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Late 1958 D4 7U

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1 month 3 weeks ago - 1 month 3 weeks ago #230036 by projectanavita
Replied by projectanavita on topic Late 1958 D4 7U
On site today ... 20lbs when pushing clutch forward to disengage with a good clunk ... 20-25 when pulling back with no distinct snap.

Will pull filters to check them ... when I bough some last time I bought two sets so I have another set ready to go.

EDIT: took cover off and watched engagement when pulling back clutch ... it does engage at 35lbs so shifting to fuel 
Last edit: 1 month 3 weeks ago by projectanavita.

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1 month 3 weeks ago #230037 by projectanavita
Replied by projectanavita on topic Late 1958 D4 7U
Pulled the fuel filters ... they look fine compared to the ones I took out a month ago.

Also tried to drain the sediment from tank and nothing comes out 0_0 .. what I find odd is the sediment drain is plumbed at the same level as the fuel output :/
flic.kr/p/2md1kMM

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1 month 3 weeks ago #230039 by projectanavita
Replied by projectanavita on topic Late 1958 D4 7U
Just started Brutus, the dozer, back up and he is pushing nearly as hard as he previously did ... the filter conditions are so nebulous it is hard to believe they were clogged up ...

Thanks for the quick help everyone ... now I have to order more filters

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1 month 3 weeks ago #230040 by bursitis
Replied by bursitis on topic Late 1958 D4 7U
probably should get a new fuel pressure gauge also. it should have been the tell tale singe that the filters were clogged.
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1 month 3 weeks ago - 1 month 3 weeks ago #230041 by edb
Replied by edb on topic Late 1958 D4 7U
Hi Team,
I have been hoodwinked due to the BB dropping me in a long way back before the solution was found and posted and do not seem to be able to get rid of this post_________________ so it looks like this waffle is not needed.

am confused by you saying about a special tool to adjust the main clutch--a special tool was available for the dry clutch equipped machines but by your Serial Number you should have an oil clutch--no special tools required apart from some string to tether the spanner used to work on the locking device nuts.
I should alert you that the adjusting ring lock studs are soft steel and it is very easy to strip the threads so just snug them up with a box wrench--make sure you tie a piece of string to any tools you use in the clutch areas as if you drop them they can be difficult to retrieve.
Also the 3" turn mentioned in the text on the adjuster ring may be a bit much--a small angle of turn can make a large change in pounds pull when near the correct adjustment position.
DO NOT forget to tighten the second lock device or the locking device parts make short work of the oil pump drive gearing and shaft as well as anywhere they end up.

Only other drive slip point would be if both steering clutches need adjustment due to wear and are slipping, usually one steer clutch will slip before the other and the tractor starts to steer of in the direction of the slipping clutch.
Be aware that as the steer clutches wear they loose the adjusted in operating lever free travel dimension. When enough wear has taken place the free travel is gone and the clutch then starts to slip under load--it is unusual to have both steer clutches begin to slip at the one time due to a lack of throw out bearing yoke free travel--this is the adjustment of the lever free travel as outlined in the grey OMI book. Check for free travel/looseness at the adjustment nuts on the rod in the throw out yoke eye in the steer clutch compartments.
Sometimes people purchase a long dormant machine and adjust out excessive steer clutch lever free travel that can be caused by rust build up in the clutch plates/discs, as the rust wears away the free travel is used up and so the clutches begin to slip.

If the steer linkages are prevented from fully returning to their stops due to debris build up up on top of the case, or wear in the linkage system you can be tricked into thinking you have free travel but in fact down in the steer clutch compartment there is no free play at the throw out bearing yoke.

Cheers,
Eddie B.
Last edit: 1 month 3 weeks ago by edb. Reason: BB operation confusion by me.
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1 month 2 weeks ago - 1 month 2 weeks ago #230166 by projectanavita
Replied by projectanavita on topic Late 1958 D4 7U
UPDATE:
Ran good for 1 day then back to not pushing a full load >__<

Ordered 8 more filters ... when they come I will fully drain off the fuel filter housing and re-prime when replacing the filters. We are also trying to find an inline fuel water separator as we assume water is what is plugging up the filters at this point.

Marked where I am getting pressure at full rpm on the housing so I know what to look for next time (little line right to needle) 
 
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Last edit: 1 month 2 weeks ago by projectanavita.

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1 month 2 weeks ago #230167 by bursitis
Replied by bursitis on topic Late 1958 D4 7U
check the vent in the fuel cap? but i guess if it runs bad with cap unscrewed then that problem would be eliminated. put a can of seafoam in the tank to dry up water
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1 month 2 weeks ago #230187 by trainzkid88
Replied by trainzkid88 on topic Late 1958 D4 7U
racor make good water traps. the cav type water traps can be "fun" to seal the secret is a little smear of oil on the seals and dont over tighten they come with glass bowl metal and plastic bowls are available.

diesel bug can also be a issue a quality diesel conditioner such as chemtech diesel power will help stop diesel bug and also keep the injection pump seals supple with todays extra low sulphur fuel.
most injector cleaners have additives for dealing with water. liqui-moly have a very good one on the market.

it may be a good idea to completely drain the fuel tank, steam clean it and refill with fresh fuel with fuel conditioner. keep the old fuel for cleaning parts.
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1 month 1 week ago #230391 by projectanavita
Replied by projectanavita on topic Late 1958 D4 7U
update:
Threw in a water trap w/ 3/8" barbs inline under the governor and replaced the filters while draining the housing. Fuel pressure was slightly lower from the start vs where I was previously ... ran good for 1/2 the day, started to get warm/hot and started to push less material toward the end.

Parked Brutus, shut him down, then checked clutch / trans / final drive fluids ... clutch was low 1 quart (leaks god knows where) and final drives were a little low. Topped off started back up and checked for changes ... still bogged down ... I suspect the clutch is just getting too hot and so is the engine to some extent ...

We are going to try to start Brutus only when we need him and then let him sit to cool turned off to see if that makes a difference. We are literally running him all day and idling him when not used as he is a PITA to start sometimes (just installed our third belt so he is easier to restart now)

The only other odd thing today is the blade (4 way) was tilting to the side similar to how it did when we first got the machine and there wasn't enough hydro fluid in the main tank ... topped both the main and secondary tank but I couldn't confirm a change as Brutus was so bogged down he barely moved in 1st gear while turning >__<

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1 month 1 week ago #230396 by bursitis
Replied by bursitis on topic Late 1958 D4 7U
so the fuel pressure stays up even when it bogs down? maybe adjust the fan belt and blow compressed air to clean out the radiator fins from dirt and debris. your main clutch is an oil clutch? how hot is the engine getting? on the gauge?
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