If the drain plugs were all in place and it was still empty of water, sometimes that's a clue...

Cracks in block between push rods and piston liner. (freeze crack) Pony head cracked also. Does anyone have any sugestions? Looked at belzona and LOCK-N-STITCH. I still have to pull the pistons and liners first. One headgasket looked bad also. Also why when it was runing did it not wont to shut down? had to use compression release to kill the engine. I will try to have pic when all tore down. thank you guys for all your wisdom. phillip

"Jack" wrote:

If the drain plugs were all in place and it was still empty of water, sometimes that's a clue...

the drain plugs were out after the fact and oil looked good little high. i love this stuff its a chalenge:jaw:

I would say find a good running engine at this point. Not that you can't do some kind of patch on it, but the time and "effort" ($$) put into disassembly, a patch, and then reassembly/overhaul could be spent on other things that will last.

If you want to know you have a good engine, then find a block and build it yourself. "Good runners" sometimes have hidden problems that can come back to bite you!

The governor can be just worn linkage between the lever by the seat and the one down on the engine. Or someone may have changed the adjustment on the idle so it cannot be shut down any longer. Probably not a big problem to fix it, just adjusting by the book etc.

just a update. I found the cracks in the block 4 of them. this is what I have done to repair this engine. 1st and always read the servicemen's reference books. 2nd do what it said. r&r hood, blade, drain oil, radiator, oil cooler,oil cooler lines, grill, metal plates around engine, skid plate, main tracks spring, heads, air filter, pony head, water lines, lift frame/engine up to remove oil pan, rods and pistons, and cylinder liners. 3rd pressure wash crud out of block, clean, protect and keep oil on crankshaft after each step. clean rust with acid and wash, grind and V where cracks are, weld cracks with mig welder then clean real good. heat clean to remove oils from metal where lab metal will be placed over and around welds. clean with solvent and tape up sealed surfaces to keep clean, mix to where you can brush on. bake on with heat lights and gun. then for added protection I primed with windshield primer and 3M ruberized windshield caulk. best way to put on is with gloves/hands smear it on all over. now I am ready to go back together. wish me luck.........................................

WOW, you've been busy!!!!
Not sure how those sealers will react with anti-freeze but worth a shot.

Were those cracks pretty straight or the spider web type?

The cracks where straight, here is drawing description. windo-weld is the best I know if used with primer.

Hello Phillipstanley

What type wire did you weld with, and whats lab metal is it a epoxy metal?

Best of luck.

boy, i wish i had your ambition, quite a project. hang in there.

Just got my 1947 Caterpillar D7 3t running strong has a few steering problems and my oil cooler is leaking but no water in the oil everything everything is running ok

problems are oil cooler has a leak, water pump leaks out the shaft and can not tighten up, and steers to the left great but the right forward will not steer but will steer right revese hard thinking something to do with the brake liner? any thoughts would be greatly appreciated . www.acmoc.org/bb/images/smilies/new/wave.gif