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Thread: Help: D318 water pump or seal/bearing kit?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Houghton Lake, MI
    Posts
    25

    Default Help: D318 water pump or seal/bearing kit?

    Does anyone have or know where to get a seal and bearing kit for a D318 water pump? S/n 45B869 or have a whole good water pump they would sell? I have it off and tore apart because leaked all the coolant out after sitting over winter. Any help would be appreciated, thank you
    Current: Cat D8-2U, D2-4U, D2-5U, D6C-76a, D6D, D5-94J D8H 46A, 215B, 966B many parts, pieces and engines
    Previous: 1947 D4, 54' D4-7U, 52' D4-7U,50' D2-5U, 1946 Bucyrus Erie 15b D4400

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Paso Robles, CA
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    928

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    Has been several years but Cat had everything for a rebuild.Cat part number 2H5106 is the seal and gasket kit. It was available from after market sources as well.

    I have a dealer that is use to the old numbers from the book, but you may have trouble if all the parts counter people are under 40. I think the trick is add 0's in front to get the number of digits all the newer numbers use.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Corralitos, Ca.
    Posts
    14,596

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    The 45Bxxxx uses an entirely different water pump than the tractor D318's. It is a twin v-belt drive and I don't think any of the internal parts interchange. Do you have or need a parts break down?
    The seal is a 2L5031 = 4S7805
    Gasket group is a 8H2184
    The 2L5034 bearing = BCA 7035 = SKF WC8507
    The 2L5036 bearing I have not found an interchange.
    2L5036 = SKF WC8605

    Impeller is a 2L5029 available here if you need one.
    https://www.machinerytrader.com/part...pe=starts-with
    Last edited by Old Magnet; 08-16-2019 at 11:18 PM.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Houghton Lake, MI
    Posts
    25

    Default

    Thank you very much for the help
    Current: Cat D8-2U, D2-4U, D2-5U, D6C-76a, D6D, D5-94J D8H 46A, 215B, 966B many parts, pieces and engines
    Previous: 1947 D4, 54' D4-7U, 52' D4-7U,50' D2-5U, 1946 Bucyrus Erie 15b D4400

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Faunsdale, AL USA
    Posts
    3,964

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    They're more trouble to get apart than to reassemble so your past half way there!

    Many of the kits and sets to do repairs on the old machines are no longer available, but the individual parts in those kits almost always are. I no longer have the parts book to look up the numbers for you.

    I've done several water pumps over the last 40 years. Most expensive part is the impeller. You don't have to have a new one unless the old one is damaged. Originals were bronze and seldom damaged by removing them. Most common problem was the ceramic seat for the seal will break loose. New replacement impellers are usually a soft grey cast iron and more frequently damaged during removal. Aftermarket sources are much cheaper than CAT. I usually do a search online using the part number I'm looking for and get several hits to choose from.

    I have used an adhesive called pliabond to reattach the ceramic seat to the impeller or I have a parts list to convert to a different style seal available from industrial supply house like McMasterCarr. However the aftermarket impeller is usually cheap enough that in the end, it's not a lot cheaper to go that route.
    D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare time

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Cambridge Springs, PA
    Posts
    272

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    The worst part is the top left hand nut that holds the pump on, everything else is a snap, but that nut is in a very tough spot to work if your a large handed fellow. Have fun!

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Hamilton, ohio
    Posts
    97

    Default water pump small leak

    Quote Originally Posted by Old Magnet View Post
    The 45Bxxxx uses an entirely different water pump than the tractor D318's. It is a twin v-belt drive and I don't think any of the internal parts interchange. Do you have or need a parts break down?
    The seal is a 2L5031 = 4S7805
    Gasket group is a 8H2184
    The 2L5034 bearing = BCA 7035 = SKF WC8507
    The 2L5036 bearing I have not found an interchange.
    2L5036 = SKF WC8605

    Impeller is a 2L5029 available here if you need one.
    https://www.machinerytrader.com/part...pe=starts-with
    I have D6 9U serial 21332, and the water pump has a slow drip. I put some grease in fitting and that helped some. However, I think I may need to replace sooner than later. It's been working good otherwise. Can I rebuild this as you all are discussing? Or can it be bought new? It looks easy enough to get off, except the lower left nut is under there. thanks, fred

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Corralitos, Ca.
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    14,596

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    I'm not aware of any source for new or rebuilt pumps. The pump can be rebuilt as parts are still available (impellers might be hard to source). Be aware that the pump described in this thread is for a late industrial D318 and is not the same as the ones used on D318 tractors.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Faunsdale, AL USA
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    Quote Originally Posted by fred hogan View Post
    I have D6 9U serial 21332, and the water pump has a slow drip. I put some grease in fitting and that helped some. However, I think I may need to replace sooner than later. It's been working good otherwise. Can I rebuild this as you all are discussing? Or can it be bought new? It looks easy enough to get off, except the lower left nut is under there. thanks, fred
    Easy enough to rebuild yourself. A "steering wheel" type puller is required. If your bearings are still good, you can just pull the impeller and replace the seal. First one I ever did, 40 years ago, I did on the track! The carbon seal had stuck to the ceramic seat on the impeller and cracked when the engine started. Of course it made a significant leak. This is not too common, usually the rubber bellows that supports the carbon seal ring simply deteriorates.

    One concern is when driving the seal into the housing, if you use a hammer vs a press, you must not allow the driver to contact the carbon ring. Probably worth wrapping a strip of cardboard around it to cushion any impact. I use a shop hammer and a suitably sized socket to drive the seal in, just have to take care or you'll crack the carbon.

    If you don't want to take on the job, I have rebuilt a couple for folks on here.

    I can't think of any real hard bolts holding the water pump in. However I have seen folks take the whole rear housing off the head and block.......that indeed has some really difficult fasteners to access, especially on the older models with the fuel/water heat exchanger elbow. However simply removing the pump out the front isn't too bad.
    D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare time

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Paso Robles, CA
    Posts
    928

    Default

    Fred the number I put up before is from the latter oil clutch D6 9u tractor parts book. Last parts I bought were about 10 years ago, I ordered a impeller as well cause the parts man said sent it back if you don't need it. Well the rebuild parts package was not to bad but impeller was was north of $100 (maybe close to 200)and then a 10% or better restocking fee.

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