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Thread: 22 Cat Runs Again

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Posts
    23

    Default 22 Cat Runs Again

    For those who remember,
    Last year Don posted pics of this tractor with a homemade blade pivoted on truck spindles and a winch to move the blade up and down mounted to the radiator. The engine was stuck (pistons and valves), water jacket cracked, the exuast manifold broken and the heatbox fractured into pieces.
    A year later and a lot of work the kids have have it to running again. The picture is it's first trip out of the shop. During this project the bearing clearances were set, cylinders honed, new rings installed, valve job, carb and fuel lines cleaned, mag cleaned and timing set. The best part is the kids did all of the work (except the headwork) and all I had to do was repair the heatbox and watch the rest. The tractor now starts easily with the handcrank and idles well.

    Now for the issue:
    The engine seems to run a little warm (160-180) and be short on power. I figure either running lean, a governor issue or the timing is retarded. The timing was set with the (mag) mark on the pulley. I understand that the timing is retarded 35deg while cranking. If I wanted to use a timing light to check the timing, how many degrees should it be running and at what rpm? How is the governor set?
    The throttle does control engine rpm, but it just does not seem to power up when going up even the slightest incline.

    Thanks,
    Dave
    Attached Images Attached Images

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    portland victoria australia
    Posts
    866

    Default 22

    hello dmgrow,good to her running gain,good work young fellows.

    the rad proply needs clean out ,but will run hot until it wears in a bit,
    the governor,it is under the beather on the rigth side ,the spring break or streach ,may just have a bit of wire or hard spring.

    the timing marks ,lucky you can still see it ,it not much of a mark on the fly wheel ,rust of ,mine i had it about 10mm to 15mm passed tdc ,
    make sure you trip the mag when doing the timming ,other wise it will be out.

    cm4 mag book--http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v7...afilter=images
    operator book--http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v7...afilter=images

    put your pic rigth way ,, bruce oz
    Last edited by bruce oz; 10-03-2008 at 03:31 AM.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Posts
    23

    Default More

    Thanks Bruce......
    It is getting easier to start as it breaks in, started second pull of the crank today.
    Flushed the cooling system, readjusted the valves and checked the governor. Operated the throttle by hand and the engine still would not rev up. Finally I put the timing light on it and found that number one is still firing nice and steady at the mag mark which leaves me find out why the mag is not advancing the timing when running. Anyone have any ideas?

    Thanks,
    Dave

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    portland victoria australia
    Posts
    866

    Default mag

    hello dmgrow, can you hear the mag clicking when you cranking it ,maybe the drive were the advace is dry ,there is a little cup with lid were you oil it ,it may need taking of and cleaned ,it wilbe in the mag book ,bruce oz

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Monterey Hills
    Posts
    128

    Default Timing

    The Mag does not advance the timing when running. It should fire at the pulley "MAG" mark when running. The impulse retardes the mag 35 degrees so you can crank it without kickback. Bill

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Posts
    23

    Default

    Bill......
    So what you are saying is while hand cranking the mag retards the timing 30 degrees from the mag mark and not from tdc? The mag mark looks to be 10 or so degrees from what I assumed to be the TDC mark which sounds reasonable, but leaves me puzzled as to why the blasted thing will not rev up.


    Bruce......
    I can hear the latches while cranking. When I set the timing, I brought #1 up to tdc then alined the mag mark to the mark on the engine. Then I pinned the latches back and rotated the mag till the short tooth lined up with the pin. There is another mark on the front pully. I assumed that it was TDC. The instructions in the cat book are just not clear enough


    Thanks,
    Dave

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Monterey Hills
    Posts
    128

    Default

    Dave, That's correct. The other mark is TDC. The timing sounds correct . Try running it without the air cleaner. You can take the top off it and check for blockage. You need the correct fuel air mixture for it to run correctly. Might also be the carb. Bill

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Posts
    23

    Default

    Bill......
    I will check both air cleaner and carb this weekend.

    Thanks,
    Dave

  9. #9
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    29

    Default

    Dave
    What model 22 is it? on my 2f the front pulley is marked with TDC for one mark and the other is marked MAG . The MAG mark is a lot further away from the TDC than you would think. If you sand the pulley with emery paper you may still be able to read the MAG position and you may have to remove all the paint first. If it is getting enough fuel and it should have reasonable compression with the work done to the engine it could be the spark is retarded.
    Oz22

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Posts
    23

    Default

    Problem found.....
    Had the mag checked, it was fine.
    Pulled the intake and reset it and the heatbox, nothing found.
    Puting the carb back on and there it was, the remains of the old gasket and a new gasket. Not enough supervision when the kids put the carb on the first time. Now it starts second pull with no choke, idles well and pulls the hills.
    Another lesson learned and now the kids can time a 22 in their sleep.

    Got it figured out just in time, their next project was just delivered yesterday, a D46U

    Thanks for all of your help
    Dave

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