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Thread: Recent 20 rescue

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Seaside, CA
    Posts
    96

    Default Recent 20 rescue

    I got this cat last Friday afternoon and took the blade off on Saturday. The engine turns and has the Ensing strainer bowl. It also has an interesting electric start. I figure I will get it started with the electric start and then put a crank on it latter. It seams the float is stuck on the carb because fule starts draining out the bottom drain filter. The front two rock guards on the idlers are in good condition but the back rock guards have been cut for the blade. The side curtains are in good condition and the hood is ok. The fenders will need some work but the seat is in good condition. The fule tank has some rust on the bottom and will eventually need to be redone.

    Does anyone have a good way to chech for compression?
    Which keye fits the Eisemann swich I have pictured?
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  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Dallas Pa.
    Posts
    1,902

    Default Compression

    The easiest way is get a compression tester and turn the engine over. On diesels when I was working didn,t use compression figures but Cat recommended a leak down check by pumping pressure on top the pistons with the engine at TDC firing stroke and I made up a couple adapters to do it down throught the pre chamber hole where the nozzle screwed in.I guess you could take an old spark plug base and make up an adapter to do it but you,d have to lock the brakes and put the tractor in gear so it wouldn,t turn the engine over. The same goes for the diesel. Take all the plug wires off or the plugs out when you do it. Also take the nozzles out if it,s a diesel.I forgot to mention, with the air test you need a line shutoff in the hose going to the cylinder so when you get pressure in the cylinder you shut the air off and watch a gauge also in the line after the shutoff and before the cylinder adapter.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Necedah, Wisconsin
    Posts
    44

    Default Compression

    I am still working on my D-4 5t. When I put a new fan belt on and tightend it up I was able to turn the motor over by hand by turning the fan. I was surpised I could do this. Is this normal? It was to turn it over when I turned off the compression release.
    My question is (1) if I should be able to turn the motor over by turning the fan and (2) if I should proceed with trying to start it or stop now and tear the head off.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Elkhorn, WI
    Posts
    3,749

    Default dratt

    When I got my D2 a couple of years ago, I was able to do the same thing. Don't worry. For some reason mine runs really well.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    California City, CA USA
    Posts
    526

    Default

    Karl,

    Just remove the plugs and, using a hand held compression tester, crank the engine using the cables I see attached to the starter. I'm guessing 60#-90# pressure. Just for curiosity I'd try it dry then again after squirting oil in the cylinders. If you want a crank try to find one of the rear mount ones.
    Personally I'd leave the starter and the blade on. I think they're neat shopbuilt accessories. The hydraulic cylinders look definitely period. It looks like the pump is belt driven. Is it 'period'? I'm guessing you have to push the driven sprocket in before engaging the start switch (is there a solenoid or mechanical switch on the starter itself or some where else?).

    Good luck, Daron

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Elkhorn, WI
    Posts
    3,749

    Default I'd leave the....

    starter on also. Whats wrong with a "Shop" modification? If you honestly believe you need a crank then add a pin through the sprocket shaft if possible and carry a crank for when the battery isn't available.
    I wouldn't put a rear mount crank on because sooner or later you'll start thinking you want a PTO shaft or Belt pulley back there.
    An interesting tractor to look at is one that isn't plain jane stock original. It is more interesting to look at someone else's ideas, than to walk down rows and rows of "Better than Factory" originals.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Seaside, CA
    Posts
    96

    Default

    Thanks for the info guys. I have already taken the blade off and disposed of. Sorry, I just like the old crawler style. I am more interested in putting around the back yard than doing shows. Someday I do hope to find a high hitch setup or a belt driven PTO. The dozer blade was a good set up untill it came to where the back of the hydralic ram support went down to the tracks.

    I did use one of the hand push in presure testers but I had to pound out the porcilin in a spark plug to make a small enough hole for my tester to work. I only tested the #2 cylinder and had no compression. I am going to take off the valve cover and make sure the valves are not stuck.

    thanks,
    Karl

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Malin Oregon
    Posts
    155

    Default

    clean the sludge out of the crankcase, install new nondetergent oil. clean the fuel system and other wise service the tractor. leave the spark plugs out, tow it in gear until you have oil pressure, install the plugs and pull start it. I have done this with a 28 and a 2 ton. both tractors had no compression until the engines were run. The 28 was fine and starts easy, the 2 ton, I had to grind the valves as it would only run on 2 cylinders.

    you have the switch on the left. the switch for the skeleton key is flatter on the face
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    Last edited by Jon; 10-10-2008 at 09:41 PM.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Seaside, CA
    Posts
    96

    Default

    I changed the oil and found out that something must have happen long ago that sent metal shards all over the oil pan. The metal shards were in the built up hard sluge on the bottom of the pan. It was just small chuncks like small chunks of gravel. I put in new oil and poured the new oil over the cam shaft areas as I poured it in sice I had both side pannels off. I pulled the oil pump and everything looked fine. I did find that one of the brass head on an oil line was not sodered on and fell off. So I had to resoder the head on the line. I am willing to bet that what ever happen to cause metal chuncks had something to do with the oil pump due to the fact that it is a latter model oil pump than what the book shows.

    I have been putting Marvle Mystry oil on top of the cylinders a few times now and still no compression. I tried putting gas and starting fluid in the priming cups to see if it would start a little but nothing happens. How hard is it to pull the pistons and do rings? Do I need to hone the cylinders when I do new rings? I might try pulling it around in gear before I go through pulling the pistons.

    Jon, I have a skeleton key type one already. So it looks like this one needs the button type key. I will probibly put on the skeleton key one I have.

    thanks,
    Karl

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Malin Oregon
    Posts
    155

    Default

    Get someone to help you pull start it, you may not need to do anything to the engine.

    nondetergent oil allows particles in the oil to settle to the bottom of the crankcase. detergent oil suspends particles in the oil to be collected by a filter. detergent oil, no filter, not so good.

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