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Thread: D4 2T lower brake adjustment bolt question?

  1. #1
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    Default D4 2T lower brake adjustment bolt question?

    Newbie question.. One side lower brake adjustment bolt is broken off and missing the nut. The “set screw” 4B-3626 as its called in the parts catalog is still available from CAT. Just checking it’s simply a matter of removing the broken bolt and threading in the new one and then the nut? I’m assuming the brake band won’t move and make it hard to line up the holes? Thanks,

    Tony

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  2. #2
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    Default

    No problem other than removing the old one, you might find it easier to screw it in than out but it may bottom on the brake band before it falls out inside the housing.
    It doesn’t go through anything other than the bottom of the cast iron housing so no alignment problems
    D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare time

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by ccjersey View Post
    No problem other than removing the old one, you might find it easier to screw it in than out but it may bottom on the brake band before it falls out inside the housing.
    It doesn’t go through anything other than the bottom of the cast iron housing so no alignment problems
    Ok, great, thanks, I’ll see if it will move now..

  4. #4
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    Default d4

    When I had my dozers I was using the brake bolt adjustement only when I reinstaled new linnen on band

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by gemdozer View Post
    When I had my dozers I was using the brake bolt adjustement only when I reinstaled new linnen on band
    Ok, great, so not a priority to get to then?

  6. #6
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    Tony, if you can get that old screw out and replace it, then do it, when adjusted properly it carries the weight of the brake band and prevents the top section of brake lining from resting constantly on the brake drum and possibly wearing that section prematurely.

    The Owners Book tells us to adjust it by fully tightening it, then undoing it a turn and a half, a show tractor will never wear the brake lining out up on top of the band, but why not do the job right while you are looking at it, it should come out easily in a minute if you can lock 2 nuts on that stub, if not, weld a nut on to it and screw it out, often that housing has oil sitting in it from weeping seals so the old screw should not be rusted solid.

    From memory it is a simple 3/8" coarse thread, so a good hard bolt should work there with a locking nut.
    Mike

  7. #7
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    Aaah, that's 1/2" coarse thread.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Old Magnet View Post
    Aaah, that's 1/2" coarse thread.
    Thanks for checking that detail Pete, it's been about 8 years since I touched mine, the other reason for getting that old screw out is if you have to remove the brake band at any time in the future, you will probably get the brake band out with some wriggling, but you won't get it back in, that screw sitting up inside the housing will prevent you sliding the band down around the drum.
    Mike

  9. #9
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    Nov 2017
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Meyer View Post
    Thanks for checking that detail Pete, it's been about 8 years since I touched mine, the other reason for getting that old screw out is if you have to remove the brake band at any time in the future, you will probably get the brake band out with some wriggling, but you won't get it back in, that screw sitting up inside the housing will prevent you sliding the band down around the drum.
    Mike
    does the top cover have to be removed to replace the brake band??
    D4 6U,1943 D4 2T,Laplant Choate C41 Carrimor Scraper

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Meyer View Post
    Tony, if you can get that old screw out and replace it, then do it, when adjusted properly it carries the weight of the brake band and prevents the top section of brake lining from resting constantly on the brake drum and possibly wearing that section prematurely.

    The Owners Book tells us to adjust it by fully tightening it, then undoing it a turn and a half, a show tractor will never wear the brake lining out up on top of the band, but why not do the job right while you are looking at it, it should come out easily in a minute if you can lock 2 nuts on that stub, if not, weld a nut on to it and screw it out, often that housing has oil sitting in it from weeping seals so the old screw should not be rusted solid.

    From memory it is a simple 3/8" coarse thread, so a good hard bolt should work there with a locking nut.
    Mike
    All great info guys, thanks. My instinct was to remove it but I didn’t really understand why..

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