Glad to hear you are checking out the 12v glow plug fit.....curious to see what you find. Do you have a 3H2033 for comparison?
Pretty sure thread size is the same but don't know on the stepped diameters and length. Do have some new 3H2033's here if dimensions are needed.
Appreciate that !
Thanks for the offer of help.
No, I do not have a 3H2033 for comparison. Will post back after parts arrive and take you up on that offer.
Today, I am welding on the brackets for my root rake. Have everything centered, brackets tacked, and now laying in the weld.
Originally Posted by Old Magnet
Also, finished drilling and tapping floor-plate holes. Cleaned and greased all the BR points. Will do the corn-grease points later.
Tomorrow, I will pull the radiator for the cooler repair. Radiator needs hot-tanked, its matted with old dirt. Weep isn't new, hence the matted/oily dirt in fins.
Is that oil cooler leak near the top?......been known to have the vent valve leak, forget to close, vibrate loose or the seat gets buggered up....makes a big mess but start from the top.
Last edited by Old Magnet; 05-21-2012 at 08:56 AM.
Oil Cooler Leak
Leak is at the bottom. I have already taken off the top cover. Clean.
I'm driving it back to the wash area, will pull; then wash down area in front of radiator and oil blown by fan onto engine.
Again, either way, this thing needs hot-tanked. the fins are collagualated with dirt, that won't blow out.
Combustion chamber and 12v plug should have arrived. Will post when I open and measure.
Root rake welded on
Centered and welded the root rake brackets on for free-pin installation over last weekend.
I have 18" clearance on root teeth when raised.
Driving it back to the wash area to pull the radiator for repair and clean up the front.
Will do that tomorrow and get that cooler in the shop.
I guess it goes without asking that the fan blade has to come off. I am pulling it for paint anyway.
This readiator job plus the previous pony motor removal should give me enough antifreeze for a set of weighted tractor tires.
Made a new posting on 12V pencil glow plug search.
Thanks for the help. Makeing progress.
Oil Cooler was non-repairable
I too am D6 9U victim of oil cooler metal fatigue, and previous cooler repairs that come back to bite.
Removed radiator, separated cooler from radiator and tested after cleaning. Previous silver-solder repair of cooler center outside tube had soldered first tube to second and so-on.
Found a new cooler from John Parks in Idaho, should be in by end of week.
Interesting note after talking to John. Cooler came off a "TURBO" 318. John has an opinion on turbo-ing 318s. DON'T DO IT! He says every TURBO D6 or 318 that comes in, he junks it. TURBO ruins engine. Cuts life by 50% he says with only 10% extra power. To turbo the 318, he says, change pistons to the heat sink type and intercool if permissable. And rebuild bottom end.
I was curious, but have no intentions of doing it to mine. I just wanted an oil cooler, equilizer pony spring and D6 square emblem....
Had that same conversation with John P. a few years back. Same conclusion. Cat did manage to build about 1,000 #14 "hotrod" graders with turbo D318's but never did hear much feedback about them. Most of the ones seen were Garret turbo conversions that just bolted on externally without the internal upgrades and they did not fare quite so well. Especially the ones mounted to an already tuckered out engine. Most of the incentive was fuel savings as I recall. Still makes for some interesting day dreaming...
Oil Cooler & Radiator Installed
The oil cooler I received from John in Idaho was like new. The coolers tubes were rust free and still have good original grey paint.
No previous repairs. While I had the radiator out, I cleaned up the front of the engine and painted it and the CCU.
Ran a tap in every bolt hole, and blew out the holes. Wire brushed it. Painted the radiator shell.
Went back in easy and I hardly got dirty.
Question on the pony equilizers: They seem to have a washer to hold them on.
How do you get this off. Heat? Reverse install?