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Thread: Caterpillar 951c replacement seal converter.

  1. #1
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    Default Caterpillar 951c replacement seal converter.

    Hello everyone. My 951c crawler loader gets a lot of oil from the converter. I wanted to know how to drive it without dismantling half a car. Loses where the flywheel is engaged. I enclose photo. Thank you all.
    IMG_20190506_200353.jpg

  2. #2
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    Removing the flex coupling flange and biscuits will give you access to remove and replace the torque converter seal.

  3. #3
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    With the couplings off and flange removed you can usually get some form of pry bar in there to remove the seal.
    Putting a new one in is best done with a puller of sorts. There is not much room there to work. I use an old bearing shell, a flat bar and two 3/8 bolts of the correct length to pull the seal into place.

  4. #4
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    Thank you.
    so I have to remove the rubber supports and remove the joint?
    should I unscrew bolts from the converter?
    you have some guidance, I think I didn't understand the procedure well.

  5. #5
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    Hello.
    I removed the support.
    The oil comes out of the central hole of the toothed pinion. I put a bolt to keep out the oil drops.I don't have to close that hole right?

    The seal to put and this 1d4326?
    I attach photo.
    thank youIMG-20190511-WA0003.jpgIMG-20190511-WA0000.jpgIMG-20190511-WA0001.jpg

    Thanks you
    Last edited by uisum; 05-11-2019 at 04:05 AM.

  6. #6
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    1D4326 is the correct seal number. Also a National Seal #455002 or a CR/SKF #25641.
    There is a plug # 5S3585 in the flange that contains the oil when assembled. Allows for spline lubrication.
    Also would be a good time to check coupling alignment between engine and torque converter. It's fairly common for things to get out of alignment and you wind up eating the rubber biscuits.
    Last edited by Old Magnet; 05-11-2019 at 09:08 AM.

  7. #7
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    As Old Magnet says, do not block that hole.
    1D2436 is correct.
    Check the shaft for play to make sure you don't have a bearing on its way out.
    Remove two of the four bolts around the seal housing, and make up some sort of puller, and use those holes to pull the seal in. Sorry, I don't have a photo of my set up, but it is just an old bearing cage with a flat bar behind it with two bolts to pull the seal in.
    Your engine alignment is probably ok if those rubber couplings have been in there for some time and have no cracks showing.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Old Magnet View Post
    1D4326 is the correct seal number. Also a National Seal #455002 or a CR/SKF #25641.
    There is a plug # 5S3585 in the flange that contains the oil when assembled. Allows for spline lubrication.
    Also would be a good time to check coupling alignment between engine and torque converter. It's fairly common for things to get out of alignment and you wind up eating the rubber biscuits.
    Hello thank you.
    I have not found, disassembling the joint on 5s3585. do I have to enter it again?
    For the rest it was easy enough to extract the oil seal.

    if I can I would like to ask you another thing or maybe another post is better.
    the ignition pump loses from the last BUSHING-TERMINAL 4N0218 (it loses from the thread). I overhauled it closed and no longer loses. The loss is passed to another BUSHING. There seems to be too much pressure. In fact the engine makes a lot of smoke.
    Can I adjust something?
    I saw that at the beginning of the pump there is a bolt with a screw I can adjust something.
    THANK YOU very much.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Glum View Post
    As Old Magnet says, do not block that hole.
    1D2436 is correct.
    Check the shaft for play to make sure you don't have a bearing on its way out.
    Remove two of the four bolts around the seal housing, and make up some sort of puller, and use those holes to pull the seal in. Sorry, I don't have a photo of my set up, but it is just an old bearing cage with a flat bar behind it with two bolts to pull the seal in.
    Your engine alignment is probably ok if those rubber couplings have been in there for some time and have no cracks showing.
    Hello thank you
    yes the cookies are OK and the converter shaft has no strange movements.
    now I have to solve the pump problem.
    when I turn on the engine it seems that some piston starts late. then everyone turns on, but smokes a lot, doesn't crack well.
    under strain he does not lose laps, he seems poorly aligned ..

  10. #10
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    Yes you need the 5S3585 plug otherwise it will leak oil again. If the plug wasn't there that's probably the source of your leak.

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