolt holes on the side of the bell housing plus the two 3/8 bolt holes for the engine side covers.

I measured for center locations using the 3/8 bolts and get 4-11/16 in. down from the top bolt and/or 3-1/16 in. up from the lower one. That is on a check measurement of the bolt hole centers being 7-3/4 in. apart.

I don't really want to be shipping the jig either the way things have a habit of getting lost:( :(

ol Grump
05-03-2008, 07:34 PM
I just finished putting a 40MT starter (was quite a bit cheaper than the 42MT) on my D4 7U. YIPPEEE YAY!! No more having to listen to that pony motor cackle away. I guess the next thing is going to be to get the newer precups and glow plugs as it takes a sniff of ether below about 45 degrees to get it fired up.

Several things I did notice during all this. First, if there's anyway possible, break the tracks so ya don't hafta stand on your head to do the layout. It'll give a bit more room when the drill motor binds up too. Second, get a carbide tipped hole saw. .it'll make life a lot nicer (and do the hole faster). I cut the 2 5/8" hole with a hole saw that wasn't carbide tipped. Hadta sharpen it a few times before I got through that inch of cast iron. Also, I used 1/2" bolts as the starter had bushings for that size. And as cramped as it was tapping the 1/2" holes, I could imagine how much fun it could have been going 5/8" instead.

After I got everything mounted, I tried it out with heavy automotive cables. Not the best, but they were what was handy at the moment. I've since replaced 'em with some 2/0 cables I made up and what a difference!!

Before anyone asks, I think I'll leave the pony on it 'til I see how everything works come winter rather than take it off and sell it now. As much time as I spent on the D4 this past winter is any indication of the "global warming" it could be worse next winter. .might even hafta build a cab for the critter:rolleyes:

Old Magnet
05-03-2008, 09:00 PM
Before you go buying glow plug pre-com chambers and glow plugs better check your tractor serial number. The glow plug set up will not fit units prior to 7U19767. Takes the later head part # 1H7657 (casting # 7F3764) which has a larger pre-com chamber bore.
Yes there are plenty of cheap 40MT starters out there as they are obsolete.
The 42MT is a better built unit with more serviceable parts, especially the brush holder assembly and main power terminal.

Did you do the modification to allow the installation of the engine side covers?

ol Grump
05-04-2008, 06:50 AM
OM, If you're referring to grinding the outside flush with the clutch housing, yep. I haven't put the side cover back on yet as I want to pressure wash the belly pan and engine first.

I guess I missed the part about the head change. I did talk to the Cat dealer about parts availability and they're out there but I forgot to mention the S/N. I'll rectify that sometime this coming week and see what happens.

Old Magnet
05-04-2008, 09:52 AM
I was referring to the alteration that allows you to tuck the solenoid in so that it does not interfere with the side panels.

ol Grump
05-05-2008, 06:28 AM
I guess I missed that alteration but the solenoid isn't in the way of the side panel. It is right up against the boss for the pinion, I did however have to remove most of the reinforcing rib on the inside of the panel to clear the starter motor.

Old Magnet
05-05-2008, 08:51 AM
That's as good as it gets:) :)
Maybe you stumbled on to a better fitting indexable nose. They normally don't come bushed. Any chance of identifying with a part number?

ol Grump
05-06-2008, 06:50 AM
OM, I went back to your site and saw what you were referring to; grinding clearance for the outboard mount bolt. Sorry to say, I didn't luck into some magic indexable nose that miraculously fit:( I did a little grinding in the area shown on your site but used a regular Grade 8 bolt that I thinned the head down a bit. (Didn't have an Allen head capscrew of the size needed on hand) T'was a bit awkward holding the starter up and starting that particular bolt as it had to go in first.

All in all, a fun project but not one that I'm in a real hurry to repeat. It would be a lot easier with the clutch housing off the engine, true, but it can be done with the critter all together. .if anyone is willing to sacrifice a bit of skin off their knuckles. :D

metisse1965
05-07-2008, 07:37 PM
My jig wouldn't do you any good if you can't access the three 1/2 in. bolt holes on the side of the bell housing plus the two 3/8 bolt holes for the engine side covers.

