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Need guidance for some amateur welding

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1 month 3 weeks ago #239625 by neil
Hi folks, until we get organized on fitting the new sprocket rims to the Traxcavator, I plan to run a few beads on the tooth tips so this machine can move itself around. Could someone please advise what rods to use (type, size) and what amperage to run through it, and whether work positive or work negative and whether AC or DC (I think DC?). I'm no welder as you can tell by the questions but I can probably apply enough bird guano to make this thing mobile. I'm figuring I might apply 2-3 rods per tooth tip but we'll see once we get going

Cheers,
Neil

Pittsford, NY

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1 month 3 weeks ago - 1 month 3 weeks ago #239626 by Rome K/G
Clean and preheat area to be welded, use 1/8" or 5/32" 7018ac rod at around 160-180 amp, Cat used to recommend 6011 but I wouldn't use it for temporary strength
Last edit: 1 month 3 weeks ago by Rome K/G.

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1 month 3 weeks ago #239627 by kittyman1
-for an amateur/ beginner level welder i would use 7018 rod with a DC welder, reverse polarity (personally dislike AC=horrific)
- i find 1/8" 7018 the easiest/ most common rod to burn and apply.
- probably start in the 125 to 140 amp range(depends on the unit)....and as your skill improves you may turn it up a bit
-cleanliness helps immensely, no oil, grease, paint, rust, scale, etc...

Greatest Lie told to mankind: just give us 2 weeks to flatten the curve!

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1 month 3 weeks ago #239628 by neil
Thanks team. Whether I post pictures depends on .... ; )

Cheers,
Neil

Pittsford, NY

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1 month 3 weeks ago #239633 by trainzkid88
you can also do it with standard 0.9mm(30thou) mig wire as it is a lower hydrogen content anyway. yes you can get true hydrogen controlled wire but not worth it for a temporary job.
and take it slow do a pass and move to the next tooth and work your way around you dont want to fully weld one tooth at a time can create over heating and forming cracks and yes preheat the sprocket teeth. its better to work on say three teeth at a time this helps spread the heat.

save gas and time buy a proper rose bud heating tip oxy-lpg is better than oxy acetlyene for heating. i see people using a cutting attachment to heat stuff, wrong way to go use a proper heating tip you use less gas get a more even heat and it heats quicker. heating tips for heating cutting tips for cutting welding tips for welding.

a gentle post heat wouldnt go astray either to help normalise the steel
as for amperage and polarity use the electrode manufacturers recommendation for that electrode starting in the middle of that range. and yes a dc machine is always better than ac and the inverter units available now for the price why wouldn't you buy one. just watch your duty cycle(how long your passes are) some machines have a very short duty cycle and can overheat easily. particularly the cheaper models.

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1 month 3 weeks ago #239638 by Wombat
If this is just to move the machine and not work, I wouldn't go to much trouble, just get some mild steel !/2" rod and cut to width of sprocket and run a low hydrogen bead each side. I built up sprockets with 3/4" and run low hydrogen weld to fill in and build up the sprocket root a bit, they lasted for 500 hours or more, never pre heated or anything fancy.

Regards, Wombat

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1 month 3 weeks ago - 1 month 3 weeks ago #239641 by neil
That's a great idea Neil, that would save a bit of time and some rods. I could just pick up some rebar for the job. To be clear though, it's the tooth tips that are worn down that's causing them to slip on the chains, not the tooth roots. The tooth tips are too short and rounded off to be able to "grip" the chain bushings

Cheers,
Neil

Pittsford, NY
Last edit: 1 month 3 weeks ago by neil. Reason: spelling

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1 month 3 weeks ago - 1 month 3 weeks ago #239642 by Deas Plant.
Hi, Neil.
If my guess is right, what Wombat has suggested will work as he is suggesting building up the teeth a quick, easy and cheap way. I have never done it but I have heard of it being done to get a job finished when sprocket teeth and pins and bushings are worn to about 200%(???????????????????) - - - like one time when I had to reverse a Cat 943 track loader onto a rear loading low bed ' coz it just plain would not drive forward on one track, the sprocket teeth were so worn.

I suspect that the rebar would be better than the mild steel round bar too as I think it is higher quality steel. If you put pretty heavy tacks on all 4 corners of each piece of bar on about 3 teeth atta time and then go back and full weld each of them in turn, the heavy tacks will help to pre-heat the tooth and the bar a little. You can even keep on adding tacked on pieces of bar ahead of where you are full welding - weld one, tack one - to help with the pre-heating/warming.

But do it BEFORE your 'radical' winter cold. LOL.

Just my 0.02.

You have a wonderful day. Best wishes. Deas Plant.
Last edit: 1 month 3 weeks ago by Deas Plant..

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1 month 3 weeks ago #239660 by trainzkid88
yes wombat's idea could work well and be less work you used to be able to get barstock to do the same thing to grousers and get a second life from them. a bit of medium tensile bar would be the best. and with round you have a nice natural vee to fill with weld.

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1 month 3 weeks ago #239681 by PhilC
I have seen many sprockets built up using round bar and low hydrogen rods and no preheat what so ever. Not once have I seen a crack from this process.
Now if you take into consideration Niels statement that he only wants to make the machine mobile enough to "move itself around" then a piece of 1/2" round bar welded to the tip with a run each side would be more than strong enough to make the machine mobile.

944A - Machine SN 43A2589 Engine SN 90A284
955K- Machine SN 71J3772 Engine SN 83Z0704
D6 SN's 4R732sp, 5R2724, 5R4832
D8 SN's 15A1254, 15A2287, 15A2723

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