Hi all, I know someone has mentioned it before regarding what the minimum one has to do to remove a sprocket but I couldn't find it. What I'd like to know is what is the absolute minimum I can get away with in order to remove/replace a sprocket, specifically:
- can I swing the track frame up far enough, or does it have to be removed?
- If I can swing the frame up enough, does that require removing the main spring, assuming the other track frame stays on the ground?
I know I'd need to disconnect the rails so that will be done regardless

The answer will determine whether I do this now before plow day in October, or in winter when it's laid up until spring and I work on the track frames anyway. I'm guessing since the sprocket splines are worn out (the reason for swapping it out), a few more hours of work won't be a disaster unless it means that the sprocket shaft splines might also be damaged? 
I'm actually after a sprocket with good splines but worn-out teeth, because my teeth are in great shape (30%) so I'd prefer to remove the sprocket, swap the teeth over, and refit the new center with my old teeth. I think I've talked myself into leaving it until winter : )

Anyone local with a usable sprocket with bad teeth?


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Hi Neil,
I have removed the track on my D2 5J without splitting the chain. I backed the idler right off as far as it would go and juggled the chain complete with pads off. Once off, I was able to remove the sprocket without having to remove the track frame as Gary has said.
It may be different with a U series tractor.
 

Thanks gents. John, my rail is easy to undo because I have the split master pin arrangement so that's not an issue. Did you remove your main spring as well like Scott did? The J-series might have a bit of different geometry if you could leave the spring set. In any case, I'll give it a try first to see if it's possible, but it's not a huge deal to remove it, particularly because every single nut and bolt on this machine has been refurbished. I'm not averse to trimming the back of the frame where it doesn't compromise any structural integrity.
My understanding is that the sprocket splines are a softer material than the shaft although I don't know that for sure. I doubt that I have more than maybe 50 hours to run on it before I lay it up for winter and attend to the undercarriage but definitely don't want to compromise the shaft

It was many years ago I did the work, but I’m pretty sure that I did not remove the equaliser spring, maybe I removed the nut securing the track frame and pulled it out a bit so the sprocket would clear it. Gary’s experience is far more recent that mine so likely to be more accurate.

Righto, sounds good. It will all come apart easily. Wish I hadn't installed the belly pan though : )
I'm curious now as to the total oscillation of the track frames - would anyone know how much the frame will go up (degrees) relative to the engine, if the other frame goes down by an equal amount__PRESENT