I measured for center locations using the 3/8 bolts and get 4-11/16 in. down from the top bolt and/or 3-1/16 in. up from the lower one. That is on a check measurement of the bolt hole centers being 7-3/4 in. apart.

I don't really want to be shipping the jig either the way things have a habit of getting lost:( :(

Yes I am in Law Enforcement and as our economy sours, pensions are called into question and health care deductibles increase things do get lost. However in my 61 years on this earth I've never been screwed by a true gun lover or devoted classic motorcycle buff. My D4 is a tool not a piece to be put into a museum.

Thanks for the measurement I should be able to lay it out but a heavy duty drill working on cast iron hunched over can sometimes drift off center.

What the Hell I'll make my own fixture. Maybe someone will want to rent it for $100 when I get finished w my job plus S&H bothways?

PS Larceny is taking what does n't belong to you and failure to return rental items w a valid contract revocation clause is a felony in most states.

As a side note my M42 starter w hose bevel and heavy copper leads for the twin 12 volt batteries was $340. A fair price I thought.

Take Care

Ron K
Metisse1965

ol Grump
06-02-2008, 08:13 AM
Old Magnet. .has anyone to your knowledge ever remachined the head of one of these old critters to take the newer precoms and retainers that would use the glow plugs? As I'm a retired machinist with access to machine tools it strikes me that this might be a cheaper alternative to getting a new head.

Old Magnet
06-02-2008, 07:08 PM
Sorry, I'm not aware of older heads being machined to receive the later pre-coms.....not that the machining would be all that difficult but I'm not sure what all was modified to get the clearances required or whether there were alignment changes.

forbes
04-17-2009, 07:28 PM
I was wondering if I can and where to find it. Is it alot of work. Any ideas or help would be great.

Old Magnet
04-17-2009, 07:37 PM
Lots of them have been converted.
Study up on all the info here:
http://img400.imageshack.us/gal.php?g=header4oq.jpg

n7gxz
05-17-2009, 03:46 PM
I've been having some problems with the pony on my D2 so I started looking at maybe converting it over to a direct electric start. One of the things in doing the convertion I'd want to do is to add glow plus. In looking through OM's image bucket pictures he says that I did not have the number for the pre chambers for the D2 so I started doing some checking around and I came across this website http://truckengineparts.com/prechambers.aspx. I've pulled the information from the web page and made a table of the pre chambers and glow plugs and which engines they fit.

Kevin

Old Magnet
05-19-2009, 11:38 PM
Hi Kevin,
Just now noticed your posting of the pre-com list.....thanks much for the info.

n7gxz
05-20-2009, 06:24 PM
No problem OM I'm getting real close to pulling the trigger and doing the swap to the DE. I'm thinking of pulling the engine and setting the flywheel housing up on the mill to punch the hole for the starter. Romain Electric is local to me and they have a listing for the bendix and the DEH, don't know what their price is yet though.

Kevin

King of Obsolete
05-20-2009, 08:31 PM
once again the computer and the internet are making working on cats very easy. great info because i live at the end of the world.

thansk
KoO
Published Author

Radcam
05-25-2009, 09:12 AM
If I mount the batteries where the pony motor sat, how do I bypass the coolant passages? Looking at the coolant flow diagram they can't be blocked off. I looked through the info OM posted, but I didn't find anything that discusses this issue.

Old Magnet
05-25-2009, 09:19 AM
Taking the pony motor out of the cooling loop and blocking the passages is not a problem. Has no effect on cooling the main. The usual approach is to make the floor of the conversion battery box the block off for the bellhousing then just plate the opening in the cylinder head.

Radcam
05-25-2009, 09:37 AM
Thanks OM.
Doing it as you suggested was my initial thought. Looking at the cooling flow diagram in my engine manual made it appear that there was no other path for coolant flow. So I was unsure of doing it that way.

Things like this are what makes the internet a great thing.

railbob
06-05-2009, 10:27 PM
Hi. New here.

Got a question for Old Magnet. How do you face the starter boss when installing a MT 42 on a D-2 or D-4 without taking it to the mill?

Got three D-2's and a 2t D4 to do plus a 8t grader. Already done a RD-6 and a D-8.

Got a flywheel housing done in Amity Or. for another D-2 but really dont want to take 4 more tractors apart.

