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Thread: Cracked Block?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Redding CA
    Posts
    32

    Default Cracked Block?

    Hey all,
    I have what looks like a repaired crack in the block of my D2. This is behind the injection pump. I would have never noticed it except I was cleaning the block up after I removed the ip.

    My guess is that the crack was caused by water freezing in the water jacket behind number 2 cylinder. Any other opinions as to the reason for the repair are of course welcome.

    I'm not really concerned about it. After all it has been this way for at least thirty years without causing any problems.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Corralitos, Ca.
    Posts
    7,055

    Default

    You are correct....freeze crack....quite common on the D2's and D4's in that location. Repairs, either welding or epoxy seem to hold up quite well. Not normally a very stressed area of the block.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Virginia
    Posts
    253

    Default

    Years ago I saw a picture of a crack repair that looked good. They drilled and tapped holes all around the area (a square bolt pattern), then bolted a rubber gasket and brass plate over the crack. The person said it had been repaired like that for years with no leaking.

    I had a D7-17A that had a long crack in the water pump cover. I repaired it will nickel welding rod. The slow weld method where you don't let the piece get very hot, so you have to weld a little at a time. It held up nicely.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Nampa, ID
    Posts
    49

    Default

    I've taken a cracked block and drilled a hole at each end of the crack to stop it from spreading, then heated the block, at the crack, cherry red and used a mig welder to weld it. I ground out the crack a little with a hand grinder and never had a problem. This entire procedure takes about an hour or less.
    So far, I've had very good luck with cast and a mig welder. I can hardly use my stick welder anymore.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    As said above, Hood River county, Oregon.
    Posts
    577

    Default

    I bought D2 5J3691 (1941) in 1969, with a plate bolted over the hole in the water jacket. It was probably one of the reasons I got the Cat for a short song. I've never touched it. It has never leaked or caused any problem. The Cat is still in service after 40 years with me, and the plate is just black steel, probably with the gasket completely covering the face of the plate. I'm not sure, I've never messed with it.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Redding CA
    Posts
    32

    Default

    The weld looks like a high nickel rod was used. It also appears that they used a stitch technique. I'm guessing a stick welder was used.

    Like I said in my op it hasn't been a problem for thirty years and I don't see it being a problem for another thirty.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    MELLEN WI
    Posts
    195

    Default

    Here is my cracked D4400. What a ugly weld. But it wasn't leaking so I guess all is well.


  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Dallas Pa.
    Posts
    1,902

    Default Cracked Block

    Give it a paint job and it will look like nothing ever happened to it. As long as it doesn,t leak then that,s the main thing.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Fallbrook, California
    Posts
    15

    Default

    bgates

    Hi I assume you used acty with a welding tip to get the crack cherry red is this correct? Did you just heat the crack as opposed to the whole piece? In my case the crack is d2 pony motor block.

    Also anyone if I use a stick machine with nickel rod should I preheat the crack or just weld it cold?
    Thanks
    bob

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