Things to do when removing 3J D2 engine

[Neil]

I'm going to pull the main engine next week. I understand that I need to disconnect the fuel line, block the transmission etc safely, remove the main spring and then undo the clutch housing bolts. Is there anything that I need to undo inside the clutch compartment? I'm assuming that the clutch will remain on the flywheel and the transmission input shaft will just back out of it as I pull the engine forward. However, the parts manual shows a big nut on the front of the shaft just behind the pilot bearing. This would indicate to me that the clutch will stay with the shaft as the flywheel moves away. That might be a bit of an issue for me as the clutch was fairly seized up. How easy are they "normally" to slide out?
I have a 20 ton forklift doing the heavy lifting and I'll put a chain fall on it for fine adjustment.
Any other tips etc?
Can I sit the engine on its sump once I remove it?
Last, other than the pilot bearing and trans input, are there any other parts that I should replace? I see that one or more of the clutch links are missing and I suspect jamming in the bottom of the compartment so I know I'll need them for sure.
Is there a bimetallic disk that I could install like the steering clutches use? That would avoid any future seizures.

Cheers,
Neil.

[Old_n_slo]

Good luck with your engine pull. While I can't offer any tips, I'll sure tip a frosty beverage your way and hope you educate us with pictures along the way.

[shovel man]

The clutch will stay on the transmission input shaft I would replace two of the bolts securing the engine to transmission with 4 inch long half inch UNC
bolts with the heads cut of to help keep alignment as you draw the engine out, if the clutch is rusted bad then your more likely to strip all the teeth
on the fibre drive plate when you pull the engine.

shovel man.

[Neil]

Thanks Shovel Man, good advice. I'm missing at least one link set to the cam arms but hopefully they're in the bottom of the compartment. It looks like the thrust bearing is just a bronze collar. Would it be the case that unless it's actually totally flogged out, I don't need to replace it?
Cheers,
Neil.

[shovel man]

Neil,

From memory the trust collar is in two halfs if the sides of the collar are worn thin you will need to replace,
but if there is only a small amount of play it should go again.

shovel man.

[catsilver]

use your lift truck to pick the rear end up and sit it on two 12" blocks under the sprockets, undo the two main spring nuts and lift the front end until it is level and clear of the spring, remove the dash, side guards and hood, release the fenders from the flywheel housing and disconnect the fuel line at the pump inlet. Block the transmission under the clutch and engine under the front end, re-sling to lift just the engine, remove the pony pulley, take out the flywheel housing bolts and take the engine away with your lift truck..

[timbo1946]

Neil,

I have the manual to move the engine. Do you want barrow? Call me 585-356-4264. Leaving for Dayton OH Monday morning

[Neil]

Tim,
I'm good - I have the serviceman's books for the engine and the chassis but thanks for the offer!. OH - I may be heading down there myself for a bit of work next month, but for now, I'm enjoying tinkering with this piece of junk, er - magnificent engineering!

The good news - I removed the engine today and it went very smoothly. I have it parked in at the sandblasters, and he has about a dozen forklifts so we used one of those and after we wiggled it up and down a dozen times and then I got the screwdrivers in as wedges (gently of course), it came right apart. About 4 teeth broke off the drive plate, which I expected. Question is, how many broken is the threshold for buying a new plate from General Gear for 150 clams?

I cleaned all the mouse house makings out and removed the clutch assembly from the transmission input shaft and have it at home ready to clean up tomorrow. Milton Cat is sending me new bearings etc, which I'll fit in that input shaft and the pilot bearing. I'll need to free up the clutch mechanism but it's missing one of the four set of clutch actuating links. Does someone have some that they would part with, plus the two pins? Also, does the vertical clutch actuating shaft have a bushing in the bottom as well as the top? The parts book doesn't show one.

The clutch brake looks good so that'll stay. I'll get the dial gauge on the crank end-play and measure it. Max end clearance at the center bearing is 20 thou but I'm pretty sure I have at least double that, which leads me to the

Bad news - the engine doesn't turn more than about 40 degrees. Within that it turns very easily, and then basically jams up. I'll put the side covers tomorrow but I'm suspecting a thrown rod. Best case is I can just replace that rod and get back in business. Worst case is find another D3400.
I drained some of the diesel and it smelt nasty and stale, so I'll drain the tank, have my man put a new skin on the back, and I'll drain and flush the injection system, and make up a new copper fuel line with a join and valve next to the pony clutch and one next to the fuel transfer pump.

Anyway, more news (and photos) tomorrow. Good times, good times... (man it was stinkin' hot today, and I forgot to take along a refreshing, ice-cold beverage of my choice....). However, the neighbour just announced that they opened their pool this week so I'm golden for Memorial weekend!

Cheers,
Neil.

[zootownjeepguy]

Neil, if your engine only turns about 40 degrees I'd bet that you have a couple Stuck Valves.

[Neil]

I like the sound of that! I'll drop by today and see if they all depress. Even if the valves are bent, that seems like something easier to fix than the bottom end.

By the way, four of the teeth are broken off the fiber main clutch drive plate - is that enough to cause me to replace the plate? Also, there is a crack in the rear thrust plate. The book says to replace it and would you all agree?

Cheers,
Neil.