Old Magnet
06-05-2009, 11:17 PM
Hi railbob,
The in place installations are getting done without facing the bell housing. Would be wise to grind off any obvious bumps but seems to work ok. You do lose a little off the flywheel/drive engagement but that has not been a problem...so far.

Curious as to which D8 you converted....was it a late 2U model that has nothing (just the hole for the pony pinion) in the bellhousing with no mounting holes?

Would like to see some pictures of the RD-6 conversion also (before & after)

n7gxz
06-06-2009, 07:23 AM
Hey OM,

I just picked up the parts to start my D2 conversion. In your documents for the listings of the DEH for the D2's you list the 42MT as a CPC 15-1291 but is actually CPC 51-1291 and it is has 1/2" mounting holes.

Kevin

Old Magnet
06-06-2009, 01:17 PM
Yup!! Guess I went cross-eyed on that one.

Also on another item....I was reviewing your glow plug chamber chart and notice your (line #14) 7B1844 chamber as using a 3H2033 glow plug and includes engines D4400, D4600 and D8800. Don't believe these engines ever had glow plug chambers unless I'm missing something. Can you verify?

railbob
06-06-2009, 07:45 PM
Hi railbob,

Curious as to which D8 you converted....was it a late 2U model that has nothing (just the hole for the pony pinion) in the bellhousing with no mounting holes?

Would like to see some pictures of the RD-6 conversion also (before & after)

Yes it is a 2U. I will get some pics for show and tell.

n7gxz
06-06-2009, 08:41 PM
OM,

I doubled checked the web page again at http://truckengineparts.com/prechambers.aspx for the 7B1844 pre-comp chamber and it is listing engines D318, D4400, D4600, & D8800 for this one with a 3H2033 glow plug.


I got the engine pulled and the flywheel housing up on the mill today. Got the holes drilled out and it turns out that my boring head did not extend out far enough to finish boring out the 3.625" hold. So I have to get a larger boring head now.

Kevin

Old Magnet
06-06-2009, 09:18 PM
OK, checked listing and that's what it says.....but they have identification errors elsewhere also.....looks to be a good source but numbers will have to be verified.

I looked at another source and the 7B1844 is a non glow plug chamber for the
D7 & D8......models 7M, 3T, 4T, 6T, 13A and 2U7129-up (D8800 & D13000 only)

They are also confused with the D311 and D315/D318 being interchangeable as well.

n7gxz
06-07-2009, 07:58 AM
Do you know if the 2S1273 is the correct glow plug chamber for the D311?

Kevin

Old Magnet
06-07-2009, 10:15 AM
The 2S1273 is a non glow plug that fits the early D315 & D318's and has a 1 1/8 in. - 12 thread nose.

The D311 (first version) chambers have a 1 in. -12 nose.

It is possible to re-thread the nose to fit D4/D6 chambers in to D2 heads.
I am not aware of any source for the D311 glow plug chambers.

railbob
06-10-2009, 10:24 PM
Hi railbob,


Would like to see some pictures of the RD-6 conversion also (before & after)

Well here is a pic of the RD-6. Dad used the pinion shaft from the pony and added a bearing on the tail end. He then set an eleven tooth straight tooth on the shaft for the m40 starter to engage. Works great. Yes you have to put the pinion in.
However after doing the Diesel Fifty with a machined bushing we wont do this again

railbob
06-10-2009, 10:31 PM
Here is a pic of the Diesel Fifty 1E627. We machined out a bushing for the pinion hole that has an offset hole for the starter. Did the same of the 2U.
Next we are going to try machining the drive end housing and shrinking a bushing on and drill it for the original pinion bolt holes.

Old Magnet
06-13-2009, 08:48 PM
Hi railbob,
Thanks for the pictures.....you guys are doing some pretty creative starter mountings. Any chance of getting some detailed pictures of the 2U starter mounting hardware.....before it is mounted.
Have you tackled the D7-3T's?? Curious to see what you came up with for adapting the starter drive end housing to the bellhousing......apparently there used to be some clean adaptions at one time but the art seems to be lost.

n7gxz
06-13-2009, 09:03 PM
What size cables are you guys using with the 42MT starters?

