convert to electric start

[Doug Swenson]

Does anyone know if a D7M could be converted to electric start? Icannot find a casting hole in the block to mount a starter. It is a 1943 model, has someone done such a thing. Will it start better or not? I am tired of working on the pony motor! I think I have leaky valves because I hear it fizzin in carb and it doesn't have the compression anymore. Any Ideas? Thanks Doug

[Billy D7 4T]

Where you are located, and if you plan to run it during cold temperatures, I think a starting motor is still worthy of consideration. I believe you can mount an electric starter, I know someone with a '53 3T set up with direct start, someone here would have the details on the type, and how to mount it, you'll need batteries, and enough reserve to crank that diesel, enough to build up some heat in those cylinders, I'd seriously be thinking about a block heater or something similar, hard to figure if a battery reserve would be enough to crank that D8800 4 cyl enough to make enough heat with the compression lever on 1/2 or run. If the diesel has enough wear on it, less compression it will be harder to start in real cold temperatures, having enough battery reserve and wear on the electric starter come to mind. Something to consider, not sure if anyone can suggest some ideas for cold weather starting.


In my experience with one that has a good running diesel, without a lot of wear, good compression, electric starter will work great in warm weather, and probably down into the mid 40's, maybe a bit lower, still probably crank enough to do the job, but once you are in the teens, could be problematic. My 4T will fire effortlessly in summer weather, soon as you turn the compression lever to run and give it some throttle, it runs without any popping or smoke, but in cold temps, 20's and below, that starting motor earns it's keep, it has to spin that motor quite a bit, get that coolant warmed a bit, and oil pressure to register, and still, if you put compression to it to soon, it will bog right down, 24 HP motor, better to let it spin awhile longer, after it's warmed up a bit, it will start popping off and run. Just my own experience, hard to understand how an electric starter would perform in cold temperatures, 20's and below.

Starting engines are definitely a maintenance item, and there are some important things to know about them, but once you have it straightened out, they seem to run well enough to get the job done in some real cold temperatures, if you don't need to run in the cold, this might not be an issue, but beware, that D8800 does need to spin or be preheated somehow in the bitter cold temps, no way I can see, just moving the lever to compression and cranking it over with an electric starter, and it firing right up without having the block warmed up, glow plugs or some other means to pre-heat, I hate using ether.

[SJ]

Old Magnet on here is the expert on the conversions to electric start so I,m sure he,ll chime in to you today.

[Old Magnet]

The 7M is not to bad to convert.....at least they give you a mounting flange possibility, unlike other models. Still needs an adapter plate or reworked drive nose housing to mount the starter in place of the old pony motor. Attached couple of examples for the 40MT starter.

[Doug Swenson]

Old Magnet, My problem all came about when My torque links broke and parts went flying! I destroyed the top clutch enclosure, sheared one link pull bolt and starter pinion (deformed). I got the links and Bolt all fixed and got running by push starting it. I really would like to stay with the pony motor but to do so I need that top case assem. PN 2F3317 and I need to do a valve job on the pony. If I were to convert it I was just going to jump start it with my powerstroke (with dual batteries) rather than buying, installing, and maintaining batteries on her (Bertha the cat).
I ran accross this web site (ACMOC) this summer and have been reading the forums Daily. I cannot tell you how much I enjoy and apprecieate yours and everyone elses info. I bought my Cat before it was COOL to have one. I've had her for 25 yrs and use her seasonally for farm cleanup, burying rock piles,pushing old fence line burms out, to removal of old tree belts. Over the years I have developed a real joy of running her.
Any help to locate a top case assem. would be greatly apprecieated or can you tell me in detail what I all need to convert it over to electric start. My serial number is D7M5830. Thanks for being here, Doug

[Old Magnet]

Hi Doug,
Appears the clutch cover has been changed out already as the cover for a 7M5830 would be a #1F7088. If you have the #2F3317 cover that unit was used from 7M6347 - up and throughout the 3T series (with dry clutch).
Can't tell you where to get one but with that range there shouldn't be a problem finding one.

The only challenge to the direct start on the 7M is the mounting adapter. To my knowledge they are not available separately and have to be fabricated or the whole unit purchased from a specialty supplier. The basic starter is a clockwise rotation Delco Remy model 40MT or 42MT with the helical drive gear conversion in either 12v or 24v (recommended).

[Doug Swenson]

Old Magnet, My top cover is the original PN 1F7088, I am pretty sure I won't find that part so I am looking for the later model one 2F3317 thinking I will have a better chance of finding one (not broken like mine)! I still think the later model one will fit as long as I can also get the access cover with it. I think that was the only change made on them? As far as the electric starter goes, all I need is the delco model starter 40 or 42 and then I have to fabricate a mounting flange-adapter to bolt it to? How do I locate the position for the hole to mount it or is there a hole already there that I have not seen? Would Jim Zimmerman have a top enclosure? Thanks Doug

[Old Magnet]

The three hole flange you see is what you will have to work with once the pony is removed. The adaption is to get the starter drive end housing to mount to this flange. The standard 40/42MT starter will come with a nose that requires alteration or adaption to match the mounting flange and clear the flywheel as well as maintain the correct engagement depth.

The starter drive (straight tooth) that comes with the starter is not usable and needs to be changed out for the RH helical (11 or 12 tooth) drive. Same one that all the Cat pony to direct electric start conversions use.

[Doug Swenson]

Old Magnet, I am going to try and locate a used top cover first and try to keep my pony running, if everything goes against me in the next couple of weeks then were gona switch it out and I'll start locating a starter and we'll get this figured out. I'll keep you posted, I REALLY APPRECIEATE YOUR HELP-THANK YOU Doug

[Old Magnet]

No problem, that would buy you some time to get the electric start together.

Did a parts search on www.machinerytrader.com
Florin Tractor (Ca.) shows they have a 2F3317 in stock.
916-383-0317