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$44 /year ELECTRONIC

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New 943 owner, I just couldn't help myself.

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1 year 10 months ago #225644 by dpendzic
so was that block bored out and sleeves added sometime?

D2, D3, D4, D6, 941B, Cat 15
Hancock Ma and Moriches NY

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1 year 9 months ago - 1 year 9 months ago #225946 by Steve A
Yes, It was board and sleeved before.

A few interesting things I found, check out the gouge worn in the side of the drive motor, the hydraulic hose fittings were worn through in 2 spots. This hose goes to the oil cooler next to radiator, the original was 1 piece, somewhere along the way was pieced together with the joint in a bad spot.

Regarding the worn spots on the fuel injector likes, would it be acceptable to braze them to restore strength ? Yes, It was board and sleeved before.

A few interesting things I found, check out the gouge worn in the side of the drive motor, the hydraulic hose fittings were worn through in 2 spots. This hose goes to the oil cooler next to radiator, the original was 1 piece, somewhere along the way was pieced together with the joint in a bad spot.

Regarding the worn spots on the fuel injector likes, would it be acceptable to braze them to restore strength ?
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Last edit: 1 year 9 months ago by Steve A.

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1 year 9 months ago - 1 year 9 months ago #225948 by Rome K/G
Cat should have the new injector lines, for what they cost I wouldn't braze them, could crack and spray fuel on the manifold and there go's the machine up in flames. It's good your going through it and checking things, now you'll have a dependable machine and peace of mind. Also I dont know if you mentioned the hours on the machine but I would open up all the hydraulic and drive pumps if there is allot of hours on the machine, if a pump scatters the whole system has to be disassmbled and cleaned,$$$$$.
Last edit: 1 year 9 months ago by Rome K/G.

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1 year 9 months ago #225973 by edb
Hi Team,
we had a tight wad customer who brazed a worn thru injection pipe on his D8H.
End result was a failed injection pump camshaft lobe and lifter on that cylinder due to the restriction to fuel flow caused by bronze intrusion into the line bore. We explained this was the cause of such a pump failure.
I believe when I repaired his pump this time that it was the it was the second such failure--he was not very complimentary of D342 engines--he was all for re-using his line again until we persuaded him to at least purchase a used replacement one.
His cheap fix ended up costing him mega Dollars.
Cheers,
Eddie B.

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1 year 9 months ago - 1 year 9 months ago #225975 by Rome K/G

Hi Team,
we had a tight wad customer who brazed a worn thru injection pipe on his D8H.
End result was a failed injection pump camshaft lobe and lifter on that cylinder due to the restriction to fuel flow caused by bronze intrusion into the line bore. We explained this was the cause of such a pump failure.
I believe when I repaired his pump this time that it was the it was the second such failure--he was not very complimentary of D342 engines--he was all for re-using his line again until we persuaded him to at least purchase a used replacement one.
His cheap fix ended up costing him mega Dollars.
Cheers,
Eddie B.
Good example edb!
 

Last edit: 1 year 9 months ago by Rome K/G.

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1 year 9 months ago - 1 year 9 months ago #225977 by Steve A
With a quick search I found new aftermarket injector lines for $15 each so its surely not worth the bother or risk to repair.

I am used to working on 1930 cats where finding new parts is not a option, its nice to work on this somewhat modern stuff.

The new pistons came today, they will go to the machine shop so the new liners can be properly sized, The crank gets picked up Thursday, it wont be long until reassembly starts.,

I do not know the hours, meter is unreadable, one of these days I will remove the glass. I dont plan to get into the drive system beyond oil and filter change. I did drain the oil and it looked like new.
Last edit: 1 year 9 months ago by Steve A.

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1 year 9 months ago #226036 by trainzkid88
trying to penny pinch often bites you on the arse. yes brazing the lines just to get you home is acceptable if your in the field and away from suitable supplier.

the lines aren't hard to make any hydraulics shop will have the correct tubing. but at 15 bucks each why bother. it would cost that much just for the parts to make one.

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1 year 7 months ago #227688 by Steve A
Progress report and another question. I am in the final stages of a over hall, cylinders sleeved back to standard, new 3 ring pistons, crank turned .10 rods and mains. Cam bearings, all new valves, head magna fluxed etc. My question for today is can the flywheel be put on wrong ? I have a 3204 assembly manual but it addresses machines with clutches thus different flywheel than I have and it was not clear as to how the crank-flywheel was marked. On my crank there are 3 hash marks, about 120 degrees apart , on the flywheel there is a (1) by one of the bolt holes. I installed it with number 1 piston at TDC and the timing mark in the flywheel lined up with the matching hole in the bell housing. all the bolt holes lined up. I think I am good but it sure would be ugly to find out later I was wrong.

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1 year 7 months ago #227712 by edb
Hi Steve,
the flywheel and crank should be marked with chisel cuts and the bolt pattern should have an offset bolt hole to prevent incorrect alignment.
As these are basically half of a 3208 engine check and see if the flywheel bolt holes go right thru the crank/flywheel mount flange like the 3208 does.
It they do then you have to use 8H5157 Cat Gasket Sealer or equivalent on the bolt threads or oil will transfer from the engine into the flywheel housing.
Cheers,
Eddie B.
The following user(s) said Thank You: Steve A

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1 year 4 months ago #229552 by Steve A
More updates and questions. I am happy to report I drove it out I
of the shop and moved a little dirt.  It sure was fun to hear it start and feel it move. One of my concerns is low idle, I am not sure if the governor is working. 
when moving the throttle from full to the shut  off detent the engine dies about 1/2 way there. I can get it to a low idle if I carefully reduce the throttle lever but if I do it quickly it will stall out. It will start right back up no problem, warm or cold no difference. I did nothing with the injector pump during rebuild. Tractor serial in 04z00461, the engine serial was ground off so I don't know if this is the proper pump. Should the tractor maintain low idle when the throttle is at the shutoff detent?  How is this set ?
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