Kevin

Old Magnet
06-13-2009, 09:13 PM
I have been using up my old #20 (#00) welding cable....works fine.

railbob
06-13-2009, 10:11 PM
We are using 000. The 50 starter we used 0000.
I will get up to the 2U and get some pics. I hope the guy will let me pull it apart again.

power stroke 99
07-06-2009, 09:03 AM
Hi there.
just found this source out.

http://www.rockanddirt.com/dispads/0000001783.pdf
firecat

Has anyone priced the alternator?

Old Magnet
07-07-2009, 02:10 PM
I was thinking about +/- $300 or so. Give them a call and find out.

power stroke 99
07-08-2009, 07:48 PM
I was thinking about +/- $300 or so. Give them a call and find out.

The only way they will give a qoute is if you fax them for a qoute, I did call.

n7gxz
07-08-2009, 09:08 PM
Give Romaine Electric http://www.romaineelectric.com/ a call. They sold me a 21SI 24V for about $170 USD and $45 for the pulley.

Kevin

power stroke 99
07-09-2009, 02:34 PM
The only way they will give a qoute is if you fax them for a qoute, I did call.


I called back today and they did give me a price, 395 for the alternator and 733 for starter kit, which I only got the price to see what they were asking.

n7gxz
07-09-2009, 06:11 PM
I called back today and they did give me a price, 395 for the alternator and 733 for starter kit, which I only got the price to see what they were asking.

Give Ron Schafer at Romaine Electric a call at 1-800-426-5005 and tell him what your doing and see what he can do for you.

His email is ronschafer@romaineelectric.com.

I got my complete D2 setup, starter, DEH, starter drive, altenator, pulley, and ignition switch for less then what you were quoted for just the starter.

Kevin

power stroke 99
07-09-2009, 07:37 PM
Give Ron Schafer at Romaine Electric a call at 1-800-426-5005 and tell him what your doing and see what he can do for you.

His email is ronschafer@romaineelectric.com.

I got my complete D2 setup, starter, DEH, starter drive, altenator, pulley, and ignition switch for less then what you were quoted for just the starter.

Kevin

Thanks Kevin, I will do that tomorrow....

n7gxz
07-15-2009, 06:29 PM
Well I finally got a glow plug pre-combustion chamber to see if it would fit my D2(D311). Turns out that a 1S1970 chamber will fit after I do a little machining. There are two and maybe three things that need work to make them fit. First is the nose thread which is a 1-1/8"x12TPI on the 1S1970 needs to be machined down to a 1"x12TPI to fit the D311. Second is about 1/4" of the threads on the top need to be taking out to allow the injector nut to set all of the way down against the injector. The third area is the shoulder on the nose just above the nose thread may need to be narrowed down to fit the recess in the head, will not know for sure until I can rethread the nose.

I’ve been working with Chris at CEA Services and he has been very helpful in trying to locate chambers that would work, he has an eBay website http://stores.shop.ebay.com/CEA-Services__W0QQ_armrsZ1.

Kevin

OzDozer
07-17-2009, 09:37 PM
powerstroke99 - Did the $395 include the alternator as well as the adaptor? How does the alternator cooling work on this conversion? Is the original alternator fan still in position? .. or is it removed, and some other form of cooling put in place? I can't see how the original alternator fan works with this setup, it needs to throw the cooling air to the outside, to be able to get the airflow through the alternator.

Old Magnet
07-17-2009, 10:36 PM
Oz,
The two most common coupling type adapters retain the stock cooling fan. The air flow is diverted forward to exit the openings in the side of the adapter housing. That price would be for adapter and alternator.....usually there is some choice as to who's alternator is used, most common being the Delco SI, Motorola and Leece Neville.

Old Magnet
07-18-2009, 08:34 PM
Hi N7gxz,
The chamber re-thread and and relief requirement is a given but I have not heard about having to remove threads to get the injector nozzle to seat. Have you had a chance to check that out and is it still so????

n7gxz
07-19-2009, 07:25 AM
OM,

Yes I have. The injector nut is not threaded all the way to the bottom of the hex. When I screwed the nut down until the threads bottomed the injector was still loose in the chamber. There is about 1/4" of the nut just under the hex that is not threaded. I'll take some pictures when I pull things and start machining this week when the other three chambers show up.

