D2 Injector Removal

[54D2]

II have a D2 5U15284. I want to check out/clean the injectors, and when I put a wrench on the injector, the whole precombustion chamber turned. I drained the coolant and removed the assembly.

How do I get the precombustion chamber/injector assembly apart, and how do I install the precombustion chamber back into the head?

Thanks for any suggestions

[SJ]

Your chamber must have been loose to begin with as they are torques down in at 200 lbs.Was your engine overheated or not. To get the nozzle out there is just that nut that holds the nozzle down and screws in the top of the chamber and they are torques at 110 lbs.You will need new seals and bottom metal gasket for the bottom of the chamber where it screws into the head.You even could have a cracked head if the chamber came out with the nozzle hold down nut if it was that loose unless someone never torqued them in correctly.It might be a good idea to remove them all & reseal them. Let us know if you need anymore help and one of us will get back to you.

[Old Magnet]

Couple of pictures always helps
Here is a cross section of what you are dealing with and the Cat tools suggested....not that you have to have all of them but it gives you an idea of what has to be done, where you can apply pressure if you use a press etc.
Toughest part is to grip the chamber so that you can undo the body retainer nut.

Check the pre-com threads in the head closely.

[54D2]

Thanks for the reply. I appreciate your sharing your pictures and knowledge with me.

I agree the 2 pre-com chambers I checked were not torqued to 200 ft-lbs. I'll go ahead and remove the others.

Do you have any suggestions on holding the pre-com chamber during disassembly? Would the application of some heat help? I realize the gaskets, etc. would be damaged, but they aren't reuseable anyway. I sure don't want to ruin anything.

[SJ]

If the other chambers might not be tight then to save big problems down the road take them all out and reseal them and put them in right.Where the big outside seals seal against the head surface use some white Lubra-Plate or waterless hand soap on the seal & the head surface it sets against & the threads on the chamber and head cover them good with anti-seize compound.

[ccjersey]

I think the only way to hold the two piece chambers is to clamp the lower part in a vise, maybe with some wood pads and use an impact wrench to unscrew the injector hold down nut. best to have a 6 point socket for that.

If you use heat, then you will certainly have to reseal the joint between the two pieces, but that would be better anyway. The problem is that the top piece shields the part that you need to heat, and that the lower part of the main section is brazed onto the top part of the main section, so you can't get it very hot. or it will come apart.

You might have luck with some kind of penetrating rust buster if you have time to let it work.

[DCurrin]

my thoughts on this is as follows.

Get a piece of 3/4 x 3" x 16" steel barstock

Drill a hole for tapping 1"-12 (do not tap yet) about 1" from one end and centered.

from the other end cut a slot about 1/2" wide. almost to the hole. Leave about 1/2" material at drilled hole.
This slot could be torch cut.

Now we need to finish the slot.
Either with a hacksaw or jig or other nice cutting tool. Cut a 1/4" wide slot from the large slot to the drilled hole.

You should now have piece that looks like it has a keyhole in it that runs out one end of the stock.

Now in the edge of the piece and away from the drilled end drill and tap one leg for a 3/8 bolt. You can remove/relieve most of the threads from the outside. Leave at least 1/2" of threads. Get a good bolt (grade 8) that is long enough to go through the hole and push against the other side.
Bolt needs a lot of threads on it.
Insert 3/8 bolt and tighten. Spread the legs as far as you reasonably can.
We are not trying to split it with this, just change the shape of the drilled hole.

A taper hand tap 1"-12 is available at www.mcmaster.com about $56.00
OM please confirm tap size
I believe this is correct as per other OM posts.

Now with the legs spread on the holder. Tap the hole 1"-12. This will not be the most fun because the interruped cut.
(You could place a piece of 1/2" tacked onto and above the hole with the another tap drill hole in it. Then tap through both pieces. The top piece is only needed for guiding the tap. Remove when finished tapping.)

Clean up the piece and you should have a tool to hold the precumbustion chambers.

To use:
Spread legs of tool. (Same width as when tapped or slightly more)
Screw in Precumbustion chamber.
Undo/remove jack bolt.
Secure tool in vise.
Remove top nut.

This could be made with a 1'-12 nut but I could not find one.
Although I did not search long. The principle would be the same.
Clamping around the threaded nose of the chamber.

I do not know what tools or your skill level you have available.
A machine shop could mill this out but would most likely still have to buy the tap.

Cheers
Dudley

[OldNuc]

A tap from ENCO is cheaper and will work fine for this job. Also, you can buy one nut from Bolt Depot, http://www.boltdepot.com/product.aspx?cc=7&cs=9&cm=7

I would try and build a decent sized order as the UPS for one nut will make it very valuable.

[Old Magnet]

The 1" - 12 tpi is correct.
I was thinking of clamping the chamber in a pipe vise......

[SJ]

I can,t believe that that nut would be so tight in there unless it,s so corroded up. I think the air wrench and socket is the way to go and then there,s seals inside the retainer that goes around the stem of the chamber itself unless it has one piece chambers in it which I doubt.If it is the two piece then a spacer has to be dropped in the chamber hole after the nozzle is removed & the big stud used to pull the retainer off the chamber body.This is just a thought but I,m wondering if the chamber and retainer were boiled in water for a while if the seal would soften up and the retainer would come off easier from the chamber body.