Pull the floor plate up, that's the plate with the T handles under the dash . The timing cover is on top of the flywheel housing.
Bob

"bluox" wrote:

Pull the floor plate up, that's the plate with the T handles under the dash . The timing cover is on top of the flywheel housing.
Bob

your the best thank you bob

There is kind of a "no man's land" between the two detent mechanism positions.

"Old wrote:

There is kind of a "no man's land" between the two detent mechanism positions.

Does that mean that was not my problem? Or am I just grasping?

Thanks Old Magnet.

No, I'm saying it is possible to be "hung up" in the in between position.
I would be inclined to go looking for a replacement lever and shaft if you can find one.

Pull the front valve cover off, you need to do this to set #1 on top center and you can watch the intake valves when you turn the compression release. They will be held off the seats for release.

Bob

"bluox" wrote:

Pull the front valve cover off, you need to do this to set #1 on top center and you can watch the intake valves when you turn the compression release. They will be held off the seats for release.

Bob

Okay got the valve cover off on first three cylinders
I have the flywheel cover pointer off and can now see the flywheel
I thought I can use the starter to line it up to compression stroke TDC but no luck.

How do I manually move the engine? And should the exhaust valves be closed when on TDC? Thank you

Use the starter to get as close as you can then pry bar through the timing indicator hole to engage the ring gear teeth for final movement. Timing indicator can be removed (risky) to prevent it from getting damaged. Other option is to rotate from the damper mounting bolts at the front of the crankshaft if you can get access. Another is a turning tool that engages the flywheel in place of the starter. Have the compression released while turning.

At #1 TDC both the intake and exhaust valves should be closed and the rockers should have backlash.

"Old wrote:

Use the starter to get as close as you can then pry bar through the timing indicator hole to engage the ring gear teeth for final movement. Timing indicator can be removed (risky) to prevent it from getting damaged. Other option is to rotate from the damper mounting bolts at the front of the crankshaft if you can get access. Another is a turning tool that engages the flywheel in place of the starter. Have the compression released while turning.

At #1 TDC both the intake and exhaust valves should be closed and the rockers should have backlash.

Well it was to say the least a tough day.... I got the injection pump back on and engaged properly it took some time... Anyone doing this in the future make sure all your studs are in so they align the gear teeth correctly... Before I put her in the IP pump I took the dowel and aligned the holes for timing for the pump...

Interesting note I finally figured out that TDC 1 was the second cylinder on the first head closest to the driver seat... In my service book it does not show firing order.... go figure... I verified both intake and exhaust valves where closed... I do believe after setting it that the IP was way out of timing... When I set it to the correct mark verifying on flywheel. I believe it said TC 136... You have to be careful on the flywheel it shows TC for all cylinders so you have to match it up... My point is the collar when I set it was backward meaning the bolts to loosen the cam to the IP was backwards not showing all 4 bolts like one would think... I did not have to loosen as the IP pump was set prior to install and after TC 136...

Verified through dowel when all done...

Number 1 cylinder will be the cylinder closest to the radiator. Ie; at the front.
Firing order is 1 5 3 6 2 4.
Not shure what you have dont there.