Kevin

Old Magnet
07-19-2009, 10:38 AM
Not sure what's going on.....the late D2 and D4's use the same 4F5677 retainer nut and 4F5682 body plus both use the late 6H3364 nozzle. I wonder if there is a problem with those import pre-com chambers.

n7gxz
07-19-2009, 02:13 PM
OM,

Here is a picture of the new 1S1970 chamber and my original chamber and retainer nut.

The original chamber has a 1-1/8"x12TPI thread about 3/8" deep and then it changes to 1"x14TPI that matches the injector retainer nut.

The 1S1970 has a 1"x14TPI thread all the way to the top. Might be the difference between the new one piece design and the older two piece.

Kevin

Old Magnet
07-19-2009, 02:55 PM
Yes, the larger thread is for the retainer and its removal using the threaded stud and spacer tooling.

I'll have to look again but I was under the impression the 1S1970 was the correct height to use the standard retainer nut.

Old Magnet
07-24-2009, 08:10 AM
Hi n7gxs,
I'm a little slow on the uptake here but just realized the glow plug chambers use a different injector retaining nut and seal The nut is a 8F8061 and the seal is a 5B3718. The nut takes a special splined socket part # 8S2243.

I believe that will explain the problem with clamping the injector nozzle using the standard chamber parts.

n7gxz
07-24-2009, 04:47 PM
I took out about .200" out of the top of threads and everything now fits. Just waiting for the glow plugs to arrive.

Kevin

n7gxz
07-24-2009, 06:38 PM
OK the glow plugs showed up today. Now I need to decide how to connect the wires. The terminal end is a .25" smooth shaft. I can thread it and put a couple of nuts on it and then use an eye terminal on the wire.

Kevin

Old Magnet
07-25-2009, 09:32 PM
The original Cat system used a 9F8584 sleeve and 9F8585 collet as part of the glow plug lead assembly. I have no idea if they are still available or not. Never tried threading....don't know if you can do that without cutting through the very thin jackets. I'd try to come up with some type of socket plug in system.

n7gxz
07-28-2009, 07:30 PM
Well I think I've found what I can use for the connectors to the 3H2033 glow plugs. I had a set of old spark plug wires and the cap end fits on the glow plug end real nice so I'm going to try and build up a set of glow plug wires with them.

Kevin

BOWTIEIH
08-31-2009, 11:45 AM
Thanks for all the help, I got the starter put on this weekend and she fired up. Now to get a 12 volt alt put on her and we will have everything finished. It is so nice to turn a key and have it start. verses having to toy with the pony. When I pulled the pony I made plate to cover where the pony set and put a 1/2 inch nipple in it, hooked that up to a block heater, sent that to the head. So if I need the old girl this winter we should be ready to roll. After shopping around I ended up with 350.00 in the starter.

Thanks once again.

jaker65
08-31-2009, 03:29 PM
sounds like you did some nice work there. If you could, i would like to see how you hooked up the block heater. if you could, post some pics. i know a great deal of us would like to see this. anyways, hope all works out for you! have fun playing with your toy :D

BOWTIEIH
09-04-2009, 07:00 PM
I Will Get Pictures Of It All Put Together

bcwayne
09-04-2009, 07:39 PM
Heres a picture of another method that I used of connecting a block heater as recommended by other ACMOC members... I bought a 1500 watt KAT brand heater from Amazon.com..... works great.:)

3TRob
02-27-2010, 06:30 PM
CME in Florida advertises in Rock & Dirt that they handle all conversions from pony to electric start for Cat machines.

PHONE (305) 633-1524 • FAX (305) 633-9537

chrisj
02-20-2011, 09:23 AM
http://img400.imageshack.us/gal.php?g=header4oq.jpg

When I click this link I go to Imageshack home page. does this link no longer work or do i need help in useing it.

Thank You all who have asked and answered questions on this thread. It has help me much with my 1955 D2 5U with a dead factory 24 volt starter.
ChrisJ

chubjr
11-01-2012, 01:55 PM
I have a D47u and a 12 8t grader and was thinking of going to a direct electric starter. I have paid close attention to everything Old Magnet has posted here and at his Image shack. I finally got around to calling Components Parts Co in CA for the starter drive 3-293A. They said "out of stock" try our other store in KS. They said "can't sell to anyone but rebuilders". I had done a lot of surfing to find someone closer and then anyone at all with no luck. Today I found what looks like a great supplier on EBAY.

