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Thread: Help: D318 water pump or seal/bearing kit?

  1. #11
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    Feb 2013
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    Hamilton, ohio
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ray54 View Post
    Fred the number I put up before is from the latter oil clutch D6 9u tractor parts book. Last parts I bought were about 10 years ago, I ordered a impeller as well cause the parts man said sent it back if you don't need it. Well the rebuild parts package was not to bad but impeller was was north of $100 (maybe close to 200)and then a 10% or better restocking fee.
    I do have oil clutch. I plan to remove by taking the six bolts off front. Then see how well things look . I'm not in big rush.

  2. #12
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    Feb 2013
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    Quote Originally Posted by ccjersey View Post
    Easy enough to rebuild yourself. A "steering wheel" type puller is required. If your bearings are still good, you can just pull the impeller and replace the seal. First one I ever did, 40 years ago, I did on the track! The carbon seal had stuck to the ceramic seat on the impeller and cracked when the engine started. Of course it made a significant leak. This is not too common, usually the rubber bellows that supports the carbon seal ring simply deteriorates.

    One concern is when driving the seal into the housing, if you use a hammer vs a press, you must not allow the driver to contact the carbon ring. Probably worth wrapping a strip of cardboard around it to cushion any impact. I use a shop hammer and a suitably sized socket to drive the seal in, just have to take care or you'll crack the carbon.

    If you don't want to take on the job, I have rebuilt a couple for folks on here.

    I can't think of any real hard bolts holding the water pump in. However I have seen folks take the whole rear housing off the head and block.......that indeed has some really difficult fasteners to access, especially on the older models with the fuel/water heat exchanger elbow. However simply removing the pump out the front isn't too bad.
    Sounds like my tractor type 318 is much easier, I plan to get it off and take a look, hope it is something simple like the seal. fred

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Cambridge Springs, PA
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    272

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    Quote Originally Posted by ccjersey View Post
    I can't think of any real hard bolts holding the water pump in. However I have seen folks take the whole rear housing off the head and block.......that indeed has some really difficult fasteners to access, especially on the older models with the fuel/water heat exchanger elbow. However simply removing the pump out the front isn't too bad.
    That must be what I did wrong, sure didn't look like enough room to split the water pump in place on my 9U though. The one nut is near impossible to get a wrench on unless you are double jointed, and getting the same nut started for reassembly was miserable too. Would have been much easier with the hard nose, hydraulics, and radiator not in the way, lol.

  4. #14
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    Nov 2006
    Location
    Faunsdale, AL USA
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    There's a lot more access on the cable operated dozers! They're about the same as a bare tractor.

    I sympathize completely about the process of removing the pump and thermostat housing. Those lower nuts/bolts that go into the front of the block are a pain.......and there's some on the water elbow in front of the fuel filter tower that aren't much fun either.

    Once you get the fan off, getting the pump out isn't too bad. I usually don't have any handy, but putting a piece of cardboard in front of the fan saves a lot of cut knuckles and maybe a few bent fins.
    D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare time

  5. #15
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    Feb 2013
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    Hamilton, ohio
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    Quote Originally Posted by ccjersey View Post
    There's a lot more access on the cable operated dozers! They're about the same as a bare tractor.

    I sympathize completely about the process of removing the pump and thermostat housing. Those lower nuts/bolts that go into the front of the block are a pain.......and there's some on the water elbow in front of the fuel filter tower that aren't much fun either.

    Once you get the fan off, getting the pump out isn't too bad. I usually don't have any handy, but putting a piece of cardboard in front of the fan saves a lot of cut knuckles and maybe a few bent fins.
    I have room in front, the fan and fan belt are about the only obstacles, my blade hydraulic is down lower...fred

  6. #16
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    Feb 2013
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    Hamilton, ohio
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    Default water pump small leak

    As a follow-up. I greased the water pump as advised in manual. I took the top plug off and pumped grease in lower fitting until it came out top. I ran main motor about 45 minutes and no leak. Some grease came out. So, I'm holding off taking water pump off for now.....fred

  7. #17
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    Feb 2013
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    Hamilton, ohio
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    Quote Originally Posted by fred hogan View Post
    As a follow-up. I greased the water pump as advised in manual. I took the top plug off and pumped grease in lower fitting until it came out top. I ran main motor about 45 minutes and no leak. Some grease came out. So, I'm holding off taking water pump off for now.....fred
    next follow-up....not expectantly, I ran the dozer yesterday, and the leak is back. Looks like I'll learn how to rebuild one. Should I go ahead and order re-built kit or wait till I pull it off?

  8. #18
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    Aug 2008
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    Paso Robles, CA
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    When does it leak,after it warms up or even after the engine is stopped and cooled? If it leaks just sitting probably the pump.

    If it only leaks when running,most likely pre combustion chamber seals are bad.Putting compression gases into cooling system. Been there done that, not having rebuilt a water pump before. Assumed I did something wrong, after the second time I was tipped off. Pull the gasket and brass plate out of radiator cap, now pressure can escape there and not through seal on water pump. Helps to pull cap and look at the coolant after the engine comes to operating temp,if there bubbles or foam gas is getting in to cooling system.


    The good news is I have never heard of a 318 head cracking. They warp because of how long,and a bunch of other ills that can cost to fix,but no crack.
    Last edited by Ray54; 09-08-2019 at 05:02 PM.

  9. #19
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    Feb 2013
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    Hamilton, ohio
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ray54 View Post
    When does it leak,after it warms up or even after the engine is stopped and cooled? If it leaks just sitting probably the pump.

    If it only leaks when running,most likely pre combustion chamber seals are bad.Putting compression gases into cooling system. Been there done that, not having rebuilt a water pump before. Assumed I did something wrong, after the second time I was tipped off. Pull the gasket and brass plate out of radiator cap, now pressure can escape there and not through seal on water pump. Helps to pull cap and look at the coolant after the engine comes to operating temp,if there bubbles or foam gas is getting in to cooling system.


    The good news is I have never heard of a 318 head cracking. They warp because of how long,and a bunch of other ills that can cost to fix,but no crack.
    So, you're saying if I even loosen the radiator cap while running, the leak should stop (or slow down) if coming from pre combustion chambers?? It doesn't look to be leaking on its own when engine is not running. Should I check tightness on bolts around head, i'm not familiar with pre combustion chambers....

  10. #20
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    Aug 2008
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    Paso Robles, CA
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    Bear with me a poor has been farmer/cowboy to poor to hire it done so.............

    Pre combustion chambers are threaded into the head,fuel injectors are inside them. They are sealed to the head with a washer,in the old days copper,current ones are steel with shot of copper paint. The chambers can also rust away where the coolant contacts them. If they leak combustion the gas it goes into the cooling system and you have more pressure than the water pump seal can handle, so it leaks. In my case would spray out. So yes if the cap is loose it will not leak. But if you pull that gasket and plate the cap can be screwed down so you don't lose it.
    Last edited by Ray54; 09-09-2019 at 10:20 AM.

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