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Thread: Steering Clutch Removal-D42T

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
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    Indiana
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    Default Steering Clutch Removal-D42T

    OK, my barn is up and plenty of room to work and stay dry. Nothing fancy, but certainly a huge improvement-

    I have been slothing along on my steering clutch removal-I have removed my PCU, the Hyster Winch, and the transmission cover. I do have my manuals, (parts and Servicemans reference).

    The steering clutch assembly is exposed. I have everything removed to pull the clutches except...

    1. Brake lever shaft. Capscrew and lock are out, shaft is not pulled.
    2. Steering Clutch control shaft, (3B238).

    Anyone suggestions on getting the Brake Lever Shaft out AND the Rivet, (4B4352), I would appreciate them.

    It seems that driving the rivet out from underneath should work, but no success. The Brake Lever Shaft on each side are simply stuck.

    I will post some photos soon-

    Thanks in advance-
    bernie

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
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    Corralitos, Ca.
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    Default

    The brake lever shaft has a threaded hole on the outboard end (remove cork) and can be set up with a puller or slide hammer to remove.
    The rivet retainer on the 3B238 is another story.....there is no access to drive it out. It is in a blind hole and if it can't be lifted with a chisel and removed, then its add heat time and try again. If all fails it will need to be drilled out.

  3. #3
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    thanks OM-tight fit in both areas, not much room to work and gain any leverage.

    I have cleaned the threaded holes, the slide hammer is a good idea for the sudden impact to break it loose.

    I am going to try to push the rivet up one more time from underneath with a small hyd jack. no success with trying to pry it up either.

    the only other idea i had, other than drilling it out as you suggested, is tapping a hole in the top of the rivet and trying to turn it out. overcoming that little bit of friction in tight areas can be difficult.

    thanks again-
    bernie
    Last edited by bernie; 07-13-2007 at 09:31 PM. Reason: added info

  4. #4
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    Nov 2006
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    Texas
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    Default Rivet

    The hole for the rivet is a though hole. It can be driven out with a punch from the inside. (small punch and small hammer)

    I have watched your 2T with interest. My first cat iron project was a 2T. The picture is second removal, the clutches were stuck.

  5. #5
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    Indiana
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    Default

    Nice pics BobK-thanks. I worked on it with a punch too, very little swing room. I have not found a jack small enough to fit in the clutch compartment yet. I am not sure that will work-but it seems as though it might.

    I do have another question-when you look at the end of the shaft from the back of the machine, it is threaded with the same thread as the transmission cover bolts-by measurement it appears that the threads stop at the rivet. Am I correct?

    Thanks again-I will edit this and post a link to my picture trail account. I will update photos soon.

    www.picturetrail.com/uid6748227

    bernie
    Last edited by bernie; 07-14-2007 at 08:54 AM. Reason: added link for pics

  6. #6
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    Yes, the hole for pulling the cross shaft is just short of the rivet hole.
    Yes, it is a through hole for the rivet but might as well be blind as there is not really adequate access to do anything. If the rivet is not totally rusted on the shaft, try drilling off the head and pounding it on through, but while you have the drill out just drill on through and then your done with it.

  7. #7
    Join Date
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    Texas
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    Default Rivet

    Bernie, Drill out is generally my last option. I looked at my 2T. With a 3/8" X 2" rod and a 1/2" X 1 1/2" X 12" + bar, I feel like you may be able to move the rivet. The opening provides a good fulcum. Squirt the rivet with PB Buster or the like.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Redmond, Or.
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by bernie View Post
    Bernie, nice pics. Does the pics of your #44Hyd innards look anything like my #46 1W523 would look if I ripped it open to have a look?
    Pics look lots different than books. Your pics are really the first of any of those units I've seen inside.....hope I don't have to too!
    ~and this too shall pass~
    D6 9U6914SP, #46Hyd 1W523, 6A dozer #16C5869
    R945B Liebherr Ex. (part owner)

  9. #9
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    Hi ttman4,
    The #46 is an entirely different animal

  10. #10
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    Nov 2006
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    Default

    I have responded to each of you below-thanks for the input. I am working on the shafts now-I found out today that I can get a slide hammer at PEP BOYS as a loaner...great news as I was not relishing spending $115 on a slide hammer kit. I really thought that once the PCU, winch and transmission case were off, the steering clutch/bevel gear unit would move pretty fast. Those shafts are taking some time.

    BobK: Your solution is a good idea-I was on that trek, but wanted to wait until my son got home to rig it up. Along those lines Archimedes was a pretty smart CAT...

    Again, he [Archimedes] used to say, in the Doric speech of Syracuse : "Give me a place to stand and with a lever I will move the whole world." ELEGE DE KAI DWRISTI FWNH SURAKOUSIA,
    "PA BW KAI CARISTIWNI TAN GAN KINHSW PASAN."

    John Tzetzes (12th century AD)
    Book of Histories (Chiliades) 2, 129-130
    Translated by Francis R. Walton


    Anyway, while I was waiting, I decided to try to tap a hole in the top and use a bolt extractor to remove them-that worked fine-I drilled one down a little far and the head popped off. I just pushed it through the bottom. I like the lever/fulcrum idea better.

    Never having had worked with this "stuff" before it is certainly something new around each corner. No matter big or small.


    ttman4:
    I really do not know...I posted those pics so someone, (like me), who had never been inside and lost his x-ray glasses could have an idea what he might find for the #44 once inside. I will do the same for the steering clucth removal as well.

    OM:
    Thanks

    bernie

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