They are:
Ebay seller name: triodiode

Following is copied from their Ebay store:
Weitzel's D.C. Electric Norwalk, Ohio 419-668-2844

Custom Rebuilder of Starters, Alternators and Generators

Doing it yourself? We sell parts.

BUSHINGS, BEARINGS, BRUSHES, BRUSH SPRINGS, SOLENOIDS, ARMATURES, FIELDS, STATORS, ROTORS, GENERATOR KITS, STARTER KITS, VOLTAGE REGULATORS, THREW BOLTS, SHIFT FORKS, BRUSH HOLDERS AND MORE!


Have questions on other parts. Give us a call. Open 8:00-5:00 Monday- Friday.
Saturday 8:00 to Noon
Closed Sundays
Ohio 419-668-2844
Toll Free 1-866-840-2844


They have the 11 ($61.39)and 12 ($56.04) teeth starter drives.

Caterpillar Helix Starter Drive 40 MT Conversion 12 T Item number: 250072356243
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Caterpillar-Helix-Starter-Drive-40-MT-Conversion-12-T_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33576QQihZ015QQitemZ2 50072356243QQtcZphoto

Delco Remy Starter Starter Drive Helix Gear Caterpillar Item number: 250027274280
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Delco-Remy-Starter-Starter-Drive-Helix-Gear-Caterpillar_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33576QQihZ0 15QQitemZ250027274280QQtcZphoto

I have a 42 MT starter, should I use the 11 or 12 tooth?


Thanks,
Muzz

if you don't mind, what are you doing with the old electric system start parts?? will they fit a D2

King of Obsolete
01-16-2013, 09:44 AM
here is the website where i get my starters from. they are only 1200kms south of me, lol.

http://ws1.wilsonautoelectric.com/ec03/part.php?part=91-01-3701

i get the auto parts store 300kms away to order the starter in from the south then i drive down and pick it up to save on freight charges. the starter is about $378.00 cdn money.

i had the helix bendix and nose cone in stock from 2006 when i bought a bunch on ebay but i can't remember the numbers right now.

thansk
KoO
Published Author

§wishy
03-23-2013, 12:25 AM
-: OldMagnet's Caterpillar Tractor Operation & Restoration Files :-

:first:

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_oJpDDYd_Crc/SmfrRAo9CdI/AAAAAAAAACI/qmx6aKbWnm4/s144/FrontPage.jpg
Clikity ....ClikCLik (https://sites.google.com/site/oldmagcat)

rchrdbarnard
12-25-2015, 10:46 AM
I have a D47u and a 12 8t grader and was thinking of going to a direct electric starter. I have paid close attention to everything Old Magnet has posted here and at his Image shack. I finally got around to calling Components Parts Co in CA for the starter drive 3-293A. They said "out of stock" try our other store in KS. They said "can't sell to anyone but rebuilders". I had done a lot of surfing to find someone closer and then anyone at all with no luck. Today I found what looks like a great supplier on EBAY.

They are:
Ebay seller name: triodiode

Following is copied from their Ebay store:
Weitzel's D.C. Electric Norwalk, Ohio 419-668-2844

Custom Rebuilder of Starters, Alternators and Generators

Doing it yourself? We sell parts.

BUSHINGS, BEARINGS, BRUSHES, BRUSH SPRINGS, SOLENOIDS, ARMATURES, FIELDS, STATORS, ROTORS, GENERATOR KITS, STARTER KITS, VOLTAGE REGULATORS, THREW BOLTS, SHIFT FORKS, BRUSH HOLDERS AND MORE!


Have questions on other parts. Give us a call. Open 8:00-5:00 Monday- Friday.
Saturday 8:00 to Noon
Closed Sundays
Ohio 419-668-2844
Toll Free 1-866-840-2844


They have the 11 ($61.39)and 12 ($56.04) teeth starter drives.

