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New member considering saving a mid-50's D6-U for future homestead work

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1 year 2 months ago #251330 by db1234
Hi, 

New member here located in NW Georgia.

We have a small 30ac hobby farm, and are planning to purchase a much larger homestead in the next 5 years, est 300ac or so.

While I wait for the right property, I realize we'll have a lot of clearing to do when we'll get there. 

I stumbled on a 1953-54 D6U for sale not too far from me. #9U18082

I'm here to learn and would really like to hear opinions on whether it would be a good idea to restore and use for future land clearing. 

The details from the seller: 
  • Ran last 6-8 years ago
  • Pony motor has an issue (something about magnetos not touching)
  • There appears to be antifreeze in the oil (can see antifreeze on oil dipstick)
  • Left side undercarriage newer than the right side (was replaced at some point)
  • Right side undercarriage is 5/10 (not clear on the ability for seller to judge this)
  • Pony motor exhaust was left open and has water in it
I've spoken with the seller a little and seems he's basically wanting scrap value for it. I'm currently trying to figure out shipping cost (approx 150 miles). 

From what I can research, a range of weight for this should be between 17,000 and 22,000 lbs. The shippers I've spoken with are getting confused as newer D6's are around 38,000 lbs.

For those more experienced on the board, is this a good machine for me to take the next few years to slowly restore and then put to work clearing acres of land? 

I don't mind learning as I go and getting it fixed right, I do have some concerns on parts availability. To be clear, I'd be restoring this to work and not as a hobby or collection piece. 

Thanks in advance.

 
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1 year 2 months ago - 1 year 2 months ago #251332 by Rome K/G
Clearing trees is very hard on these old hand clutch machines, strain on the clutch and drivetrain, blade push braces break or crack, and strain the hydraulics. Newer powershift tractors are built heavier. But if it's just small brush and take your time you might be ok. That coolant in the oil is a red flag! It could open a can of worms and can turn into a money pit in a hurry.
Last edit: 1 year 2 months ago by Rome K/G.

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1 year 2 months ago #251334 by thistlemagnate
Even if you don't get it, worth going over thoroughly to get in practice for the next good deal.
Agree on coolant in the oil, big red flag. Any idea why? Could be a bad gasket somewhere, or could be a cracked block.
Just sold my beloved 1994 Toyota Hilux for essentially scrap value (with full disclosure) last month after finding coolant in the engine oil. At 300k miles the timing chain apparently wore through the housing. Cost to repair was more than the vehicle was worth.
Not sure what's meant by "magnetos not touching", should be one magneto, dirty points not touching is a common problem. Magneto can be rebuilt or swapped out rather easily.
A relatively big machine, think about how hard to move it from a remote location if you need somebody else to work on it.
Maybe pull the plugs, see if evidence of water in the pony engine.
If it's been sitting out in the rain, pull the oil drain plugs briefly all around, see how much water comes out.

A blasting license might be more fun, unfortunately much harder to aquire.

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1 year 2 months ago #251335 by ChuckC
Keep shopping. If you enjoy working on old equipment and have a talent for it than go for it. I find that buying a more expensive machine that is in good operating condition may be a less expensive option in the long run. It is your choice. Good luck with whatever you do. I like when the old machines are brought back to life.

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1 year 2 months ago #251336 by thistlemagnate
In addition to the points, the magneto assembly also has a distributor. Magneto sparks once each rev of the pony motor crankshaft, giving the spark to each side in turn. "Not touching" may refer to something in the distributor. Magneto trouble is not a killer issue. A possible cracked block is.

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1 year 2 months ago #251338 by Kurt Bangert
I agree with ChuckC - Everything on these machines is heavy and take more than a good set of hand tools to really get into. Taking it to a shop will get expensive very quickly and make an operational unit look like the bargain of the century. We are all for getting these old gals going again, but know what you are getting into. If you haven't seen Pacific Northwest Hillbilly's series on YouTube rebuilding a D4, I would highly recommend it as you can see all the things you need to think about. Keep in mind, D4 components are much more manageable that D6 components. What we cannot know is your skill level, how much fun you have wrenching, and the kinds of equipment you have available to you. All those things could change our advice.

D4 D 78A 6678
D4 6U 1139
RD4 4G223W
D2 5U 1164
JD 350B
JD 420C

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1 year 2 months ago #251340 by kittyman1
agree with ChuckC as well, i think he nailed it
-better off starting with a running machine, and maybe a little bigger if you want to clear land

always dropping GOLD, all you have to do is just pick it UP !

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1 year 2 months ago #251344 by db1234
Thanks everyone for weighing in.

I think the possible block crack makes this too high a risk for me at this time.

Also, not having an immediate use means I'm tying up capital in this where I could better use it elsewhere.

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1 year 2 months ago #251345 by neil
If you end up with a similar model, you could buy this one as a parts machine

Cheers,
Neil

Pittsford, NY

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1 year 2 months ago #251348 by Ray54
The undercarriage would be of much more concern to me than the engine. The most common ways they leak water into oil is the o rings on the sleeves, rust pin holes in sleeves or per combustion chambers rusting or the gasket of chambers leaking. Since you say anti freeze and not water and your location being warmer hard to believe the block is cracked. Parts to fix all the troubles I have spoken of are available. As for the pony, this machine would be a prim candite to put a direct electric starter on it. By serial number it should have the hole to just bolt starter on as well as wet clutch. The wet clutch on this model can be slipped all day long on a dozer and not eat it away. I have had several apart the fiction surface has always been good. They wear teeth out that drive it if from the flywheel, never the friction surface.


So if you are a fix it yourself guy it could a be good deal yet. But if oil just pores out of the final drives that also could be a deal breaker, that is a job that needs real pulling tools( up to a 100 tons). Of course the size of the trees you want to take on also becomes a issue. If you have time to dig roots out it can take quit a big tree, but do you want to spend the time.

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