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Thread: Giving my old D4 7U some well deserved love

  1. #51
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Lance Creek Victoria 3995 Australia
    Posts
    330

    Default Gasket material

    Hi Mangnoman,
    I have thourght of useing a large round piece of neoprene rubber ilo the cork or if you can find some old sealing rings used on some Cat rims that should do

    Regards
    Daryl
    RD4 4G4368
    D4 7J9915SP
    R4 6G2554SP
    D4 2T6584SP
    D4 7U37855


    May you always be in the right place at the right time with a fist full of Dollars

  2. #52
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    Fruitvale, British Columbia
    Posts
    240

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by rax200 View Post
    Hi Mangnoman,
    I have thourght of useing a large round piece of neoprene rubber ilo the cork or if you can find some old sealing rings used on some Cat rims that should do

    Regards
    Ah yes good ideas. I had thought about using 5/16? fuel/ oil and cutting a puzzlpiece on each end and Loctite o ring glue. I want to make sure it is oil happy and doesnt swell and turn to mush.

  3. #53
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    Fruitvale, British Columbia
    Posts
    240

    Default Quit while I'm not too far behind?

    Progress has slowed up a little lately but the other day I thought I would work on repairing my left side brake band. The "eye" at the end of the brake band that is pulled on has somehow broke open. Someone suggested MIG welding in place and another person suggested removing the band and repairing as it is an easy job while I have the covers all off. Well, true to form I went with the more "thorough" approach and attempted to remove. The first section of band came apart ok. No broken 1/4" bolts that hold the sections together. Now the for the second section, I broke one bolt/stud of four. I put my socket on the second and it seems not likely to co operate. Now I'm worried that if I break it then I only have half the bolts holding the band together. Not a good idea I would guess. From what I saw, if I break the bolts then I need to do more in depth repair like separating the lining to replace the bolts? Re-riveting the lining to the band section...I have never done that, dont have tools...etc...

    Best to just try welding the eye up in place or any other thoughts? What do the wiser people have to say?

  4. #54
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Northern Victoria, Australia
    Posts
    2,776

    Default

    Re-assemble it and weld the eye in-situ is my suggestion, take the easy way this time, you will have plenty of tougher challenges ahead I'm sure, you will not break that band with 3 good bolts holding it, unless someone on here has a good used band for $50 shipped to your place, then it's a no brainer to slip in another band in case you get busy contracting with the old girl and 10,000 hours later wear your linings out.
    Mike

  5. #55
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Paso Robles, CA
    Posts
    1,081

    Default

    Don't forget the anti seize when you go back with the band.

  6. #56
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    Fruitvale, British Columbia
    Posts
    240

    Default

    This evening I used my handy dandy 120V little Lincoln welder to buzz the end of the eye back together. That was definitely the right way to go. I have a little reassembly with the third section of the brake band, flush out the trans and bevel case with a siphon solvent gun and maybe headed towards putting the cover back on. I bought some 1/2" diameter o ring stock and will cut to length for the trans case. It seemed to be ok for diameter, maybe possibly a little thick but will see how cover fits. Come to think of it, I may have some thread repair to do for the top cover. I will check that out in the next few days and definitely never seize everything. It will likely be me working on it next time! 😁

  7. #57
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    Fruitvale, British Columbia
    Posts
    240

    Default

    Last night I finished putting together the LH brake band and scoped things out for what next. I need to gather a couple 1/8" grease zerks for the clutches and then I can confirm proper lubrication to the thrust bearings. Probably will get some diesel and brake clean to flush out the trans and bevel gear compartments. I had a look at the seals between the bevel gear and clutch compartments and they seem intact so will probably just clean them up and put some fresh sealant- maybe Permatex Ultra Grey? in there and button them up. Looks like there are rope seals on the bevel gear cover. Will do the same there. 1/2" tap into all the cover bolt holes, scrape and clean up top cover surfaces, never seize...The four short cork gaskets for the bevel gear compartment are toast so make new ones. Eating the elephant one bite at a time 😁
    Attached Images Attached Images

  8. #58
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    north idaho
    Posts
    763

    Default

    Eating the elephant one bite at a time, haha that's funny. Pretty true though. Looks good in the picture and sounds like you're getting things done. Keep up the good work

  9. #59
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    Fruitvale, British Columbia
    Posts
    240

    Default

    Well, the "eating of the elephant" has been merely inching along lately. Pretty busy but I have managed a few things:

    I bought 1/2" o ring to make my own for the transmission cover. Looks like it should work. Still cost $60 for 6ft but better than $200 from Finning.

    Confirmed the grease lines to the steering are a-ok. Watched fresh grease get to bearing area.

    Steamed the top cover and inspected.

    Found a couple cracked 3/8" bolt holes. Not sure why the cast would be cracked there. Doesnt seem like a stressed area.

    Bought some cork gasket for the bevel gear compartment cover to seal the short pieces that broke off the halfmoon over the side bearings. Ideally would be one peice each side as original but not too interested in buying from our Cat dealer. I would expect it to be $$.

    Stuck my dial indicator on the pony flywheel. .030" radial run out. Pretty sure without looking in book, that is excessive. Pony removal and repair will be next after I get the cover back on the trans/ clutches.

    Anyone have any thoughts about why the cast would break out of the top cover around where the steering clutch linkages are? It is both side in same place. This is looking at the bottom of the cover.

    Finally, wondering if anyone would know why is paint absent from around the transmission fill plug on top? There is a triangle area that looks like something used to be there. Just curious.

    Thank you everyone for your input
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  10. #60
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    victoria australia
    Posts
    3,485

    Default Burst Casting Boss

    Hi,
    from your underneath pic it would appear that some one screwed a bolt into a threaded hole with dirt/mud or of too long a length and hydraulic-ed to bottom out of a blind hole.

    Be very care full that your O Ring is of a soft enough material and not sitting too proud of the groove before compression or else you could easily crack the top cover due to not enough compressablity of your seal material.
    When you tension the cover down look for a gap between it and the main case that does not close down tight easily or quickly as the retaining bolt load is applied.

    This is why the correct gasket having the correct section and volume of cork material is used. These may update to a soft sponge rubber gasket by now.

    The gaskets on the Bevel Gear shaft bearing cages definitely went to a special red foam rubber gasket on later machines--I feel if you ordered the cork gasket it would update from the Dealer to the said red gasket--I stand to be corrected.
    Cheers,
    Eddie B.

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