Non-existant user wrote:

the KING got luckly today, big time, LOL. so i worked my magic with the torch and it popped off with a couple of taps.

THAT MUST HAVE BEEN SOME GOOD MAGIC,WHERE CAN I GET SOME OF IT?
GOOD JOB!
TAKE CARE AND HAVE A GOOD ONE1
PAUL

KoO,
Did you find anything more on the track truck alignment. If the sprockets rims are not weld on (misaligned) and there is room for adjustment on the inner pivot of the track frame and you've done all you can with the shims then it's time to check the stuff the manual doesn't tell you like how far up the splines the sprocket hub is pressed and the location of the pressed in dead axle. Not good news but now is the time to check with the tracks off.

Non-existant user wrote:

the KING got luckly today, big time, LOL. i was changing the seals on where the shaft goes through the crown gear and found a toasted bearing. of cousre it is the hard one that you can't see behind the crown gear. so i worked my magic with the torch and it popped off with a couple of taps.(remember i can only see about 1/4 of an inch of this bearing) i was so lucky that the torch never even came close to the shaft. then i used my GREAT WHITE NORTH power pack and pressed on a new old stock bearing on.
it was a good day in the KINGDOM and only -35C.

thansk

Hey King, I see how you pressed the coupler back on the tapered shaft, but what kinda equipment (rig ) did u use to get the coupler off.

dirt dog, i used the torch and nicked the crap out of it to get it off, very lucky day, LOL

old magnet, i think i found the problem. some fellow who didn't have a book or access to the intenet got carried away with the shims. take a look, get rid of the shims and everything will go back to centre, or be very close.

thansk

also did some welding in the track frame thingy area, so click on and see it on shop floor talk.

www.shopfloortalk.com/forums/showthread.php?p=137713#post137713

thansk

Hi KoO,
No wonder the bugger was out of align. LOL You didn't read me the fine print.
Dropped on its side will do it every time. Glad to see you are making her right again, at least as close as possible. Not to tight up against that dead axle nut I hope.

Dirt Dog, I think there is some confusion. The coupling can be removed one of two ways. Two 5/8 jack bolts through the coupler pushing against the heads of two bolts for the bearing cage or use the stubby hydraulic cylinder and puller bar. I believe it was the bearing race that got the torch job. KoO, did I get it right?

yes old magnet, it was the bearing race, if i had screwed it up, then 2 more days to pull the crown gear shaft, got lucky,LOL
yes the track frame arm is right against the dead axle nut, so i'll remove the shims and it will have enough room. like to know where the fellow got all the shims from, LOL they are all the same thickness so they were bought at caterpillar, LOL i hope the fellow was not the head mechanic for a fleet of winter freighting cats. think of all the sprockets that are woren on one side plus all the shims that were order from caterpillar (capterpillar parts man must have stocked up on shims because this fellow was ordering every week. once he got fired, caterpillar parts man never sold a shim in 10 years, LOL)

thansk

"Old wrote:

Dirt Dog, I think there is some confusion. The coupling can be removed one of two ways. Two 5/8 jack bolts through the coupler pushing against the heads of two bolts for the bearing cage or use the stubby hydraulic cylinder and puller bar. I believe it was the bearing race that got the torch job. KoO, did I get it right?

Koo and OM - thanx, the coupling was what I was curious about, I understand now.

dd

thansk, it was a hard place to do a photo shoot

thansk

well is was a good day in the KINGDOM with a little welding happening. i welded up the saddle and got it all straight. plus it was warm enough for the loader out and bring up a few spare parts, LOL

thansk