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Pony Engine Drain Cocks

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16 years 10 months ago #2306 by GOTSLOCO
The pony engine drain cocks, PT NO. 3B-9067, on the D4-5t I just purchased and had delivered are in need of replacement. I ordered new cocks and picked them up at CAT in Salinas Friday. Today I attempted to install them. They don't fit. The new cocks are made from a section of 21mm(.827in) hex stock(made in Italy) with a big plastic handle. The 21mm is about the same width as the relief in the head making it such that the threads hardly engage before the hex hits the head.

The original drain cocks look similar to a no.6 air cock from Essex Brass.
www.essexbrass.com/airc2.htm
or
Mcmaster-Carr 4793K64

Has any one used either of these or have ideas for another source?

Geoff Tobin
TEN
D4-5t

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16 years 10 months ago #2310 by SJ
Replied by SJ on topic Drain Cocks
Sounds like a real Mickey Mouse set of drain cocks you got. I,m sure someone on here would have a used pair to sell so put a request over on the wanted-for sale site & see what happens.Maybe even at a hardware store they might have something you could use as they are nothing special.

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16 years 10 months ago #2312 by ccjersey
Replied by ccjersey on topic Pony Engine Drain Cocks
Those would be the OSHA approved ones:D Especially safe because they won't work.

D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare time:D

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16 years 10 months ago #2313 by tomseabee
Replied by tomseabee on topic Pony Engine Drain Cocks
The Essex valve cocks look like the ticket if the thread size is standard on the Cat (does someone know for sure?).

I haven't had much luck on standard thread sizes with D2 pony fuel fittings. They aren't standard size (close but no cigar) and you can screw up more than the fitting if you force it. Cat sells them at $10.21 :eek: each but unless you have the time to play with some stock on the lathe, it's the only way to upgrade a rounded tubing nut.

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16 years 10 months ago #2314 by bernie
Replied by bernie on topic Pony Engine Drain Cocks
NAPA has them-they are brass. I will try to get to the old website, Old Magnet posted a site where they can be ordered aftermarket.

bernie

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16 years 10 months ago #2318 by Old Magnet
Replied by Old Magnet on topic Pony Engine Drain Cocks
The McMaster-Carr #4793K64 drain cocks work great. $5.16 ea.

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16 years 10 months ago #2319 by Old Magnet
Replied by Old Magnet on topic Pony Engine Drain Cocks
Info off the BB:

www.carbsonly.com - BFIC Inc. Zenith carb kits about $40

On the Pony carb kit, if you have the Zenith #5F3527, you can get a gasket set from the John Deere folks for a mere $18.00 Part number is RE528699.

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16 years 10 months ago #2321 by Joel59
Replied by Joel59 on topic Pony Engine Drain Cocks
Old Magnet,

Does that shut off cock work for the D6-9U also? Do you have the pony carb rebuild kit part # for the D6-9U? Thanks

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16 years 10 months ago #2322 by Old Magnet
Replied by Old Magnet on topic Pony Engine Drain Cocks
Yes, same drain cock for the D6.
On the carb kit, get the Zenith carb number and contact the same source as in the above post. I don't have the carb kit number, or at least I can't find it.:(

Found some more info:
The D6 Zenith carb model is a 22AXB. You will need to also know the Cat carb part number to get the right kit.

The D2/4 Zenith carb model is a TU4C and also needs the Cat carb part number to get the right kit.

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16 years 10 months ago #2335 by alan627b
Replied by alan627b on topic Zenith Model TU4C
Joel, my DW10 (D318) and D2 (D311) use the same basic Zenith TU4C carb, there is a small round metal tag riveted to the top of the float bowl, which has the numbers you need. The folks at BFIC will tell you what kit it takes, and that kit covers most of the variations in the Zenith carb these units use.
I think they pretty much all use the same kit, until you get a D7 or larger, which uses a different pony, and a bigger carb...
Oh yeah, the number is...
Kit number Zenith #K2067
About $35 last time I got one.
It really helps clean up if you bead blast everything, after soaking in a good carb cleaner pail. Get the stuff that kills trees on contact, not the "non-chlorinated " stuff, but use caution, it stings...And paint the iron main body the color of your choice, cuz' it's iron and will rust shortly. I use cast blast, but have also seen them in cat yellow.
Clean every passage, I drilled out the soft lead plugs, cleaned out everything, then re-sealed them with JB weld before painting. If the small jet at the bottom of the fuel well won't come out, don't force it! Just try and find a replacement...
I got new brass screws at the hardware store for re-assembly, and studs instead of bolts for the float bowl to main body. You will learn a few new swear words trying to get the carb off in the first place, a "1/2"(?) wrench
bent with the tightest 90 bend you can helps get the hold down nuts off...
And when you put it back together, Neverseize everything as there isn't much room to get at the adjustments, more fun if they bind....good luck!
alan627b

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