Things to do when removing 3J D2 engine

[zootownjeepguy]

If you only have 4 teeth broken off the fiber clutch disk, I wouldn't worry about it too much unless you're going to work it really hard. If your Pressure Plate is cracked, I'd definitely be looking for a new one!

[Neil]

Knowing me, I'll probably spring for all new stuff....
Anyway, following the suggestion about stuck valves, I went and checked it today. No stuck valves but I took the left side inspection plates off and noticed two things:
- the 45-ish degrees is either side of TDC/BDC
- some rust weeps down from #2 cylinder

So my hypothesis is that #2 pre-combustion chamber leaked long enough so that there's rust in the cylinder and that would explain why it sort of binds up rather than clunks to a dead stop. So, my question is: what's the least invasive way of removing that liner, if I can't clean it up sufficiently with the piston in situ? Do I have to remove the crank to pull out the piston? I recall seeing that the big end is too big to come up the liner, which tells me it has to come out the bottom, but can I get it out without removing the crank?

Also, I noticed that the top shells of the main bearings are a little loose in the saddle - not a lot but enough to notice. I'm going to just leave them alone unless someone tells me I have to change them. It doesn't look like the bearing caps are shimmed so I'd say I have no adjustment there? Other than that, the bottom end actually looked pretty good and clean.

Last, would someone be able to lend me the injector removal tool that's made of the socket with the piece cut out? Or should I just go ahead and have one made? I'm assuming that I have at least one precombustion chamber to replace or reseal. Are they available from Cat or is Florin the way to go?

Cheers,
Neil.

[drujinin]

Yes, pistons will come out and go back in from the bottom. Seen as you maybe doing some bearing work, I'd recommend pulling the oil pan and pulling the piston. Through the inspection cover is a really tight squeeze.
Jeff

[Neil]

Thanks Jeff - do I have to remove the crank to pull the piston and rod?
Cheers
Neil.

[zootownjeepguy]

Haven't tried it yet myself, but word on the street is: Yes, Piston & Rod will get past the crank with a little "finagling".

[sbybee]

Neil I have just put my d2 3J engine back in with a different flywheel, clutch,trans shaft,brake etc. Am now waiting for word on water pump repair or replacement. Anyway my clutch mechanism was about the only thing that cleaned up allright. The housing had filled up with water and rusted everything bad. I soaked the actuator in evapo-rust and it seems fine. I don't have the thrust bearing but I got an extra used clutch disk from Jim Zimmerman that seems good. If interested contact me here or 559 877-7831. I live in the exact center of California. steve

[Neil]

Thanks Steve, let me check a line I have on one here first and I'll get back to you. I actually need most of the clutch (front plate with the three little springs is really really rusted on the drive surface. Has anyone ever tried planing one? I thought it might get pricey because the spline boss is integral. You'd probably need a 9 inch lathe. Rear plate is cracked right through on one side from OD to ID. I need some pins and links that were missing) so I'm thinking if I get a complete takeout, that'll give me everything I need, but if the drive plate is dodgy, I'll pick up yours if that works.

Does anyone know if the U-series dry clutch is the same as the J-series?

Once the clutch is done, I'll need to start on the #2 cylinder as I think the pre-combustion chamber let go, then I'll refit the engine with a new spring pack underneath and see if I can get it to run (I realize that I've just described about three years' elapsed time : )

Cheers,
Neil.

[Neil]

Forgot to say that I have a bunch of new bearings coming from Milton so that's the other order of business... I'll get some photos next week as I've been a bit remiss. Nobody likes just text...

Cheers,
Neil.