Wombat wrote:

Looks like someone has been a bit slow backing off pushing a tree, roots have come up and pulled the bottom radiator guard out, just a convenient spot for a stick to get up into the radiator, I would fix that before working the tractor, radiators are expensive. It is otherwise a very tidy looking tractor.

Wombat
More like the blade got pushed up and shoved the cable block into the grill.
 

Wombat, you are right on the money, at least that is what I was told. The previous owner died in 1990 and the machine had sat covered in a barn ever since. I will get it fixed asap.

Welcome back! I suggest you get these books
Craig
Operation And Maintenance Instructions book:
www.ebay.com/itm/372987428526?hash=item5...e:g:f88AAOSwhj1hErCp
and Parts Book:
www.ebay.com/itm/194754445763?hash=item2...3:g:hWAAAOSwc7Nh6gc8
and Service Manual:
www.ebay.com/itm/155049355009?hash=item2...1:g:wtoAAOSwudxiaEF6

Hi, Michael Crowe.
On running bigger machines:
1. Learn to 'think bigger' than your D4.
2. Bigger machines are more stable than smaller ones.
3. The earlier D8s did have a bit of a front-heavy 'personality' - you need to be pretty aware of the fore-n-aft balance while working - not that they are likely to stand on their head, just harder to do fine work with them but it CAN be done.
4. Lifting the seat a few inches - 3-4" - can make a big difference in what you can see around the machine.

On another note, if that is (almost) all genuine 13A, then somebody has done a pretty fair job of putting a 14A hood and firewall on it.

Thanks for sharing and ENJOY.

Just my 0.02.

Deas Plant, it is a very late, 13A, and it appears it came that way. All the paint is faded the same.
And John, I have purchased all those manuals.

Mine has a double drum cable control unit and I'll get a manual for it, but can someone tell me what type and weight of oil goes in it? Thanks.

Some use 80W-90 gear oil, I use Cat 50W drive train oil.