I bought some Cat Black paint in Oregon and they said it was a different formula thaan what is available in california.Can I cover over oil based Rustolium?? The parts man said that the only Antique Yellow that was available was the formulation that was approved for California. I have read on the web site that hardner can be used to inhance some paints. Will this work with the Cat paint, and if so how much should I use, or is there a better alturnative in a reerasonable price range??Last question, what is a good primer to use??? Thank you in advance for any help... RT
Just had a post on that subject a few posts back. Due to the significant difference in formulation I don't think it would be a good idea to use the Cat paint over Rustoleum but using it on top of seasoned Cat paint is probably ok.
Cat doesn't list a hardner for their enamel paint, apparently they don't think it is necessary. Can't recall whether Rustoleum offers a hardner or not, I'd have to look it up or maybe someone already knows.
Depends on how you want to go with the primer and what you are using for finish coat. The Cat primer is good. Myself I use a zinc rich coating as a primer (make sure it is compatible). Seems to be more of a trend towards not using any primer at all.
Don't know about Oregon but the California paint business is upside down in turmoil over the latest VOC regulations. Many of the old standbys are just not available here anymore.
Zinc Rich Primaer
Russ, My vote is for using Zinc Rich primer. I have used it on other restorations with excellent results. It used to be sold mostly at welding supply shops, but now it is available almost everywhere. I see that my local Home Depot even carries it now in spray cans. I normally by my Rustoleum Old CAT Yellow and Zinc Rich Primer from www.Zorotools.com. Happy painting. Ray
Watch who's zinc rich primer you use....I seem to recall the Rustoleum brand is not recommended as a primer.
I am about to use a product called "Galvax" by Alvin Products, same folks that make "Lab Metal". Ain't cheap at about $112/gal but was about the same as the urethane base version I was using but now strangled by the envirowhackos. Do get your moneys worth weight wise, gallon weighs almost 30 lbs.
My theory is put the money in a corrosion resistent primer then it dosn't matter what crap finish coat your forced to use.
Another source for zinc rich primer is a supplier for concrete restoration. We use it here in Chicago to coat exposed rebar that has been sandblasted to remove residual rust prior to pouring new patches in high rise buildings.
933 42A, D4 7U, 2- D2 5U, 2- D2 4U, PV 15, LaPlante Choate C-20 scraper, and always with an eye out for more
Just used the "Galvex" product this AM. I like it, flows well into the nooks and crannies, levels itself out nicely, ready to use out of can (after ride in the paint shaker)...drys to the touch in one hour, recoat in 12 hrs.
My process is to take the gallon and pour it into 1-quart mason jars so I can use in handier portions and not have to be so concerned about the product skinning over in the can or settling.
Big advantage over the urethane version is there isn't a big race before the moisture curing product sets up to where you can hardly use it.