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Thread: D2 Track Removal

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Southern Indiana
    Posts
    38

    Default D2 Track Removal

    I have a 5U series D2 that has a leaking final drive. I thought I’d tear into it, but I’m having problems getting the track apart. Over the years I’ve had other machines that I have been able to split the track, but I’m having trouble with this one. I’ve found the master link pin (solid pin, not OEM) and have used my home made pin press that uses a 12 ton bottle jack to attempt to press the pin out, but with little success. I heated the links on each end of the pin and was able to move the pin about 1/8”, but that’s it. I’ve done more heating and have attempted to push the pin back, but no luck.
    My next move is to drill out the center of the pin in an effort to weaken the pin and then push again.
    Any other ideas?

    Thanks
    54D2

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Faunsdale, AL USA
    Posts
    1,788

    Default

    You might have more luck cutting out the end of the pin with the torch than drilling it, but that's just me. Before you do that, rig up a drive pin and hit it with a big sledge a few times after you get it hot. Sometimes a shock like that will do what the steady push of a press won't do.
    D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare time

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Perth, Western Australia.
    Posts
    897

    Default

    12 ton is nowhere near enough to remove an old master pin. You need at least 50 tons pressure. A 14 lb sledgehammer, wielded properly, can apply up to 100 tons with each hard-hitting smack.

    First - soak the pin and link in your favorite panther pee overnight. Diesel or kero will do, if you have nothing better. Build a little "dam" with wood putty to hold the penetrant against the pin/link, to assist with penetration. Do both outside and inside links with penetrant.

    Position the master pin about shin to knee height, at front or rear of tractor. This is a good hitting height for a sledgehammer.
    Secure the pin, links and track chain against movement, by standing a big hardwood block on end against the track shoe, at an angle, and drive the tractor up against the wood block until it jams the track against the idler or sprocket. Then lock the brakes, and block the track.

    Place a bucking bar of heavy weight, well secured against a solid surface, behind the track master link. This ensures that any hit is fully transferred to the link and pin, and not dissipated in track movement.

    Fabricate a big drift, if you don't have one, from a section of old truck axle .. just slightly smaller diameter than the pin .. and weld a 2' long, "U" shaped handle to it, made from 1/2" or 5/8" round bar.
    Get an able assistant to hold the drift against the pin, and get out your 14 pounder, and slam some good accurate hits on that drift.

    If you don't have a helper, you can fabricate a holding assembly for the drift or drive pin, out of heavy tubing, well supported by splayed legs .. in which case, the handle will not be needed.

    Ensure that you and your helper wear face protection from any possible flying steel chips, as well as gloves. Leather welders apron is also a good protection investment.

    A dozen good hits will see that pin well on its way. Nothing beats the simple application of accurate hits with a big sledgehammer to recalcitrant parts ..

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Long Island N.Y
    Posts
    362

    Post D2 Track Removal

    I have tried all ways possible, I have only had luck with a torch and burring out the pins. best of luck just take your time and you will get it.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    park city utah
    Posts
    107

    Default

    I had the same problem with my d2.
    I could'nt pay anyone enough to hold the punch for me.So I made alittle bracket that bolted onto the track next to the rail this little goodie held my punch free of charge.I then hit the pin as hard as a 53 year old guy could and i got it out!
    I'm sure you realize that some punches usually the home made ones are made out very hard(brittle) metal.Pieces of this can and will break off and come at you like a 3006 deer rifle.
    So what ever you use be careful,for there could be flying bullets in the area!!!!!!
    GOOD LUCK COMPRESSOR

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Perth, Western Australia.
    Posts
    897

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by compressor
    I had the same problem with my d2.
    I could'nt pay anyone enough to hold the punch for me
    LOL!! .. and to think I did this for years, and only got paid, idiot owner wages!! ..

    Compressor is right on the steel composition of the drift or drive pin. The material in the drift or pin must NOT be be a hard, brittle steel .. mild steel is quite satisfactory .. but truck axles make the best drifts and pins, due to them being a tough, low alloy steel, with good impact strength. Cutting them with the gas-axe and allowing them to cool naturally, allows a degree of softening that asists in reducing fracturing.

    As with all hammering with any hammers .. big or small .. you should never strike two hardened surfaces together, this is a recipe for wearing a chunk of steel in your body.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Elkhorn, WI
    Posts
    1,645

    Default old stone drill

    The kind you hit with a hammer works great! They are made to be hit with a hammer which means the stem is softer than the tip. Just heat and air cool the hardened steel tip which should soften it up some. Grind the sides of the flutes to match the stem. Then get the helper to hold it with the handle extension that is described by others. You swing the hammer because your helper will never swing it straight or hard enough. (I know!) Heat the links red hot, then heat them some more. The pin will come out about the time you get tired and discouraged.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Eastern Oregon
    Posts
    966

    Default

    If you've got a helper to hold the drift, use some cable for a handle. If you don't like said helper, by all means use a chunk of 1/2" or 3/4" solid shaft. The use of the solid handle will ensure he's not gonna much care for you either after the first or second off center hit with the sledge . Using a chunk of cable brazed to the drift will absorb a lot of shock and doesn't "tingle" the hands as much. .

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    ILL
    Posts
    110

    Default

    If the pins and bushings are little worn all you have to do is take the bracket's off that hold the idiler in place. The idiler will move back enough and the track will come off in one piece. Have done it this way on all my smaller crawlers. Mike

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Avon, Ms 38723 USA
    Posts
    168

    Default

    Oz Doz done worn me out just reading his post------------brought my mind back to the late 70's when we changed out the tracks on my old TD-14 IH.

    I've still got the 16 lb sledge hammer-----------and used to be man enough to give it a real work out.

    So tired right now just from "remembering that old sledge hammer"---------ain't even sure I could pick it up right now.

    -----------------and the old TD-14 has one track on backwards right now. Left the boys at the shop to install the last track after we had removed the old one------------and damn if they didn't put it on backwards. Never got around to reversing it (musta been for a reason???) .

    Delta Dirt
    Delta Dirt
    Avon, Ms 38723

    D2 5U and other scrap iron

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