D6 9U Brake and Main Clutch Questions

[ELutter]

Hi,

I have a 9U that I posted about previously. it appears the steering clutches are working, but the right hand brake won't work in reverse and is very marginal in forward. I am guessing that the parking brake will engage an prematurely wear down the lining, any experiences? Long story short, the dozer has a D6N winch and it appears the winch must be removed for reworking the brakes. However, I believe I can just inspect from the top if i remove the seat / tank. I would like confirmation that the first thing to do is remove the seat, inspect and evaluate.

Second the main clutch seems odd. I have put about 5 hours on the dozer and the clutch worked great until recently. The handle has become much harder to pull and does not seem to "break over" during the movement. If I pull back too hard, there is a quick grind from the area of the clutch. I am thinking that I somehow bent something. I have put three quarts of 30wt non-detergent oil in the clutch and it still does not register on the dip stick. This should not affect the operation of the clutch, probably only the life of the plates. I am in the process of cleaning up the area around the inspection / adjustment panel behind the clutch. Any thoughts?

Thank you.

-Ernie

[Old Magnet]

The brake bands and brake drums can be removed from the D6 without disturbing the winch. There is a flanged intermediate shaft that allows removal of the complete steering clutch and brake assembly without affecting the bevel gear and pinion. Does make it plenty awkward working over and around the winch though.

Bring the oil level up to proper height, run the tractor then go through the adjustment procedure. If it won't hold adjustment there is some major work required to recover the clamping feature for the adjustment.

[ccjersey]

You are right, you need to start at the top and see if adjustment can help the brakes. Have you drained all seepage and water out of the compartment already? Might need to wash the compartment with diesel or kerosene to get it all clean enough to work properly, and or make it easier to get the parts loose if it comes to that.

It won't be as easy without having access from the rear, but I believe you can still work the bands around enough to get to the bolts that hold all 3 pieces together. To remove, first go underneath the tractor and back the support screw all the way out, then the brake rod and lever are removed after backing the adjuster nut all the way off of the "fork" so the band can open up enough to remove the pin at the back and disengage the lever from the band.

On the oil clutch, you probably should start by draining the clutch completely and cleaning the strainer for the oil pump suction. See what kind of debris is in there and also look in from the top. If no debris and nothing obviously wrong looking in from the top, I would fill it with oil and readjust the clutch to see if I could get proper engagement again. If it will adjust to a proper snap, then I would not hesitate to run it, just assuming I would have to readjust the clutch pretty frequently for a while once it got cleaned up from the proper flow of oil.

WATCH OUT for the tractor wanting to move when you start it up. The starting procedure is to always have the transmission in neutral and the parking brake set when you start the diesel! Ours has no problem with the clutch other than it sometimes moves a foot or so when the main fires up. That will teach you to have it in neutral! I would not leave the seat of your tractor while the engine is running without putting the transmission in neutral and reengaging the clutch. That's the best practice anyway. With some damage in the clutch plate, yours could seize at any time and the tractor take off on it's own if you leave it in gear.

[ELutter]

Thank you both for the help. The tractor has been converted to electric start so I start it from the seat. I never leave it in gear if I climb off the tractor.

As for the clutch, I will perform those actions and see what happens.

Thank you again.

Respectfully,

Ernie

[ELutter]

Great suggestions. The plug was loose and only had the three quarts that I put in it. I pulled for the stariner cover and found the bronze thrust washer in about ten pieces. Looks like I found the issue. Anyone know where to buy aftermarket or do I need to buy CAT?

Also, there are to plugs misssing under the dozer under each of the drive clutches. They appear to be about 1-1/4" in diameter. Are these for the crud to clear or are the carrying the oil. Where can these be purchased?
Thank you.
Ernie.

[Old Magnet]

I don't think you will have much choice other than Cat for oil clutch parts.
The plugs can be purchased from McMaster...1-1/4 size (check) is part number 4534K47. These are the flush mount type. Usual trick is to drill 1/4 in. hole and install 3/16 cotter pin wiggler. The compartments are dry type.

[ELutter]

Thank you for the information. I will pay the pretty penny to CAT.

Have a great New Year.

Sincerely,

Ernie

[Ray54]

Regal did have some of the parts for 9u wet clutch three years or so ago.There contact information is in the part sources thread at top of page.Ray

[ELutter]

Thank you. Has anyone heard or TRACPARTS.com?

Happy New Year.

-Ernie