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Thread: Push or Pull D8

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    oskaloosa ia
    Posts
    17

    Default Push or Pull D8

    I,am going to move a slide bar d8 with a 5r d6 down the road about 1mile.I have one big hill to get up the rest is flat. Would it be easyer to push it or pull it? I did take the blade off to lighten the load. And it has a tow hook on the front of the d8.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Gilroy, CA
    Posts
    358

    Default

    I would push it. If your front hook is attached to your engine oil pan in any way you risk a cracked pan. If the hook is attached to a belly pan, its made for short pulls and is not as rugged as you think. If you want to pull it you need advice from someone who works in the woods, the mud or down under.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Piedmont, South Dakota
    Posts
    73

    Default

    We have generally found pulling the towed Cat backwards (drawbar to drawbar) works pretty well.
    Holt T-35 15 20 22 30 60 D46U

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Gold Coast, Queensland, Australia
    Posts
    1,052

    Default Push or pull.

    Hi, M Rust.
    The slidebar was found on the 1H, 8R and early 2U series D8's. Some D8's, notably the early D8H's, did not have oil feed to the final drive bearings when travelling in reverse. I don't know how the oil feed would have been set up on whatever slidebar D8 you have but I would check before I towed it any great distance backwards.

    You may also find that tying both steering clutch levers back will make it easier to steer whether pulling or pushing.

    I can't recollect ever seeing a front pull hook on a Cat attached direct to the engine oil pan. They always seem to be attached either to a belly pan or to a separate pull frame if no belly pan is fitted.

    My personal choice would be to pull it nose first, even if you end up with a bridle of chain hooked to each side of the equaliser spring in case the front pull hook is not strong enough.

    Just my 0.02.
    You have a wonderful day. Best wishes.

    Deas Plant.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    devon uk
    Posts
    429

    Default

    Theres no need to worry about pressure lube on D8 final drives before the D8H, there wasn't any. The front pull hook was for recovery purposes, there should be no worries about it being strong enough but pulling rear to rear will cause less damage if the towed machine runs away and makes contact!!

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Corralitos, Ca.
    Posts
    7,048

    Default

    I'd recommend a push/pull bar connected between the two draw bars.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    oskaloosa ia
    Posts
    17

    Default

    A neighbor has a 951 bucket cat, he said it might pull it better then my d6. Do you think it would be better to use it instead? He said its got a convertor.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Corralitos, Ca.
    Posts
    7,048

    Default

    The 951's are only 4-bangers....probably smoke the torque converter and for sure overheat the D330/3304.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Richmond Hill Ontario
    Posts
    602

    Default

    M Rust, perchance things aren't as "on the level" as you think. Get the 951 behind holding back and the D6 infront drawing. Then you will not get trampled by a runnaway D8 on the down grade and have some help up hill. I doubt the ol D6 will nead much help though.
    Later Bob

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Cohasset, Ca.
    Posts
    40

    Default

    I just towed a D8 8R with same for several miles. I towed drawbar to drawbar. I would suggest running your tow chain/cable through a pipe to prevent the towed tractor from riding up on the towing machine on downhill runs. I did not do this and some small damage occured.

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