Caterpillar Helix Starter Drive 40 MT Conversion 12 T Item number: 250072356243
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Caterpillar-Helix-Starter-Drive-40-MT-Conversion-12-T_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33576QQihZ015QQitemZ2 50072356243QQtcZphoto

Delco Remy Starter Starter Drive Helix Gear Caterpillar Item number: 250027274280
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Delco-Remy-Starter-Starter-Drive-Helix-Gear-Caterpillar_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33576QQihZ0 15QQitemZ250027274280QQtcZphoto

I have a 42 MT starter, should I use the 11 or 12 tooth?


Thanks,
Muzz

Muzz,
I also have a d4 7u and have converted it to direct start. I have the parts manual form 7u27570 to 7u44307. From 7u27507 to 7u35746 they used pinion 6b1360 which is a 13t. I'm also converting my 7t No. 12 grader to direct start. I get my starters from Starter Alternator Specialists in Billings, MT (406)248-4335 ask for Todd.

silverstreak
12-25-2015, 08:44 PM
Muzz,
I also have a d4 7u and have converted it to direct start. I have the parts manual form 7u27570 to 7u44307. From 7u27507 to 7u35746 they used pinion 6b1360 which is a 13t. I'm also converting my 7t No. 12 grader to direct start. I get my starters from Starter Alternator Specialists in Billings, MT (406)248-4335 ask for Todd.

I have a D2 5U serial #13200+- that I just had converted to direct electric start. The gentleman that did the installation for me said it was a pretty simple process. He did not have to drill or cut anything. It came with a starter and a mounting bracket that was built to line up with pony motor mounting holes. I still have to use the compression release, although the company that sold it to me said I would not. Since I don't have glow plugs I turn it over for a few minutes with no compression and then give it a small shot of starter fluid, give it compression and it fires right over. I bought the material from Bryan from B & C Equipment in Newburg, Mo. 573-762-2280. He is very knowledgeable and gave great service. I had some questions once I got everything and he explained things very well and told me to call any time if I had any questions. I would highly recommend this company. This was not cheap but well worth it.

STEPHEN
07-06-2016, 07:47 AM
Hey! Check out Servicing Stop! The link is in my signature!
Moderator !😭

Garlic Pete
07-06-2016, 09:08 AM
I just deleted his post and banned him.

Thanks STEPHEN!

Pete.

Partyseyf
09-22-2017, 12:53 AM
Great information here. Are those old machinery of caterpillar are the same with the new one?

LeakyBoot
11-05-2017, 07:05 AM
I have a D2 5U serial #13200+- that I just had converted to direct electric start. The gentleman that did the installation for me said it was a pretty simple process. He did not have to drill or cut anything. It came with a starter and a mounting bracket that was built to line up with pony motor mounting holes. I still have to use the compression release, although the company that sold it to me said I would not. Since I don't have glow plugs I turn it over for a few minutes with no compression and then give it a small shot of starter fluid, give it compression and it fires right over. I bought the material from Bryan from B & C Equipment in Newburg, Mo. 573-762-2280. He is very knowledgeable and gave great service. I had some questions once I got everything and he explained things very well and told me to call any time if I had any questions. I would highly recommend this company. This was not cheap but well worth it. These systems seem to get some bad press but I like it. Yesterday I stick one 31 series battery in the 112 grader which had been sitting for 2 years. Shot of Walmart starting fluid in the small access I drilled and tapped in the cast air intake from the air filter and we were running in about 3 rounds of the engine crank. Leaky Boot

PhilC
05-30-2018, 04:44 AM
Hello All
Looking at adding a starter motor to my D6 4R but I noticed the mounting area is not smooth so I am thinking about machining it flat when I cut out the hole. I have access to a milling machine so facing it off is no problem. The question is how much can I remove to get it smooth and flat without causing mesh problems?

Also the drawing for the D6 from Old Magnets website appears to be incorrect as it shows the inside mount bolt half an inch below center but it should be half an inch above center. The picture is from the site §wishy posted. Are the other dimensions on the drawing correct?

Regards

Phil

harperjmichael
06-21-2018, 11:07 PM
Phil, even if you take a little too much off couldn't you shim it back out to be in spec?

Cat power
07-19-2018, 06:50 AM
G'day my mate here in Australia has a cat D318 in his grader he converted it to electric start said it works great until winter. When the moter is cold you can wind her all day before she'll start. I didn't read everything but thought I'd just say to think about that