- Posts: 1185
- Thank you received: 10
Toby, thank you so much for taking some of your precious time to look at the pics and to reply, you are an inspiration to me (and to many others on this site I'm sure). I'm never going to have the time or resource to complete a machine to your standard so I'm very very excited to get one in such awesome condition to start with! I'll certainly be cleaning and polishing when it arrives (along with replacing all oils, fluids, and filters) and will post some more pics once I have. I will need to dismantle the back end to tighten up the pinion bearings (as you have explained in detail in your videos) but that's a small job compared to tackling frozen blocks, rusty main and steering clutches!
Neil, as usual, you are dead right, in this case, I knew exactly what I wanted to say but didn't have the right terminology in my head. Thanks for correcting me. It is the bevel gear shaft (you might say the rear 'axle') that is loose as it is moving laterally when pressure is put on it by the steering clutch lever (exactly like Toby's 5J1113). I remember reading a CAT service bulletin posted on here recently (I can't seem to find it now) that it was a known problem with the D2's mainly used for Ag work with a lot of straight line pulling and they instructed to remove enough shims behind the bearing caps to adjust the pre-load back to what it should be, being sure to check in the backlash and mesh of the teeth with the pinion at the same time. I'm sort of hoping that if the bevel gear bearings are Timkens and in still good condition that readjusting the pre-load will be sufficient as I understand you need to press off the bevel gear to replace them. Someone might re-post the bulletin if they have it to hand, if so, it would be hugely appreciated.
Thanks Delta! The 5U series (up until somewhere in 1953) had exactly the same track frame and track length as the 5J series and the top roller was an optional extra. After Serial #5U13237 when Cat extended the chassis to make the main clutch fully serviceable I think the top roller became standard with the longer track frames. This is a 1950 model (Serial #5U5373) so before that change.
BTW.. That's a nice tractor!
Thanks SO much for your detailed help Neil, it is truly appreciated. I don't have a parts book for the tractor as of yet, so I would have been scratching around for those part numbers! I presume you are meaning there is no way of forcing the bearing shells out of the covers? If I'm going to replace the bearings I probably would shrink them out using a bead of weld (like Toby shows in his videos), but I can't see why I would need to put a hole through the shims (if I was to make a forcing screw hole) aren't the shells separate from the bearing cone, rollers, and inner race? I thought they simply could be withdrawn from the shaft including the seal once the 4 bolts are removed, at least that's the way Toby does it in the video below (unless the 5U series is different of course)
Bearings were Bower. They were good ones that's for sure, but I replaced them anyway because they were stained, and I replace all bearings if I don't know the history (which means every single bearing on my 5U has been replaced except a little tiny one on the end of the governor shaft). You'll need a pair of new seals too. Mine were Chicago Rawhide (CR) and super solid construction.
Nut locks 2B1738 qty 8, seals 4B3675 qty 2, cup 1B3978 qty 2, cone 1B3890 qty 2 - I picked up the cones from Florin. I had to put Speedisleeves on the seal surfaces 99175 SKF Speedi-Sleeve 1.75, in case you need to replace any of that stuff, although do check your parts catalog in case you have different numbers
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