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Thread: D2 pony compression

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Idaho
    Posts
    14

    Default D2 pony compression

    I picked up an old D2 last summer. It's about a 1950 model. The seller was able to get the pony going, but it was "finicky". There was rust in the gas tank, and the carb controls had to be "just right" to get it started and keep running. When I got it home, I got the gas tank cleaned and lined, and rebuilt the carb (new float, needle and seat, gaskets, etc.). The weather then turned sour. With the weather warming, I'd like to get back at it. The pony compression is between 60 and 65 pounds (both sides). Is that sufficient, or should I be thinking about trying to "refresh" it (and is that very difficult?). I understand parts can be hard to come by.

    Also, the track adjustment nuts are pretty rusty - how difficult might it be to free them up?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Okc, OK
    Posts
    130

    Default

    I don't know about the compression, but on the track adjusters, I soaked mine with penetrating oil, resoaking them several times over the last 6 months, then loosened everything up, and used an air chisel to slightly spread the slits in the adjuster nuts. then hit on the edge of the nut with the air chisel til they turned a little, went to a big crescent wrench to finish adjusting. About 15 minutes per side. Mine is a 1944 d25j

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Cumberland Wi
    Posts
    245

    Default

    I have several and all are in the 55-75 range. All start and run fine ,so I do not believe it should cause you any trouble. I have never seen the new or newly rebuilt figures.

    Matt
    RD4,RD6 ,D73T, #11 Grader, 977F

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Petaluma
    Posts
    343

    Default

    There's nothing to worry about but if you did put new rings you'd have to pull the pony completely off so you can pull the top part of the pony which is were the carb and mag and manifolds go then pull the valve springs and lifters then pull the cam then you can get at the connecting rods so in other words complete tear down!

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