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Thread: D6 Pony Motor Pinion Issue

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    NW Ohio
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    3,202

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    Quote Originally Posted by Old Magnet View Post
    A chewed up pinion gear and matching chewed up flywheel ring gear is usually the result of improper operation of the pony motor by not reducing rpm during engagement along with use of the pinion brake to avoid grinding of the gears. An overall smooth working system gives the engagement mechanism best chances of survival.
    Yep!!! there's plenty of good quality videos on youtube showing improper starting procedures for starting diesels with starting engines. lol

  2. #12
    Join Date
    May 2019
    Location
    Shandon, California. Near the home of the Best of the West Tractor Show.
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    23

    Default Securing the Starting Pinion Shaft

    What is the recommended method to secure the starting motor pinion/clutch shaft to remove the nut on the clutch end and the stop on the pinion sleeve end?

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    McBEE, SC
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    2,210

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    Quote Originally Posted by sheddcanyon View Post
    What is the recommended method to secure the starting motor pinion/clutch shaft to remove the nut on the clutch end and the stop on the pinion sleeve end?
    What I use is a milling machine vise with smooth jaws and a 15" adjustable wrench. If I had the need and time I would make an impact socket for 1/2 drive.
    D2 5u & 3J
    212 9T
    RD4
    D4 7J & 7U
    R4 4G
    Gas 35's
    Diesel 35
    Diesel 40
    Gas 50's 5A
    Diesel 50 1E1755
    Diesel 75
    D 8800 power unit 9J 6113SP
    LeTourneau D4 tournapull/Q Carryall
    Letourneau D Carryall's
    LaPlant-Choate CAB-97

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    victoria australia
    Posts
    2,936

    Default Pony Pinion Repair and Usage

    Hi Team,
    yet again Toby's tutorials come to the rescue--enjoy---essentially the data covers D6 horizontal pony motors as well.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5Xb9...endscreen&NR=1

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vo0m1XBqdBY

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jSAbfUmoUiA

    and some extra tips for pinion removal D6 similar to D2, D4
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=feOWGC329ic

    D2 D4 D6 Starting Sequence https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jcz7qPz8QTE

    Check down the right side suggestions menu for more of Toby's tutorials.

    Cheers,
    Eddie B.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Pittsford NY
    Posts
    4,246

    Default

    Eddie,
    quick questions. My D2's pinion stop bolt keeps coming undone, even with a new locking tab on it. What are your thoughts on why this is happening and how can I remedy it? I've thought about adding loctite to the mix but I don't want to pull this thing out again so want to make sure it's in there good this time : )
    Also, I'd assume that the latch shoulders should be perfectly perpendicular to the stop bolt when latched?
    Finally, the entire assembly has a little movement as it's cranking. There obviously has to be some clearance for the assembly to be mounted in the flywheel housing hole, but is it too much if I can detect it by eye? This is not a production machine : ) but equally I don't want to ignore it if it's going to escalate quickly
    Cheers,
    Neil.

  6. #16
    Join Date
    May 2019
    Location
    Shandon, California. Near the home of the Best of the West Tractor Show.
    Posts
    23

    Default Pony Motor Pinion Shaft

    Hi Eddie,

    I've watched Squatch's videos which are great. Unfortunately, he doesn't demonstrate how he secures the shaft to disconnect or connect the locking nut on the clutch end or the stop on the pinion end. I'm guessing I need a healthy-sized vice with soft jaws to secure it without marring the shaft surface.

    Are there any other methods? Can you secure the shaft well enough with a strap wrench?

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    McBEE, SC
    Posts
    2,210

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    Quote Originally Posted by Neil View Post
    Eddie,
    quick questions. My D2's pinion stop bolt keeps coming undone, even with a new locking tab on it. What are your thoughts on why this is happening and how can I remedy it? I've thought about adding loctite to the mix but I don't want to pull this thing out again so want to make sure it's in there good this time : )
    Also, I'd assume that the latch shoulders should be perfectly perpendicular to the stop bolt when latched?
    Finally, the entire assembly has a little movement as it's cranking. There obviously has to be some clearance for the assembly to be mounted in the flywheel housing hole, but is it too much if I can detect it by eye? This is not a production machine : ) but equally I don't want to ignore it if it's going to escalate quickly
    I have used loctite with perfect results. Clean everything with brake cleaner, use the red loctite. The stop I tighten very well. If its moving around as it cranks, then there may be something bent or bad bearings?
    D2 5u & 3J
    212 9T
    RD4
    D4 7J & 7U
    R4 4G
    Gas 35's
    Diesel 35
    Diesel 40
    Gas 50's 5A
    Diesel 50 1E1755
    Diesel 75
    D 8800 power unit 9J 6113SP
    LeTourneau D4 tournapull/Q Carryall
    Letourneau D Carryall's
    LaPlant-Choate CAB-97

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Pittsford NY
    Posts
    4,246

    Default

    Bearings are brand new. Could be a bent shaft or maybe sketchy ring gear - it barely moves - if it wasn't for the oil in the "crack", I probably couldn't tell that it's moving
    Cheers,
    Neil.

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    victoria australia
    Posts
    2,936

    Default Pinion Shaft/Gear Latch Stop Bolt

    Hi Team,
    I have only ever used the Cat lock plate, BUT, you need to secure the unit in the vice with soft jaws and tighten it securely, some thread lock would be beneficial for peace of mind.

    YES, it is critical that the latches engage as fully as the vernier adjustment of the pinion gear body multi position bolt holes allow--I have had to fit a shim or two in with the lock plate or, depending if in the shop or field, grind a bit off the end of the pinion shaft end, to get good full engagement of the latches on the retainer nut shoulders.
    I was sure Toby covered this critical factor in the Tutorial, likely I was dreaming again or is that still !

    Have come across some pinions and had to rectify some that were dutifully aligned to the spanner flats on the retaining bolt and thus would not engage or in the words of the installer "would not stay engaged" and so had to be held in mesh by the engaging system wearing the lever pads out.

    Cheers,
    Eddie B.

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Pittsford NY
    Posts
    4,246

    Default

    Thanks Eddie, I knew about the full engagement of the latches (and Toby's videos are very helpful as is your own sage advice : ) but I also wanted confirmation that when they're fully engaged, the surface of the latch is exactly parallel to the surface of the retaining bolt. I'm wondering if mine have worn off at an angle so that retention is less effective, even when fully engaged. Is this something that's critical? Pretty sure my retaining bolt is new so when I reassemble it, I want to make sure I'm not leaving any stones unturned. I did put a new latch spring in and the adjusters are about one thread deeper in than flush. That did improve the holding power but what I found is that it would still pop out after a couple of minutes cranking even though the main engine wasn't attempting to start.
    Cheers,
    Neil.

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