D6 9U Cranks and Starts on 12V Starter

[WayneB]

51 - 9U11919
Posted back in April that dozer cranked but didn’t start. Fixed my fuel problems and it starts very quickly. I have slobber on one cylinder and that injector will need replaced. Weak but does fire. Will replace injector set. It did not have slobber last year on pull start. Starter turns it very-very fast.
Drove it down for its first pressure wash in no telling how long, certainly a decade or two. I had solid grease-dirt that was dried and well preserved in the belly pan, old sticks and old tools. Pulled the inspection cover off my bell housing before I drove it to the wash area, and watched the clutch as I moved. While it needs adjustment, I also had tranny fluid weep out the top of my tranny. Suspect I have some water in the tranny which accounts for the overfill.

Now for the questions:
Do I need to drop all the fluid or open the bottom and drain just some? I plan on dropping all, but wanted to ask anyway.
My right brake stays locked on steer or braking, must be released by lifting pawl. Simple adjustment? Haven’t pulled that floor pan, but that will happen before I move it out of the wash area.
Have my gear drive alternator that needs installed. Its the CME model with 37A Leese Neville one wire.

I think I have 4 courses of action for winter starting.
1. Glow plugs. Most expensive, most work. & its 12V
2. Perkins preheater tapped into fuel system. Will require tap hole in intake pipe.
3. Ether bottle. I have setup. But this is not my first choice.
4. Electric water engine heater. Plug it in close to the barn, and use a inverter to warm it from my Gator out in the field.

Its a farm dozer. I am leaning toward # 4.

Wayne

[Neil]

I'd lean toward #4 too Wayne. I have a block heater in my F350 and another in my JD 430 lawn tractor (that has a snow blower on it in winter). They fire up just like they had just been running with those block heaters - it has to be a lot easier on the batteries. I don't know how long batteries are supposed to last in Ohio/Western NY but I've never replaced mine in 7 years and cranking down to -10. Ether has it's place but I prefer to use it as a last resort rather than a first resort. The block heaters can run off house power (not in your case but in general) and that never runs low (he said, not yet having a blackout during winter....). Plus, it's just easier - plug it in, have a coffee and breakfast, then go out and crank it up.

Cheers,
Neil.

[gemdozer]

For the transmission you should loosen the drain plug and bevelgear plug too until oil is comming out and you could removed the stering cluch drain plug too they should have water too inside

[WayneB]

I think I will also install a Perkins style flame heater on the Old Pony exhaust pipe which flows thru the intake. That plus the coolant heater should do the trick.

GEM Dozer: thanks. Guess I need 2 FIVE gallon plus 2 quarts to do the job. After cleaning and then get it back in a level area.
The dozer was clean except under the floor pans and in the belly pan.

Problem is I am still cleaning. My belly pan was full of dirt, old tools, rocks, wood, tree limbs matted with oil. Found a nice older craftsman ratchet (not mine), putty knife, several screwdrivers.
Parked it on a hill to drain out the rear, and that helped. Had to move the dozer when the pile got up to the pan...

Sidebar comment:
I have cranked and started the Dozer six times today without charging the battery. I am using ONE Odessey 2250 Glass Mat battery. I still have 12.85 volts and I was originally only charging 13.5. My alternator I have to install won't work too hard.

Now for a question: I have several Operator and Maintenance Instuction books which show procedures for adjusting clutch brake on oil clutch models, but does not have procedures for the dry clutch brake, only procedure for gaining SNAP in the main clutch. What are the procedures for dry clutch transmission brakes?

Wayne

[Old Magnet]

There is no adjustment for the dry clutch transmission brake. Just functions when the clutch lever is pushed all the way forward and the two plates are in contact.

[ol Grump]

As far as the right hand brake pawl/parking brake locking in, I think you'll find there's a broken/missing spring under the floorboard.

[WayneB]

Really appreciate the assistance with advice. The way the books are written is not specific.
First thing I will do is adjust my clutch and get my SNAP back.

I'm still cleaning my belly pans. While I am there and have it park nose uphill, I will clean the pans and get all the dirt and stuff all out.

My spring is good on that right brake at least the one shown in the book. I will get the measurement right on the pedal and eliminate the simple stuff.

I am just tickled that I have the fuel problem solved and it starts so easy.

Wayne

[rmyram]

check your clutch brake to make sure it still has lining on it and that the lining isn't soaked in oil. a lot of people used the clutch brake to try and stop the cat and would wear them out prematurely, the only time the clutch brake should be used is going from neutral with the cat stopped to get the tractor into gear. it is also common for the right hand brake to have more wear as most people use th right brake to stop the cat moving when they go to change direction.

[WayneB]

My clutch brake is in excellent condition. I will clean with brake cleaner. My clutch "SNAP" needs adjustment. Will adjust the right brake. Think I remember reading online somewhere (other than ACMOC)that a right brake that needs adjusting will often lock and correcting adjustment will ensure it stops before getting to autolock level.

My plans for this weekend are to finish cleaning. Adjust Main clutch SNAP and Right Brake and then installing gear-drive 12 alternator and wiring that in before I move it. Then I will move out of wash area to where I will service it and drop/change fluids when I get more time.

check your clutch brake to make sure it still has lining on it and that the lining isn't soaked in oil. a lot of people used the clutch brake to try and stop the cat and would wear them out prematurely, the only time the clutch brake should be used is going from neutral with the cat stopped to get the tractor into gear. it is also common for the right hand brake to have more wear as most people use th right brake to stop the cat moving when they go to change direction.

[WayneB]

Adjusted my dry-clutch. The SNAP is back. Procedure in my book is spot-on. Loosen 3/4" adjusting collar retainer, place transmission in gear, and rotate collar assembly clockwise in degree increments. Tighten collar nut and recheck SNAP. Drove it from my wash area and pushed up a stump, ensuring it would hold and spin the tracks.

Installed my gear drive alternator. Smiple installation. Charges well. Probably overkill, but I used automotive battery cable for one-wire and grounds.

Drilled and tapped all my floor plate mounting holes. Scraped and pressure washed tranny before re-installing floor plates with new bolts.

Adjusted right and left brakes. Good brakes. Solved the right-brake lock problem.

Have new problem; a small leak developed on radiator oil cooler. Probably just as well, the radiator fins were collagulated with dirt. While more a weep than gush, will continue servicing and wait on that repair till time to change oil.

Earlier this week--ordered ONE glow-plug pre-combustion chamber and 12V glow plug for compatability check. The intent is to replace all injectors as well, but wanted to check out the glow plug possibility.

Have dozer parked near my shop door. Will weld on the root-rake mounts to the blade. She'll get a good greasing and tranny-rear end fluid swap.

Things that Check-out: Fuel gage pegs, clutch and clutch brake, left-and right brakes adjusted as well lateral steering adjusted to specs. Starts quickly on 12V starter, charges battery well, and other than the mentioned oil cooler, no leaks.

Getting closer to clearing some ground for pasture.

Wayne