D7 3T VS RD7 and RD6 parts interchangeability?

daron,

not really sure if this will be helpful, but it has been for me...

here is a web site where you can put in the part number you are looking for and it will give you all of the interchangeable parts..

http://www.tpaktopc.net/cgi-bin/Cat_Part/Cat_Part.cgi?findPartNum=2k50

give a try and hopefully it will work out.

rod

RD6 and D73T pony motors are not interchangeable.


Matt

3T is totally diff engine but the Rd8 RD7 and Rd6 are the sane and all the stuff is interchangable thing like bearing pistons,liners, valves and the Rd6 uses just 1 of the RD8 head all the small gaskets Ect.

Thanks Rod, Matt, and Willie. I'm still seriously considering acquiring the NonOp 3T. I love the sound of big bore slow turning engines!

Willie- I still haven't had the Bootjack 30 running on its own. I've finally got the mag working ok (at least some of the time) and the firing order ok. I did somewhat clean the carb but could only get it to fire, when pulling it with my 8C20, when shooting gas into the intake with a squirt bottle. I later redisassembled the carb and found the main needle bushing loose. Corrected that, again blew out those various 'mystery passages' and reinstalled it. Haven't tried starting it again though. Too many projects, tasks, etc., too little time!

Thanks again, Daron

This wheel has a removable flange doesn't it? Never seen on that had enough drop in the center to put the tire on over the fixed flange.

I would try a backhoe or loader bucket. Probably can also use the grader blade for more precise pressure. Also helpful to remove all rust with a powered wire brush or side grinder before trying to put the tire on. Then grease it up with tire mounting soap and put in under the blade so you can push down right next to the rim and force the inside bead lip past the lock-ring groove which is probably what it's catching on. Don't go too far in one spot before spinning the wheel and pushing in another. Work your way around and it should go on. Once it's all the way past the lock-ring groove it should push on down just by standing on it.

Never had one of those big mammas' lock-ring come off, but had a 15" one come off one day. I was being cautious and it just flew across the yard, but that was just a little one. Every inch you are away from something like that can make a big difference in how bad you are hurt if it goes off! I also like to use chains around one, especially the tubeless ones where you have trouble getting it to seal up and inflate, so you're right there on top of it as it begins to move. We pack those leaky ones with tire grease to get them to begin to move and eventually seal up tight. The grease helps seal the bead and o-ring but it scares me to have it on the lock ring area, so we clean that off and lock the ring in there with the vise-grips.

Good luck!

daron,

not really sure if this will be helpful, but it has been for me...

here is a web site where you can put in the part number you are looking for and it will give you all of the interchangeable parts..

http://www.tpaktopc.net/cgi-bin/Cat_Part/Cat_Part.cgi?findPartNum=2k50

give a try and hopefully it will work out.

rod