Plain to see you don't know the tricks about getting around the close fit upper starting bolt. When properly fit the lever housing just clears the pony clutch housing. Still can access the drain plug. What really looks like a cob job is to have the starter solenoid hanging out the side.

Yes, the solenoid could indeed hang down, but I didn't want to grub it around in the mud. Since I don't want a "cob job" I'll mess with it some more this weekend to make sure it won't fit straight up, or maybe it will? Thanks to all, keep those cards and letters coming in! Elton

Actually it isn't quite straight up, it's about a 1:00 o'clock position. Just clears the pony clutch housing. Not quite as good an outboard fit with the 40MT as the 42MT but way better than hanging out the side. Yes.you have to deal with the close fit of the upper starter mounting bolt but I have a solution for that when/if your ready.
I've been through many of these conversions and I know how they fit and work. I'd show you a picture of my installation on the D4 but it is all cluttered up with extra solenoids and wiring to make it a glow-plug and pre-lube installation.
As I recall mounting the solenoid upside down on the D4 places it to close if not interfering with the spring plus upside down mounting is not recommended by Delco.

Old Magnet, I am very interested in your bolt solution. I rechecked this weekend and the bolt head sticks out farther than the housing on the mounting end of the solenoid. It is too thick to clear a stud and nut and the bolt isn't short enough. I haven't ground the bolt down yet, but if you have a solution I would be happy to exchange pictures and information. Thanks! Elton

Thought you'd never ask!!! I used to grind a relief in the lever housing to accommodate a twelve point cap screw and box wrench. Now I have found that late China Knock-off units have castings that are to thin to accept the relief grinding.
My current solution is to obtain a 5/8 x 1-3/4 Button Head cap screw that uses a 3/8" allen/hex wrench.
Put the cap screw in place when assembling the drive end housing. Cut the short leg of the allen wrench back (about half) to where it just clears going into the cap screw. No grinding necessary.
 

Unfortunately you chose the 40MT starter. Although the bolt up works the same the solenoid on the 40MT protrudes farther out than if you had used the 42MT.
Also you can see the clearance for access to the pony clutch/gear housing drain plug for either the 40, 50 or 42 MT starters

Interesting! I never thought of a button head screw! Thank you very much for the info and pictures! My starter guy built me the 40 MT. Is there a power difference if using the 42MT. What I am wondering is whether to take it back and pay more money to have a flat side cover and a more or less powerful starter, or to put a blister on the side cover to clear the solenoid?

The 42MT replaces the 40MT which is now obsolete. Still plenty of power although the 42MT weight is about 8-10 lbs lighter. If anything you might consider the 40MT a little more rugged but features of the 42MT makes it more desirable. One of the main differences is the 40MT uses flat gasket sealing for the lever housing and drive end housing where the 42MT uses o-ring sealing so those parts are not interchangeable. They really are two different starters except for the shared drives.

Vote 42MT - starts 933 no problem 12v. Bob

the tracking will follow all the way but it will rely on what info the overseas service partners provide and how often they provide it usually it is when ever its label is scanned or the paperwork is scanned.
if you have the right sheet metal hammers and dollies you could make a nice rounded bubble but that takes a lot of patience