Two things I have thought of,

1) Is there a small metal filter bowl with a metal screen down very low on the side of the motor on the supply line from the tank? 8's had these and were often overlooked when servicing.

2) Should that tractor have an ejector exhaust stack? if so, has been missing for long, this could very well be a very tired dusted engine, overhauled or not it will not take long if the ejector is not there to collapse an air cleaner and dust a motor. Then not to say anything and just fit new elements.

"Wombat" wrote:

Two things I have thought of,

1) Is there a small metal filter bowl with a metal screen down very low on the side of the motor on the supply line from the tank? 8's had these and were often overlooked when servicing.

Is this the one?

"Wombat" wrote:

Two things I have thought of,

1) Is there a small metal filter bowl with a metal screen down very low on the side of the motor on the supply line from the tank? 8's had these and were often overlooked when servicing.

2) Should that tractor have an ejector exhaust stack? if so, has been missing for long, this could very well be a very tired dusted engine, overhauled or not it will not take long if the ejector is not there to collapse an air cleaner and dust a motor. Then not to say anything and just fit new elements.

Yes to both questions.
There should be a prefilter ahead of the transfer pump.
For this s/n there is a dust ejector system but this version draws from the air pre-filter and routed to the exhaust elbow. If it had an extension pipe on the exhaust it would be double wall. The connection at the elbow looks like a hat section added on to the discharge. Can't tell what the material is but if it's steel would be a prime candidate for rot.

Never did get any feedback on what the actual fuel pressure is, apparently the gauge doesn't work either.

"gvanhouten" wrote:

Is there anything I can do to help seat those rings??? I have soaked the cylinders with Mystery Oil with the glow plugs out overnight and then turned over the engine to prevent hydro lock...

Don’t think so. For me even just starting my machine a few times wasn’t enough. I had to push dirt for a couple hours and that made the difference.
On the latest video there was lots of smoke down on the side of the engine too. Blow by from the rings I’m thinking. But to be fair I’m new at this game too.
I’d get some starting fluid, gas rag, or propane on it when she’s putting heavy grey smoke at full throttle and see if it lights off. And ease off on the glow plugs too. Once grey smoke comes it’s warm enough

"Old wrote:

Yes to both questions.
There should be a prefilter ahead of the transfer pump.
For this s/n there is a dust ejector system but this version draws from the air pre-filter and routed to the exhaust elbow. If it had an extension pipe on the exhaust it would be double wall. The connection at the elbow looks like a hat section added on to the discharge. Can't tell what the material is but if it's steel would be a prime candidate for rot.

Never did get any feedback on what the actual fuel pressure is, apparently the gauge doesn't work either.

In the picture that was provided for the prefilter it is missing the bowl... My D9G has the bowl and I did replace the filter in the primary. And as mentioned earlier the secondary as well... Lastly dumped the old diesel and filled it with new...

In addition. The transfer pump is new as well as the fuel pressure gauge... It only draws 5psi until the motor starts then goes to 28psi.

There has been lots of discussion about fuel pressure to the injection pump. A fool proof way to bleed fuel is to put a shop vacuum on blow. Stick the 3" hose in the fuel tank fill port. Stuff shop rags around the hose. Shop vac produces lots of volume, with just the right pressure for bleeding everything. My old 12 never shows any fuel pressure on the gage when cranking with the poney and everything in fuel transfer is new. It has a 1/8 " port in the intake manifold right where the filtered air comes in. It has an old style grease cup with large cap screwed into that port. I need to spray just a touch of start fluid in to make it fire. It needs start fluid every time, even when totally warm.

"oldbeek" wrote:

There has been lots of discussion about fuel pressure to the injection pump. A fool proof way to bleed fuel is to put a shop vacuum on blow. Stick the 3" hose in the fuel tank fill port. Stuff shop rags around the hose. Shop vac produces lots of volume, with just the right pressure for bleeding everything. My old 12 never shows any fuel pressure on the gage when cranking with the poney and everything in fuel transfer is new. It has a 1/8 " port in the intake manifold right where the filtered air comes in. It has an old style grease cup with large cap screwed into that port. I need to spray just a touch of start fluid in to make it fire. It needs start fluid every time, even when totally warm.

Thank you for your help... I am away from the dozer until next Wednesday and I will be on it like bees on honey... I have a ton of new parts to throw at her... New vent valve new gaskets ect for the IP. I really want to ship it out to the guy and just bite the bullet and have it rebuilt. He wants $1800.00 to tear it apart clean it and diagnose everything... Seems a little mutch. What do you guys think I should pay to have it redone? And if you know a great shop for these old pumps let me know....

The injector pump is 6 injector pumps it's a very simple unit, I feel you need to not waste your coins and get it back on the engine after you have given it a good inspection. tctractors

After watching the video it looks to me you've got a timing issue,I'm not familiar with the 9g but with a 8k you can mix up the injection pipes and will puff blow by.

The thing about having the injection pump checked out off the tractor is it's best to adjust the lifters in it on the engine to get the timing right. Adjusting the lifters with the pump installed on the engine compensates for any wear in the drive train of the pump. Doing it off the engine would not allow that.