Pony disengages under slight load

[D2Dwyer]

I seem to have a probelm with the spelling of problem, there, thats better. The starter pinion had to be pulled after I rebuilt the pony last year because I couldn't get it to stay engaged after closing the compression release. So I put on a new set of release dogs. Do you need to keep tightening them until they hold, or did I overlook another step when I had it apart? Not looking forward to taking it apart again. Any suggestions?

The rebuilt magneto sure did the trick last week! I was a little surprised by the $90 charge for points and the condensor, but like the guy said, "It didn't work before, it does now" I guess it beats pulling the cord all day to try to start it.

[TerryinNorCal]

Hi D2 Dwyer...last I checked you do not need to re-adjust once set up from the get go. You did not state if you had previosly set the release tension, and they have somehow loosened, or whatever. Each turn of the screw clockwise is equivelent to 100/150 rpm. Make sure you start off evenly on each screw on initial set and subsequent adjustments. Set them deep enough to recieve the cotter holding pin, and work from there. I have done this adjustment thru the inspection cover ( the round cover, approx 2 1/2 inch in diameter) with a long nosed needle nose plier for the cotter pins. Use the brake on the pinion housing to keep it from rolling on you, ( you may want to wedge it locked with a chunk of wood), and perform your surgery like a good dentist! Otherwise, you are stuck with pulling it out and adjusting a half turn at a time and trial and error. But above all, take your time so you do not want to set it too high where overspeeding from not releasing will tear up your pony.

[D2Dwyer]

I always had trouble with it for years, and it was worse after i rebuilt the pony. It couldn't stand up to all the fresh torque and would jump out. I hope I can get it set without pulling it back out. The screws are turned in enough to pin, maybe I need to try a few more turns?

[SJ]

Did you line the latches up so they centered on the stop the part they hook on to? Sometimes the stop needs replacing too if worn.Also the spring between the latch screws needs to be good so it holds them engaged till it reaches the point of disengaging with the speed.It should work if all these parts are good.Usually the screws are right to start out with if they are down in flush with the sleeve that they screw into. The extra bolt holes in the sleeve gives you the correct position to line up the latches with the stop as you don,t just bolt the sleeve on at any point.

[TerryinNorCal]

On turning the screws in farther....yes. As described above, check the items SJ has mentioned . You may not have to pull it out, try to engage pinion thru the inspection hole w/ a large screwdriver. Once engaged, try to pop it out by flexing/pushing with same screwdriver to see if it pops out from wear. If not, manually disengage the latches by pushing on the screw end ( if you noticed on re-assembly, the dogs have matching release guides that will assist the other side to move somewhat equally). If all is good, just remember that each turn in on the screw equals 100 to 150 rpm increase in disengagement rpm. As I recall, the release point is just about even, but on the upper fringe of the max rpm set by the pony governor. So if unsure, do the starting routine just up to the point of turning the decompression off with pony at max rpm by throttle and governor set, then give the pony a blip on the carb linkage to "spike" the rpm, and it should kick out. This is much safer than starting the diesel and overspeeding this way, as shutting down the main would be just about long enough to make a connecting rod pay a visit to the outside world. Best of luck, and keep us posted!

[D2Dwyer]

Can anyone say what the pony max rpm's are? My governor is iffy, i don't even know if it would work. Scary, and it's after halloween. I think i will try a half turn saturday and see what happens. If the engagement button the dogs grab is a little smooth and worn, that could be a problem I am thinking. Maybe filing the back side would have helped when I had it out. Going electric is looking better every day, but that is not authentic.

[edb]

Hi D2Dwyer,
the pony is rated :- 10hp @ 3000 rpm. This should be turning the main at approx. 335 rpm to get a good clean start.
Hope this helps,
Cheers,
Eddie B.

[ccjersey]

The governor is pretty simple. a little oil and it should do fine. you can remove the cover on the face of the pulley and put just the amount of oil that will fill the pulley and run out the screw holes for the cover when one is turned to the low point. Not hard to remove the back end and lube a little in there if you want. I put perhaps a teaspoonful in the back and I think it worked all through the thing, but I did the front cover as well when I read the book. I got an oily pulley so I know there's enough in there to last the next 50 years.

The lever should move freely and snap back by the spring tension. The spring pulls the throttle open and the governor weights close it back as the engine reaches set speed.

Also the throttle control rod you use to speed up and slow down the engine should reach across the pivot screw on the carburetor throttle crank and pull the throttle closed when you pull out on the knob. When you push in on the knob, it allows the governor room to pull the throttle open if necessary to reach the full rpm. With No load, it won't need all the travel, but when you close the decompression, the governor will have to open the throttle a lot more.