D2 steering clutch replacement
Someone posted recently asking about D2 steering clutch replacement. I started mine this past weekend. This is the fifth time I've replace a clutch, so the work is probably going faster than someone doing it for the first time. The first set of pictures are six hours worth of work. That got me to the point where I could begin pulling the clutch. Note I removed the tracks as a unit. I'll drive out the master link before I do the track install. Previous owner had screwed up the master link. It will be a PITA to remove. The next set of pictures I'll attach are another five hours work, which includes pulling the pack and drilling and tapping holes in the remains of the busted brake drum collar so I could pull it off the shaft.
During the final removal the brake drum busted. First time I had one break, but after seeing the clutch pack, the brake drum would never have slid off and the clutch was never going to break free. The clutch pack was a real mess.
A tip....when you have the puller on the clutch pack, tighten as much as you can, then heat the clutch pack where it mates to the shaft. Then take a hammer and smack the end of threaded rod of the puller. This will cause the pack to pop loose. You have to removed the pivot bolts from the throwout bearing yoke. Then the pack slips off the shaft. I have three spare clutch packs. I'm just going to install the best looking pack. It will be tons better than the left side, which is worn, but still serviceable.
1949 D2-5U w/D2N winch, 1950 D2-5U w/D2N winch, 1952 D2-5U w/ Cat blade, 1955 D2-5U w/ Cat Blade and D2N winch, 1937 RD4 wide gauge (currently non running), 1953 IH Farmall Super-A, Ford 9N, Case 580C, Hyster Sulky.