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Thread: Retrofitting new hydraulics

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Central Me.
    Posts
    198

    Default

    I would also vote for rebuild what you have or have matching parts built. On this side of the puddle there are many shops that can build any Tube /Rod combination. Maybe your Gland nut is ok and the Rod that would leave just the Tube.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Gold Coast, Queensland, Australia
    Posts
    4,722

    Default Your Problem?????????????

    Hi, Dave-o.
    Is your problem as big as this guy's problem????????????? LOL.

    A 'SLIGHT' Hydraulic Problem_1_PI.jpg

    I think yer could fairly safely call that a hydraulic ram problem.

    Just my 0.02.
    You have a wonderful day. Best wishes.

    Deas Plant.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Location
    NSW Australia
    Posts
    19

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    Quote Originally Posted by Deas Plant. View Post
    Hi, Dave-o.
    Is your problem as big as this guy's problem????????????? LOL.

    A 'SLIGHT' Hydraulic Problem_1_PI.jpg

    I think yer could fairly safely call that a hydraulic ram problem.

    Just my 0.02.
    Operator neglect. Clearly the main pin needed another half dozen or so tubes of grease pumped into it..

    I'm located around Sydney's North West. Will travel for parts.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Gold Coast, Queensland, Australia
    Posts
    4,722

    Default Anti-Burst Not Working???????????????????

    Hi, Dave-o.
    I don't think so. I think it is more likely that the (non-existant) anti-burst valve didn't work.

    There is an ACMOC chapter, Chapter 28, a bit North and West of you (by guesswork). You can find their contact details here:

    http://www.acmoc.org/bb/showthread.p...8-Meeting-Date

    You may well find some help there. Seems these danged ACMOC chapters get pretty seriously infested with helpful types. No known deterrent for 'em yet either.

    Just my 0.02.
    You have a wonderful day. Best wishes.

    Deas Plant.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Colorado Springs and Waitsburg WA
    Posts
    945

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    Quote Originally Posted by Deas Plant. View Post
    Hi, Dave-o.
    Is your problem as big as this guy's problem????????????? LOL.

    A 'SLIGHT' Hydraulic Problem_1_PI.jpg

    I think yer could fairly safely call that a hydraulic ram problem.

    Just my 0.02.
    Did that blow because of pressure? What else could it have been? Must been very high
    John Liebermann
    2 9U's, 5J, IHC544, Ford860, (All working farm tractors)
    cojhl2@gmail.com

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Location
    Southwest Missouri Ozarks
    Posts
    219

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    instead of one modern size cylinder on each put two

    double the volume
    Cat D47U
    Allis Chalmers HD3
    No more JD 1010, IH T340

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Gold Coast, Queensland, Australia
    Posts
    4,722

    Default Wottdunnitt???????????

    Hi, cojhl2.
    IF I hadta make a guess, I'd guess atta previous repair not done completely. If you look at the very bottom of the cylinder, you may see what appears to be a patch of weld right at the base of the crack. I suspect that it may have spread up from there.

    I'm no weld repair 'ex-spurt' but, if I'm right, the previous repair would have been done without drilling a small hole at the top end of the original crack to stop it travelling further, filling that hole in along with the rest of repair and then have the cylinder bored in the area of the repair. If this was what was done, the basis of the original crack would still have been there to give birth to that 'dis-a$$-ter'.

    Extreme pressures LURRRRVE faults.

    Just my 0.02.
    You have a wonderful day. Best wishes.

    Deas Plant.

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
    Location
    Dungay NSW Australia
    Posts
    192

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    Looks to me like the rod bent inside the cylinder and it split the side of the bore. In the hole where you can see inside the cylinder the rod is not straight. Whatever happened I would not like to have been near it when it let go.

    Regards

    Phil
    D6-5R, D6-4R, D8 15A x 3, 955K Tracked Loader, 944A Wheel Loader, 305CE Excavator, XQE20 Generator

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Location
    Bakersfield, CA
    Posts
    629

    Default

    Back to the original post/ question....
    Like others have stated - those look pretty good to me ! Knowing absolutely nothing about hydraulics, i took apart the cylinders on a 1963 TD15 that were leaking like a sieve. The chrome arms were pitted and scored, the barrels were pitted and rusted on the inside. I took a cylinder hone the barrels and did what I could - hit the high spots. I took a file to the arms and “cleaned em up”.

    I took the seals to the Hydraulic shop and I recall they had them matched up for a bout $60.00. Put it together and no leaks. Took about 4-5 hrs total.

    I’m not as anal rententive as some ( no offense !) but if if had to do that every 3 years I would instead of big bucks on a hobby tractor.

    Big Plus: now I know ALMOST nothing about hydraulics !

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Elkhorn, WI
    Posts
    3,739

    Default Comment

    As far as the Clevis ends, a modern 1.5 inch with a hardened pin and a bushing in the Arm hole would probably be just as strong as the original 2 inch pin of questionable hardness?

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