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Restoring a 1946 Cat D6 5R
Restoring a 1946 Cat D6 5R
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2 months 1 week ago #260299
by neil
Those measurements are on a new, tight machine. You most likely have worn linkages meaning the clutch levers will travel more distance to achieve the same result. At some point, the wear can be great enough that adjustment cannot be made effectively - you can go for fully disengaged but then slipping, or fully engaged but not disengaging (enough).
For bleeding, start at the source (the tank) and work your way forward methodically. Then go back and check again. If you have any new air after bleeding, then you have a leak somewhere. If it's between the tank and the fuel transfer pump, then you'll likely see the leak externally. If it's between the transfer pump and the injection pumps, then you might have worn components and leaking o-rings (usual reason on old tractors is that the seals lose elasticity and no longer effectively seal). Leaks after the injection pumps would be evident, other than if you have a defective injection valve that lets combustion pressure back into the injection lines - not that uncommon. So work though methodically until you identify the problem.
Cheers,
Neil
Pittsford, NY
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2 months 1 week ago #260304
by JPiper
Thanks Ray54!
I'll look in the toolbox for that wrench, but I'm not sure it's there. Based on pictures that I've seen, the rope might be original, though I don't know how it could be in such good condition!
There's a spring-mounted bolt that locks the throttle out when it's all the way forward, and I had the bolt set. But something is off with the throttle linkage (it rubs on the housing for the pinion engage lever and the starting clutch) - so maybe that has something to do with it.
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2 months 5 days ago #260349
by JPiper
Neil - thanks for the info. Before I changed the fuel filter the machine was starting easily. Once I get the injection pump vent wrench I will go through the system step by step again, and hopefully that will take care of it! Unfortunately the wrench won't get to the tractor shop until this coming Friday. I also ordered replacement gaskets for the steering clutch compartments, and replacement gasket rings for the final drive fill plugs.
This past Friday was kind of a lost day. The wrench I need is not in the tool box. Looking around the property, I found a pry bar which could conceivably have been the original Cat one. I put that into the D6 tool box. But none of the other original Cat wrenches/tools.
I plan to go up tomorrow and service the diesel air cleaner. Depending on time, may try to adjust the right steering clutch. But likely won't be starting the machine again until this Friday or Thanksgiving week.
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2 months 4 days ago - 2 months 4 days ago #260366
by JPiper
Serviced the air cleaner today. It was worse than it looked initially - thick sludge in the bottom of the bowl. But now all the screens and the bowl are clean, and it has fresh oil!
I realized, the poison oak infested D2 might have the injector pump wrench in its toolbox. Will check later this week.
eta: Comparing the parts book and the machine, I'm missing 8B340 (adapter), 8B342 (pipe), and 8B319 (air cleaner assembly). It looks like the machine was modified to add a second 8B347 bracket, with an aluminum plate across the two 8B347's, and the pony fuel bowl 3B8830 is mounted to one of the 8B347's rather than being suspended by a metal pipe from the fuel tank. I think this was done to facilitate adding an inline fuel filter (the machine has one that looks to be from a riding mower), with a flexible hose.
Really perplexed by what became of the original air cleaner...
Last edit: 2 months 4 days ago by
JPiper. Reason: udpate
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2 months 4 days ago #260367
by rhartwick
There was a thread on sources for the bleeder wrenches a few months ago. Search for "Fuel pump bleed wrench" and you'll see it. You can buy a 3/8" or 1/4" socket to fit the oval shaped bleeder valve without too much trouble.
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2 months 3 days ago #260385
by D4Jim
There was a thread on sources for the bleeder wrenches a few months ago. Search for "Fuel pump bleed wrench" and you'll see it. You can buy a 3/8" or 1/4" socket to fit the oval shaped bleeder valve without too much trouble.
Good info from rhartwick. Sometimes they refer to it as a (Double D oval) socket
ACMOC Member 27 years
D47U 1950 #10164
Cat 112 1949 #3U1457
Cat 40 Scraper #1W-5494
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1 month 4 weeks ago - 1 month 4 weeks ago #260495
by JPiper
I cannot remember if there are any differences between the 4r, 5r, and the 8u 9u, since it is 30 years since I was on a 4r. You will need the hood off but on 9u, the pony governor was not right adding bit of oil to the governor fixed it.
Ray - thanks for this tip about the governor. After reading this, I noticed that the service manual mentions filling the governor with oil. Squatch also demonstrates adding the oil in this video:
You would indeed need to remove the hood, and likely the dash as well.
Last edit: 1 month 4 weeks ago by
JPiper. Reason: fix link, fix formatting
The following user(s) said Thank You:
Busso20
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1 month 4 weeks ago #260502
by neil
I had both my governors apart to clean them up and in addition to putting oil in the pulley screw, I also put it in the rear cover as it was hard to see how the oil could migrate back there quickly. Added benefit I think is that it reduces hunting
Cheers,
Neil
Pittsford, NY
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Restoring a 1946 Cat D6 5R
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