Replace steering clutches on D 4 7U? Remove engine?

[3crows]

Just bought a D 4 7U, 4782. Left brake peddle was mostly stuck, had to nearly stand on it to get it to depress and then had to pull it up by hand and toe to get it off. After a lot of WD40 and some hammering on it, I finally took the peddle off and heated up the shaft, replaced the peddle and it's working much better now.
Took off the cover to check the steering clutch adjustment and found that the adjuster only has about 1/4 in. of thread left for adjustment while the right side has about 5/8 to 3/4 in. adjustment left. The snapover on the left side is pretty lame also, compared to the right side. So the question is is there another place to adjust this or do I have to rebuild the steering clutches? And if a rebuild is in order do I have to take off tracks and sprockets? At this point I have the cover raised up to inspect the trans.. It had a couple gal. of water mixed with the oil.
Second question. To remove the engine, do you have to shore up the rear section under the bell housing and also under the engine? I surely don't want to get squashed working under this thing.
Additional info: I have another D 4 that I put a rod through the block on #1 piston on the fuel filter and lift pump side which destroyed both. Everything else on the machine is in good shape. The D4 discussed above was to replace this one I destroyed but if it would be easier to just swap engine I'd go that route instead. How heavy is the engine? I have a JCB backhoe. Can I lift the engine with the front bucket? I also have a 3 ton chain hoist that would work but I'd have to build an "A" frame to support it all, PITA!
And lastly, how do you get the pinion unit that engages the pony motor out? I've taken off the governor to make room but it seems that the lever has to come off too and I cant figure out how to do that. Boy, am I having fun!

[ccjersey]

""""""""""check the steering clutch adjustment and found that the adjuster only has about 1/4 in. of thread left for adjustment while the right side has about 5/8 to 3/4 in. adjustment left. The snapover on the left side is pretty lame also, compared to the right side. So the question is is there another place to adjust this or do I have to rebuild the steering clutches? And if a rebuild is in order do I have to take off tracks and sprockets? """"""""""

If it pulls without slipping when you have one steering clutch released, it's still good. Check the free travel in the levers. That's what goes away when the clutches are worn. Steering clutches should not snap over, just release and spring back engaged. D4 steering clutches are replaced by lifting out the whole bevel gear shaft with steering clutches on each end. The D2's are the ones where the final drives have to come off. The D6's and up have the clutches removable as a unit without disturbing other parts of the tractor.

''''''''''Second question. To remove the engine, do you have to shore up the rear section under the bell housing and also under the engine? I surely don't want to get squashed working under this thing.'''''''''

Yes, good blocking is necessary. Taking out the equalizer spring is the first order of business before unbolting the engine and moving it forward.

'''''''I have a JCB backhoe. Can I lift the engine with the front bucket? I also have a 3 ton chain hoist that would work but I'd have to build an "A" frame to support it all, PITA!''''''''

Lifting with a front loader or the boom of a backhoe will work, but there's less safety than a strong ridgid hoist. Setting in an engine (larger one)with the backhoe boom, I have been in the situation where I could only set the engine down but not lift it up. Just got too extended and the hydraulics couldn't handle it anymore. It worked out ok in the end, but it was hair raising. If the front boom doesn't settle with the weight of the engine, you can hang the engine from the loader with the hoist and have fine control from the ground. I would not want to hang that much weight over the front edge of the bucket if I could get the necessary reach hanging from the end of the boom.

""And lastly, how do you get the pinion unit that engages the pony motor out? I've taken off the governor to make room but it seems that the lever has to come off too and I cant figure out how to do that. Boy, am I having fun!""

One thing you can do is to latch the pinion in to shorten it up a bit if it will stay latched in.

[3crows]

Thanks for the response. There are 4 nuts that hold the pony motor engaging unit in and I've removed them. I've tried to wedge a screwdriver blade in between to pry it out but it only moves about 1/8 in. forward under pressure and that's it. When you take the screwdriver out it moves back in. There's something else holding it. I've had the thing out years ago but don't recall having this problem, but I'm old now and don't remember thing as well as I used to.
Both of my D4's have a snap when the steering clutch levers are pulled in. It's not a snap over like the main clutch but it's audible and you can see it in the linkage and feel it in the levers when it does it. It clicks. Maybe snaps is the wrong word.
The parts book calls the adjuster for the steering clutches a screw. It goes into a "pin" that's in the "trunnion". The screw is nearly all the way turned in leaving only 1/4 in of thread exposed beyond the lock nut on the left side which seems to me would indicate that there's not much adjustment left. I'm not really excited about replacing the steering clutches, expense wise, but I'm in there now with a lot of parts removed and if it needs to be done I'd rather bite the bullet now than have to take it all apart next year, though I get faster each time I do it If I can remember what I did last time. Would be nice to have a service manual but haven't seen one on ebay for this guy.

[ccjersey]

I thought you were out where the pinion clutch hits the back of the governor........ There's a big seal/o-ring in there that sticks in the clutch housing. Spray it with the most agressive penetrating oil you can find and keep working on it. Be careful prying in between there, you can pop off the ears with the holes in them. Like I said, latch the pinion into the flywheel before you get it out any further. This shortens the overall length and makes it easier to clear the governor on the way out.

Not real sure which way the D4 steering clutches adjust. Are you sure they aren't backed out to maintain the correct free travel in the clutch linkage as the clutches wear down? Would hate to have you tear them down if you really didn't need to. Surely someone will chime in here that knows.

[cojhl2]

Thanks for the response. There are 4 nuts that hold the pony motor engaging unit in and I've removed them. I've tried to wedge a screwdriver blade in between to pry it out but it only moves about 1/8 in. forward under pressure and that's it. When you take the screwdriver out it moves back in. There's something else holding it. I've had the thing out years ago but don't recall having this problem, but I'm old now and don't remember thing as well as I used to.

I assume you have the starter motor off or as the book says lifted.

[ol Grump]

While you have the covers off to adjust the steering clutches, look at the bell cranks. There are roller bearings (you can see the ends of the upper ones) that seem to never get oil, tend to rust up and get sticky. Spray 'em with your favorite loose juice and work the steering clutch levers 'til they loosen up a bit, then hit 'em with some oil. Also, the pivot point zerks for the steering clutch levers tend to get over looked and need grease from time to time. Then there are the springs under the little covers (just inboard of the oil cups for the steering clutches) that occasionally need to be cleaned and oiled.

Ccjersey already mentioned about raising the pony motor a bit to get the pinion out. .unless you do, it'll never come out.

[3crows]

Got the bleedin' pinion out finally, and didn't break anything. After adjusting the steering clutches there's less than 1/8 in. of thread exposed on the left side and not much more on the right. I think the the steering clutches are hadit or at least about ready for replacement. Should I operate it 'til it squeals metal to metal or fix it now?

[HFDZL]

you don't have to take out the equalizer spring. it is easier to jack up the back of the tractor about 12 in, block under sprockets. pick up engine/ radiator 'till level. block under front of trans. the engine will come out, the flywheel housing will clear the spring.

[3crows]

Here's how I did it. I put a jack under the bell housing and another one under the front of the engine. Then I disconnected the shackles that attach the leaf spring at the rear of the engine. Then I wrapped a chain around the engine and hooked it to my backhoe bucket and took up the slack. Then I removed all the bolts. Then I jacked up the engine and bell housing until the shackle damits could be squeaked out, taking up slack as I went until the engine was just above the spring. Then I wiggled it loose and out suspended by my backhoe. The part that was the hardest was disconnecting the shackles. The pins were quite bent. And the damit that connects the shackle piece to the engine on the left side was so rusted in place I had to drive it out with a single jack and a large drift. It's out and on the ground.

[Inter674]

I've resurrected this thread because I'm about to pull the engine and flywheel housing in one to access the flywheel seal which is leaking badly - it has probably dislodged since I installed during the recent re-build of the D4 30A (7U).

Question: does the starter motor cord pulley need to come off to clear the bellhousing?

I note there is a scallop machined out of the adjacent mating flanges of the transmission and flywheel housing which is the same shape as the starter motor cord pulley. It looks like the pulley it will clear, but I am not sure.